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Thread: Nitrous 360 build

  1. #76
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    That will do it

    Mostly stock:
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    Way more mods to come

  2. #77
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  3. #78

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    Excellent. I knew it was something simple. 485 on spray.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    think we found the culprit. Looks like the crank sensor wires got pinched between the bellhousing and firewall (thus cutting all three wires). Putting in a new one today. Ill keep the update coming. Pics to come soon just need to upload them. What site does everyone use? all my phone pictures are too big.
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    after you upload it, copy and paste the bb code link into your post, and that's all you need to do


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  5. #80

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    Got the crank sensor swapped out... still no luck or spark. Im really at a loss for were else to look.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  6. #81

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Got the crank sensor swapped out... still no luck or spark. Im really at a loss for were else to look.
    Ah crap. You have a multi meter Slow that measures DC volts?

  7. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Got the crank sensor swapped out... still no luck or spark. Im really at a loss for were else to look.
    Ok, we'll figure this out. We'll work backward. You know you have no spark at the plugs. First, your coil wire is definitely inserted well into the distributor cap? 2. you have any spark at the coil?

  8. #83

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    could the problem possibley be it being timmed 180 off?


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  9. #84


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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    could the problem possibley be it being timmed 180 off?
    Absolutely.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    could the problem possibley be it being timmed 180 off?
    It will still show spark tho.

  11. #86

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    It will still show spark tho.
    See ive been told both ways that is its 180 off i will spark and ive also been told vice versa


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  12. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    See ive been told both ways that is its 180 off i will spark and ive also been told vice versa
    It can do both depending on the distance or how far the spark has to jump. You need to see if you have arcing within the distributor. If you have full arcing within the cap, you would have no spark at the plug. It is easy enough to see if you are out of phase. Either compression or exhaust tdc at no. 1, check to see if your rotor is pointing to no. 1 cylinder.
    I have seen cars actually "run" (though lousy) being 180* off and I have seen no spark at all at the plugs. Hopefully there is indeed a rotor under the cap. Don't laugh...I've made that mistake.

  13. #88
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    Well I meant at the coil. Which I do hope he has checked spark there first. But yes, with if the distributor it could be either one. Depends on the phasing.

  14. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Well I meant at the coil. Which I do hope he has checked spark there first. But yes, with if the distributor it could be either one. Depends on the phasing.
    He hasn't stated if he'd done so. Easy enough to check if after the coli. Put a plug into the distributor coil wire, ground the plug and if you have spark, you know you have current at the coil. Haven't looked at mine but are these 2 or 3 wire crank sensors because your next step is to check if you're getting 12 volts to the crank sensor where you'll need a multi meter. I'm wondering if you have sufficient inductance interruption where you might need to shim at the cs? I'm ahead of myself. Do the other stuff first.
    Last edited by arro222; 04-25-2017 at 11:46 PM.

  15. #90

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    So a little update on this project. Its been on the back burner for quite some time due to my and my wife getting married and buying out first house (shes all about this build and loves the truck). I got spark and got it started but still hav issues. I have it running but it refuses to rev over 2500 rpm. We drained the water and it ran slightly better but stil wont wrap out like it should. Its just reing really slow and not snappy at all. Almost like it has a really bad vacuum leak somewere. We are going to pull the heads and reseal them this weakened. Any other culprits you guys can think of?


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  16. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    So a little update on this project. Its been on the back burner for quite some time due to my and my wife getting married and buying out first house (shes all about this build and loves the truck). I got spark and got it started but still hav issues. I have it running but it refuses to rev over 2500 rpm. We drained the water and it ran slightly better but stil wont wrap out like it should. Its just reing really slow and not snappy at all. Almost like it has a really bad vacuum leak somewere. We are going to pull the heads and reseal them this weakened. Any other culprits you guys can think of?
    Come on man. Priorities. Get them straight

  17. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    So a little update on this project. Its been on the back burner for quite some time due to my and my wife getting married and buying out first house (shes all about this build and loves the truck). I got spark and got it started but still hav issues. I have it running but it refuses to rev over 2500 rpm. We drained the water and it ran slightly better but stil wont wrap out like it should. Its just reing really slow and not snappy at all. Almost like it has a really bad vacuum leak somewere. We are going to pull the heads and reseal them this weakened. Any other culprits you guys can think of?
    Do a compression check to make sure your valves are fully closing. How may turns at the rockers? Could be too tight. 1 and a half was all I could do even though two was recommended.

  18. #93

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    Yeah its running better now. Heads weren't sealing good so threw some new cometic head gaskets on. Runs much better but still need to set value lash with it running. thing runs pretty rough at idle.... its got a massive cam in it so no surprise there between that and old gas. Any tips on doing vale lash while its running? I set them all while it was off but was told that it also needs reset while its running? i have the stock valve covers and was going to cut the top out of them.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Any tips on doing vale lash while its running? I set them all while it was off but was told that it also needs reset while its running? i have the stock valve covers and was going to cut the top out of them.
    Are you running solid lifters?

  20. #95


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    I did the same thing years ago. Cut the top out of stock valve cover, oil still splattered everywhere, really a hassle. Check out the internet for good instructions. Comp lash adjust instructions.

    http://www.cpgnation.com/forum/threa...justment.1937/
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  21. #96




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    First fix the simple issues, old gas and your fuel sync is prolly way off, if no tune for the "hawg ass cam" then the factory pcm tune will hate your truck. Cometic headgasktes just need to be coated on both sides with copper coat gasket spray.

    I never set lash with it running, lifters should be all primed if you ran it already, just follow lash setting instruction sequence.
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  22. #97

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    yeah tune is not factory but its not exactly for this setup. Its just got some timing pulled for a 150 shot on stock heads with the pistons that are in it. Since that tune was put on the pcm ive done the stuff listed....Heads, intake, throttle body, ect. Need to get a hold of Ryan and have him send me something for my sct. valve lash was set according to what hughes wants done while its not running but there is a slight valve tick while running.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  23. #98

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    yeah tune is not factory but its not exactly for this setup. Its just got some timing pulled for a 150 shot on stock heads with the pistons that are in it. Since that tune was put on the pcm ive done the stuff listed....Heads, intake, throttle body, ect. Need to get a hold of Ryan and have him send me something for my sct. valve lash was set according to what hughes wants done while its not running but there is a slight valve tick while running.
    I've done all of that valve adjustment with the engine running in the past and today, it is totally unnecessary. You can easily adjust lash on a still engine and be perfectly fine as a matter of fact, it's best to check when the engine is cold. Cylinders heat up differently but "cold" is a constant.. The cam card recommendation should be regarded as a starting point if using a feeler gauge. Lash is a simple procedure and might best be done by "feel" anyway. Don't use the Hughes recommendation as gospel by any means. Lash adjustment can tell you a myriad of things before trouble starts. Adjust them in firing order so your engine is not turning as much.
    A couple-three things:
    1. Like Chad states, check your fuel sync as it may be the likely culprit. The cam spec should have little to do with your run capability.
    2. Do a compression check to see you are getting full valve action. This to me is the second most likely culprit.
    3. You may want to check lifter pre-load with the new gaskets if a marked difference of what you had in there.
    4. Concerning the tick, you may have a loose adjustment some place but it could also be a rocker hitting a valve cover baffle. I had 4 corner rockers hitting the baffles but instead of smashing the baffles away on the Mopar valve covers, I had the rockers machined to obtain clearance.
    5. You have any codes coming through that might start to give a clue? Don't worry if you have the P0351 and have MSD stuff in there. The two seem to correlate. The misfire codes of P300-304 etc. could be the cam and isn't something to be concerned about. I believe Ryan can write them off. But you may have other codes that can at least send you in a direction.
    Last edited by arro222; 11-15-2019 at 04:00 PM.

  24. #99

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    One other thing upon re-reading this thread. You say you have a "tune" in there now correct? Did you attempt to have it go back to factory set point and see how the truck would run?
    The reason I'm saying this is because my truck actually ran fine after I put it all back together. I inserted the tune that came with the SCT I received from Ryan and the truck ran shitty. Went back to initial settings and the truck ran fine. Ryan said its never right the first time and this was far from correct.
    I am an absolute dope as it comes to "electronics" as I never had to deal with them to "tune" a vehicle. I have no clue why my truck runs pretty good w/o a tune. Not perfect as I have a bog from 2nd-3rd but more than runnable. The truck did come with the "performance pcm" from Mopar. Don't know if that adds anything to the equation.
    I have MSD box and coil and all the other stuff you have with the exception of the cam. Mine is .521 lift with .216-.226 @ .50. 112 lsa. Truck swallowed that cam just fine and kinda kicking myself for not going with my first choice of .226-.234.
    At any rate, I can merely relate what happened to me and ignorant to the point that I can't tell you why.
    If you did all the basic stuff previously mentioned in this thread and it all checked out that A. You were not out of phase. B. You have fresh gas and correct sync. C. You have full valve closure with rockers not being torqued down too much with a compression check to prove this. D. Your valve train geometry is righteous and E. There are no wires crossed with full spark. All that's left is this freakin "tune" shit..

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