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Thread: The Go-Fast corrundrum

  1. #1

    Default The Go-Fast corrundrum

    I been going back and forth. Nitrous/supercharger. With heads, cam and intake, it goes pretty good. Not like I wanted...but pretty good. Why do think I want to have an 11 second truck? I mean I use the thing like a "truck". It's carried cement block, a washer, a refrigerator, lumber and ladders.
    Nitrous would be for the track. SC would be a constant power source. Both the sc and n2o would be hard on an engine. If I go to the track, it'll be maybe 2/3 times. It's 130 miles away. It still doesn't have a tune.

    I keep wondering if I should just let things be and skip the headaches of a power adder and just drive it and enjoy it for what it is. I might think differently tomorrow.

  2. #2
    SPelf's Avatar
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    I think a good tune to start with would probably drastically change the way it performs/drives with your current set up! Just my 2cents
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

    Acts 2:38

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    pat d's Avatar
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    Hey guys im thinking along the same lines, waiting on a tune myself right now got it with a nitrous flash just in case looking at torque storm supercharger after that anyone have a supercharger on there trucks

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Supercharger all day.
    Ran nitrous for a while on mine,but it got old filling bottles...
    Boost is always available.

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    99lowdakota's Avatar
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    I think a nice tune will do you good. If you want a SC dont use a torque storm they do not produce enough CFM to feed a magnum. A good one is a Vortech V3. Also if you go to a SC you will need a 300lph fuel pump, Deka 60's for fuel injectors, and a SRT4 Map sensor. A good quality SC set up that will last you a long time will cost you about 3-4k. If that is not what you want to spend on something like that i would say stick to a FRP tune and hit the bottle.
    99 RT Fully built 365


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    blackknight's Avatar
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    I’ve ran nitrous, but if I could find a supercharger that would be my next investment

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    99lowdakota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    I’ve ran nitrous, but if I could find a supercharger that would be my next investment
    Just go to a Turbo. its cheaper and makes more juice.
    99 RT Fully built 365


  8. #8
    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99lowdakota View Post
    Just go to a Turbo. its cheaper and makes more juice.
    ^^^^^This. Turbo for the win. Softest on engine. Easiest to turn power down and up.

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    99lowdakota's Avatar
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    If you can fab up your own hot side that just reduces the cost even further. but the easiest way to do it is to buy to driver side headers and run the driver header in a big U shape back into the passenger header then take the passenger header and put a Vband on the end of the header. then fab a merge and put the turbo on.
    99 RT Fully built 365


  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    ^^^^^This. Turbo for the win. Softest on engine. Easiest to turn power down and up.
    I am "new" to all this "boost" stuff. If there is something before "new" like "stupid", then I'm that as well.
    I would have thought that "turboing" would have been harder on the engine because you have exhaust gasses that are "hot" you are circulating. Heat kills no?


    Besides the cam I put in is not turbo conducive. Duration is less on the intake side on mine.
    Last edited by arro222; 09-28-2020 at 07:02 PM.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99lowdakota View Post
    If you can fab up your own hot side that just reduces the cost even further. but the easiest way to do it is to buy to driver side headers and run the driver header in a big U shape back into the passenger header then take the passenger header and put a Vband on the end of the header. then fab a merge and put the turbo on.

    I'm good with wood. Metal not so much. You make it sound simple and enticing..
    Also, I find the V3 Vortech you mention but it seems these kits are for the carbed LA engines. The other complete kits for the 5.9 magum are like $5500-$6000.

  12. #12
    99lowdakota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    I'm good with wood. Metal not so much. You make it sound simple and enticing..
    Also, I find the V3 Vortech you mention but it seems these kits are for the carbed LA engines. The other complete kits for the 5.9 magum are like $5500-$6000.
    yeah just have to watch they are not trying to sell you an air hat that has injectors in it. That is old school and now FRP can tune the truck without that. best is to fine a used one. Also if you havent put a cam in it for boost you might as well just stay nitrous. The cam is like your foundation for what you do with the truck.
    99 RT Fully built 365


  13. #13

    Duner's Avatar
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    And my vote is for boost of course....
    But I’ve been told I have that kind of “sickness”.
    Duner
    4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
    5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's

    1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99lowdakota View Post
    Also if you havent put a cam in it for boost you might as well just stay nitrous. The cam is like your foundation for what you do with the truck.
    I did. Cam for nitrous and a centrifugal s/c match up. Turbos work best with opposite numbers.

    The concern for a s/c I'm told, is that they are a bitch to tune and because of "bleed off", you actually lose low end, part throttle drivability. Secondly, I am told by an engine builder that the cam bearings in these engines suck and that boost will wipe them out in short order.

    I'm wondering if this is coming from ppl who have put a 108 lsa cam in for the "sound" and this fucks up their low end boost where it all is leaking out because of high overlap. Mine is at 112. I prolly should have gone 114.

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    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    I am "new" to all this "boost" stuff. If there is something before "new" like "stupid", then I'm that as well.
    I would have thought that "turboing" would have been harder on the engine because you have exhaust gasses that are "hot" you are circulating. Heat kills no?


    Besides the cam I put in is not turbo conducive. Duration is less on the intake side on mine.
    The exhaust is not recirculated. It just goes into the turbine to spin the turbo then exits the housing. And being that the boost can be so controlled and the exhaust side has a positive pressure in it, its not so violent on the pistons. Cam could be an issue but depending on the specs, its probably not 'that' bad. but It will take some fab work for sure. Shame your so far away. Ild love to make another hot side .

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    I did. Cam for nitrous and a centrifugal s/c match up. Turbos work best with opposite numbers.

    The concern for a s/c I'm told, is that they are a bitch to tune and because of "bleed off", you actually lose low end, part throttle drivability. Secondly, I am told by an engine builder that the cam bearings in these engines suck and that boost will wipe them out in short order.

    I'm wondering if this is coming from ppl who have put a 108 lsa cam in for the "sound" and this fucks up their low end boost where it all is leaking out because of high overlap. Mine is at 112. I prolly should have gone 114.
    yes turbo runs better at a higher duration like 112-114. if you are at 112 you would be just fine on turbo. And as far as tuning goes FRP AKA Ryan can tune anything and everything just fine without issues. As for boost wiping out cam bearings to my knowledge thats just not true. most the time what wipes out cam bearings is high spring load and or incorrect parts/ incorrect installation.

    and on a turbo exhaust in not circulated it. exhaust is still separate from the intake air. its just a more efficient way to make power. you actually want to keep your exhaust as hot as you can before it hits the turbo turbine because the hotter the air the more velocity it has and the faster it will spin the turbine.
    99 RT Fully built 365


  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99lowdakota View Post
    yes turbo runs better at a higher duration like 112-114. if you are at 112 you would be just fine on turbo. .
    My duration is .214-.226 @ .50. My lsa is 112. I am schooled in valve train sequence but I'm not gonna pretend I know shit about "boost" stuff. What I have researched is that turbos work best with a reverse split cam.

    Whatever I do, I don't want to ruin the streetability of the truck as it stands nor do I want the headaches of a diy snafu as it relates to this type of ancillary. I no longer have that kind of patience. It would be different if I knew what I was doing.
    Doing these kind of things just leads to an entire line of other stuff you need to do. For instance, I would never have figured you need an injector flow of 60 from the 24's I currently have for boost. How's that run on the street without choking itself?
    Then there's the fuel pump change.
    If a person is smart, he'd change out the tranny before they grenade the one they have as a result of the extra power.
    It's just a chain of one thing after another.
    Would a centrifugal even fit without changing to an electrical fan?

    I guess in hindsight and knowing how I'm wired, I should have just built a 10 to1 408 with stage II aluminum heads with a steeper cam and be content with mid to low twelves.
    It would have been n/a and gotten 8 miles to the gallon which I don't particularly care about as I am around 11 mpg now. It's a fun truck to drive plus I've put on 6000 miles in 4 years so I don't give a shit about gas mileage.
    Last edited by arro222; 09-29-2020 at 12:58 PM.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Shame your so far away. Ild love to make another hot side .
    Careful what you wish for niebs. As if you don't have enough to do with your current project. I can work myself up to a frustration point where driving to DE would be the easiest thing to do.

  19. #19
    99lowdakota's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    My duration is .214-.226 @ .50. My lsa is 112. I am schooled in valve train sequence but I'm not gonna pretend I know shit about "boost" stuff. What I have researched is that turbos work best with a reverse split cam.

    Whatever I do, I don't want to ruin the streetability of the truck as it stands nor do I want the headaches of a diy snafu as it relates to this type of ancillary. I no longer have that kind of patience. It would be different if I knew what I was doing.
    Doing these kind of things just leads to an entire line of other stuff you need to do. For instance, I would never have figured you need an injector flow of 60 from the 24's I currently have for boost. How's that run on the street without choking itself?
    Then there's the fuel pump change.
    If a person is smart, he'd change out the tranny before they grenade the one they have as a result of the extra power.
    It's just a chain of one thing after another.
    Would a centrifugal even fit without changing to an electrical fan?

    I guess in hindsight and knowing how I'm wired, I should have just built a 10 to1 408 with stage II aluminum heads with a steeper cam and be content with mid to low twelves.
    It would have been n/a and gotten 8 miles to the gallon which I don't particularly care about as I am around 11 mpg now. It's a fun truck to drive plus I've put on 6000 miles in 4 years so I don't give a shit about gas mileage.
    Normally yes a bigger intake duration is better as you can cram more air in. But it wouldnt kill that truck where you stand now. Is there a better cam; yes, but you can always change it later if you feel like your current cam is causing you to leave a lot of HP on the table. I honestly dont know too much about cam's, I called around and found someone who would build me a billet cam for my truck to exactly what I needed. But I know enough to know whats ok and bad for a combo.
    Secondly going to a turbo would not hurt your streetability at all. Lots of factory cars come with turbos these days. With the right setup thats nothing to worry about.
    Thirdly even if you were going to the SC you would need deka 60's those 24's dont flow enough to support boost. All the streetability is in the tune or converter for most people.
    Lastly if you really want to go boost this is what i would do as really no matter what you would want to do this stuff if you intend to try for anything over 400hp.
    1. fuel pump. no bigger than a 300lph is really necessary unless you are trying to go for broke
    2. mild built trans from Martin Saine.
    3. Tune through FRP and only FRP. cant stress that enough.
    4. M1 if you haven't already
    things to you can just kinda gather and add all at the same time.
    5. Injectors at least 60#'s but ask tuner for recommendation.
    6. a nice T6 frame 70-80mm turbo. You want the rear housing to be pretty big 1.1-1.32ar. You can ask a turbo supplier what to shoot for as they will know where the efficiency for that housing is. Your Hp goal is all dependent on this.
    7. Nice A-A front mount cooler.
    8. A nice velocity air hat or move to the 90 degree and a LS 90mm TB

    ik im forgetting some stuff but thats kinda the jist of it. and a 408 in a magnum is a waste of money these days. If you have the money for a 408 you have the money to put a Hemi in and that will serve you better than any 408.
    99 RT Fully built 365


  20. #20
    ZenDak's Avatar
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    BOOOOOST
    If it's your project car, have fun, or you'll always regret it!
    I bought my RT rather stock, with intentions of modding it. Years later, still mostly stock but I absolutely love it. (she's for sale here, but looks like I'm keeping her as my other truck is likely selling today, woohoo!)

    Recently needed more doors, and bought my first turbo charged car. Sweet Jesus, I love the boost.
    2.7 TT V6 AWD......Fusion! I know, I know, never in a million years, but damn this car runs (little brother to Taurus SHO, but just as fast). Been averaging under 15mpgs cause I can't keep my foot out of it.
    Blows the doors off the RT stock, and runs mid 12's with just a tune. There are several others breaking into 11's without extensive mods.

    I'm getting old I guess.
    Modding my daily driver, and keeping my 'project' truck stock.

    BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOST

  21. #21
    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    Careful what you wish for niebs. As if you don't have enough to do with your current project. I can work myself up to a frustration point where driving to DE would be the easiest thing to do.
    Ill warm up the tig .
    Youre right tho, I have a big project on my hands. Still waiting on a tube bender. Keep and eye open for a hossfeld #2 or jd2 model 32

  22. #22
    nitroram33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Ill warm up the tig .
    Youre right tho, I have a big project on my hands. Still waiting on a tube bender. Keep and eye open for a hossfeld #2 or jd2 model 32



  23. #23
    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post


    Nice!
    Im trying to find a decent deal on marketplace or such but they rarely come up for sale. Same with a hossfeld. Im getting impatient tho so ill probably buy new soon haha.

  24. #24
    nitroram33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Nice!
    Im trying to find a decent deal on marketplace or such but they rarely come up for sale. Same with a hossfeld. Im getting impatient tho so ill probably buy new soon haha.

    They occasionally have end of year sales, keep an eye on their social media stuff and you might save a bit.

  25. #25
    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post
    They occasionally have end of year sales, keep an eye on their social media stuff and you might save a bit.
    Great, thanks. I didnt even think about following them on Fb or anything

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