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Thread: User's 2001 RT build thread (update 12/29/2014) PROJECT ENDED

  1. #251
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    Stock gauge showed roughly standard oil pressures with the old pump, HV pump won't increase the pressure unless I change out the spring like said earlier. Higher pressure is only needed for loose clearances, from what I understand, and even then these motors run on only 7psi anyways, not to sure if extra pressure is even needed, don't want to start blowing shit out.


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  2. #252




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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Does running full grove mains affect pressure enough to require a HV pump or not? When I rebuild my crate motor I used full grove mains and the stock pump. The most pressure I will see when warm is 50psi and 20psi at idle. That's with brad penn 20w 50
    No, loose clearences and high rpms will need a HV pump, and by loose I mean like .0025"-.003" on rods and .003"-.0035" on mains. If you wanna turn 7K rpm and higher(I turn mine 8100) then a deep pan and HV pump will be needed also.
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  3. #253




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    Quote Originally Posted by User View Post
    Stock gauge showed roughly standard oil pressures with the old pump, HV pump won't increase the pressure unless I change out the spring like said earlier. Higher pressure is only needed for loose clearances, from what I understand, and even then these motors run on only 7psi anyways, not to sure if extra pressure is even needed, don't want to start blowing shit out.
    You shouldn't need any oil pressure increase, really a standard volume oil pump is all you need.
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  4. #254
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    You shouldn't need any oil pressure increase, really a standard volume oil pump is all you need.
    Yeah, figured. I have one laying in the shop, I'll just swap them out.


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  5. #255

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    Pussy
    Matt
    DRTC # 1163

  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by KotaRT View Post
    Pussy
    Mmm, yum.


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  7. #257
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    Everything has been buttoned up, damper and a few other things will go on later and she will be stabbed in. I have to get the final coat on and then clear it and she should be ready.

















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  8. #258
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    The motor looks awesome.
    Good choice of color.....black radiates heat from the motor the best.
    Whereas chrome will hold in the heat.
    Your problem isn't the problem. Your reaction is the problem.

    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=14597&dateline=143749  2005

  9. #259

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    Looking good! How many Dakota's can you have in one shop? LOL

  10. #260

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    Chris,
    Make sure the bolt holes on the heads where the motor grounds go are clean.

    if you painted them, clean them out with a tap.

    Don't ask me how I know this....

    Ed Morris
    11.17 @ 120.91 mph
    Best 60': 1.54

    DRTC # 578

  11. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Turbo View Post
    Chris,
    Make sure the bolt holes on the heads where the motor grounds go are clean.

    if you painted them, clean them out with a tap.

    Don't ask me how I know this....

    PLEASE make sure the grounds are clean!!!!!!!!!!!!! (Anyone at the Nats knows why I am stating this)
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

  12. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Turbo View Post
    Chris,
    Make sure the bolt holes on the heads where the motor grounds go are clean.

    if you painted them, clean them out with a tap.

    Don't ask me how I know this....
    Yeah, I know. all of that will be ground down for a clean ground connection. I hate electrical issues.


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  13. #263
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    Waiting on a few things to arrive, I relocated the PCM into the fender, no need to extend the harness, it was a pain in the ass to get it to fit, but the harness fits without extension.

    Got my longtubes in, passanger side doesn't fit, it's sitting on the upper control arm, I'm thinking about buying new upper control arms or C-notching the control arm to allow the pipe to fit through it, and not get dented when the arm moves.

    Finished painting the motor and stabbed her in the truck.













    Last edited by User; 10-19-2014 at 10:57 PM.


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  14. #264


    66shelby's Avatar
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    Not ceramic coating the headers?
    <a href=http://s663.photobucket.com/user/furmanator92/media/photo16_zpsfe30c10f.jpg.html target=_blank><img src=http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu355/furmanator92/photo16_zpsfe30c10f.jpg border=0 alt= /></a>

    Proud owner of a Ryan Tuned truck!

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by 66shelby View Post
    Not ceramic coating the headers?
    Yeah, I am. I was just testing the fitment first, and as speculated the passanager side doesn't fit due to my 3" drop in the front.

    So I have to come up with a game plan to keep my stance, while also allowing the header to fit without being dinged.

    Option #1 is running a set of upper Michigan metal control arms




    Option #2 - C-Notch the OEM control arm

    Option #3 - Bring front end up 2"


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  16. #266

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    What brand headers are those?

  17. #267


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    Ok gotcha!!
    That's what I was thinking. I would go for the Michigan arms or some sort of tubular arm if you can
    <a href=http://s663.photobucket.com/user/furmanator92/media/photo16_zpsfe30c10f.jpg.html target=_blank><img src=http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu355/furmanator92/photo16_zpsfe30c10f.jpg border=0 alt= /></a>

    Proud owner of a Ryan Tuned truck!

  18. #268


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    Quote Originally Posted by moneypit View Post
    What brand headers are those?
    Spintech
    <a href=http://s663.photobucket.com/user/furmanator92/media/photo16_zpsfe30c10f.jpg.html target=_blank><img src=http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu355/furmanator92/photo16_zpsfe30c10f.jpg border=0 alt= /></a>

    Proud owner of a Ryan Tuned truck!

  19. #269

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    1 3/4 primary?

  20. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by moneypit View Post
    1 3/4 primary?
    Yes.


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  21. #271

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    I believe mid mich arms are for airbags only.


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

  22. #272
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    I still have to call and speak to them about it, but for a track only truck I don't see a problem.


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  23. #273

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    How bad was it to relocate the PCM to the fender? I'm dreading doing this. But, seeing as the truck will be parked all winter inside, I can take my sweet ass time.

  24. #274
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    I'd say 2 hours? Taking breaks to make sure I didn't slit my wrists open. It's easier when the motor is out and you have room and slack on the harness.

    I forgot to mention I'm not running front lights, or fogs. The electric fan is all that I'm using on the front harness, so I was able to move the PCM further back. The PCM could possible reach all the way back to the firewall if you didn't have to run the front harness.

    Does anyone know if the truck will run with one harness unplugged from it?


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  25. #275
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    Truck is being sold to a local member, and will more than likely be converted into a show truck.

    If this person wants to come forward, feel free.

    /End project.


    DRTC #1064


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