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Thread: What did you do to your R/T today?

  1. #7851
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    Default Rear end day.

    Today I decided to look at my rear end. Had a Class 2 leak, so why not get it cleaned up. As the oil came out.. I prayed that the little glitter was the additive. No chunks of metal and I set a magnet in the oil for a bit and it came out clean. As i cleaned it up, I noticed a rainbow of silicone and it only appeared around the outside of the cover. Very little actually was between the two surfaces, I am assuming they mashed the bolts and put silicone around the outside.

    It was also painted a couple of times, I cleaned through yellow, black, gray, blue,. And then I stopped looking and I just scrubbed the hell out of it. Got it shiny, and continued the tradition of poorly painting it's. This time with gun metal, high temp chip resistant paint. We shall see how it lasts.

    Thanks

    I'll add pics later evidently. Android not liking the file manager.

    When pics are up, check out my oil, should I be worried about the pretty colors? Also, the internals look like stock? Couldn't find any identifying numbers as it sat. Is it even possible to ID it that way?

  2. #7852
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    Well not my 5.9 rt but the 8.3 Srt took a shit yesterday, I was cruising on the hwy, went to slow down for light, so I went to down shift to 4th and when I put the clutch in I heard a whistle/squeak sound and I looked down and oil pressure was dropping quick so I immediately shut it off and let it coast off the road, left the keys in it and hitched it back home, to get my other car, called the dealer and told them pick it up it’s broke again

  3. #7853

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    Nothing.

  4. #7854

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Well not my 5.9 rt but the 8.3 Srt took a shit yesterday, I was cruising on the hwy, went to slow down for light, so I went to down shift to 4th and when I put the clutch in I heard a whistle/squeak sound and I looked down and oil pressure was dropping quick so I immediately shut it off and let it coast off the road, left the keys in it and hitched it back home, to get my other car, called the dealer and told them pick it up it’s broke again
    That sucks Ernie, hope you got a warranty on that thing.
    408, HiPoTek, FRP Tuning, Martin Saine 46re
    12.33 @ 110
    2018 Renegade Raceway Summit Series Sportsman Champion

  5. #7855
    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Well not my 5.9 rt but the 8.3 Srt took a shit yesterday, I was cruising on the hwy, went to slow down for light, so I went to down shift to 4th and when I put the clutch in I heard a whistle/squeak sound and I looked down and oil pressure was dropping quick so I immediately shut it off and let it coast off the road, left the keys in it and hitched it back home, to get my other car, called the dealer and told them pick it up it’s broke again
    Have you had Dodge look up the repair history prior to your purchase of the truck?

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  6. #7856
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    I havnt, it’s the 3-4th time in a year that’s it’s broke! Fuckin sucks peepee

  7. #7857
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    Ordered a 6 puck disk for the R/T rather than using the fiber disk, should hold 795 ft lbs now rather than 620

    https://www.advancedclutch.com/produ...disc-6266320-2


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  8. #7858
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    Took the western chassis control arms with stock springs off. I replaced with stock control arms and Hotchkis 1912f springs.

    2012 Grand Cherokee Limited Wife's car - 4X4, Hemi
    2003 Dakota RT RC, Hughes intake and throttle body, D1SC Procharger, 5-speed
    2009 Challenger RT, 6-speed, sportlines, x-pipe, Dynatech mufflers.

  9. #7859

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    I gots to have mo'par-ts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dakotas View Post
    Took the western chassis control arms with stock springs off. I replaced with stock control arms and Hotchkis 1912f springs.
    Any noticeable difference in ride quality and/or ride height? I ask b/c cause I run the same old setup up front (WC drop arms & OE R/T coils), but also have 1912f springs currently on a shelf...
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  10. #7860


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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    I havnt, it’s the 3-4th time in a year that’s it’s broke! Fuckin sucks peepee
    Well, Damn Ernie! If you didn't have bad luck... you know the rest! Sorry to hear that... It's like you washed your hands of the R/T's issues and bought something else to have fun driving. Then it turns out to be PITA!
    99 DA CC R/T
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    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
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    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
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  11. #7861


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    want more inchs STROKE IT

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    Sorry to hear about your issues bud.
    Talked to my brother with the srt ram
    He said the gen3 viper motor is junk. He broke a piston when the truck was bone stock with 12,000 miles

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  12. #7862
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Any noticeable difference in ride quality and/or ride height? I ask b/c cause I run the same old setup up front (WC drop arms & OE R/T coils), but also have 1912f springs currently on a shelf...
    I don't have much feedback yet, as I only drove it about 10 miles so far. However, so far it does feel like the steering is tighter.

    I didn't put the rubber isolators in with the new springs, and the measurements were identical just off the jack and jack stands. I'm hoping with settling I will get the additional 1/2 to 3/4 inch more drop I was after.

    So far I'm happy and I will be driving my truck to work all week this week, so I should have a final measurement and more feedback by next weekend.

    2012 Grand Cherokee Limited Wife's car - 4X4, Hemi
    2003 Dakota RT RC, Hughes intake and throttle body, D1SC Procharger, 5-speed
    2009 Challenger RT, 6-speed, sportlines, x-pipe, Dynatech mufflers.

  13. #7863
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2dakotas View Post
    I don't have much feedback yet, as I only drove it about 10 miles so far. However, so far it does feel like the steering is tighter.

    I didn't put the rubber isolators in with the new springs, and the measurements were identical just off the jack and jack stands. I'm hoping with settling I will get the additional 1/2 to 3/4 inch more drop I was after.

    So far I'm happy and I will be driving my truck to work all week this week, so I should have a final measurement and more feedback by next weekend.
    What do you have to get your drop in the back? I'm about to install 1912f's too


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  14. #7864
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    What do you have to get your drop in the back? I'm about to install 1912f's too
    It's just 2" blocks right now. However I'm about to change to something else, as I hate blocks. They were on the truck when I got but I've never bothered to change them out yet, but I will soon.

    2012 Grand Cherokee Limited Wife's car - 4X4, Hemi
    2003 Dakota RT RC, Hughes intake and throttle body, D1SC Procharger, 5-speed
    2009 Challenger RT, 6-speed, sportlines, x-pipe, Dynatech mufflers.

  15. #7865
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    Quote Originally Posted by krs1r/t View Post
    Sorry to hear about your issues bud.
    Talked to my brother with the srt ram
    He said the gen3 viper motor is junk. He broke a piston when the truck was bone stock with 12,000 miles
    Seems like the trucks with low mileage have more issues than the ones with 90k plus miles on them

  16. #7866
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Well, Damn Ernie! If you didn't have bad luck... you know the rest! Sorry to hear that... It's like you washed your hands of the R/T's issues and bought something else to have fun driving. Then it turns out to be PITA!
    I bought it with the intentions of parking the Dakota and doing the suspension and tuning and towing it around to have fun, today I washed the R/T put it on jackstands, I’m gonna pull the trans out and fix that leak maybe go back to the 28-3000 stall and order a hipotek crossmember

  17. #7867

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    Serviced trans, changed plugs , cap & rotor, installed Canton plate & changed oil.
    408, HiPoTek, FRP Tuning, Martin Saine 46re
    12.33 @ 110
    2018 Renegade Raceway Summit Series Sportsman Champion

  18. #7868

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    My Grand Cherokee fan took a dump after 6 years.

    While shopping for another GC fan, found out the '04s have a 2 speed option.

    Installed it. I set the PCM to low speed and high speed to come on with a switch.

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
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  19. #7869
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    Quote Originally Posted by SynRG View Post
    My Grand Cherokee fan took a dump after 6 years.

    While shopping for another GC fan, found out the '04s have a 2 speed option.

    Installed it. I set the PCM to low speed and high speed to come on with a switch.
    Is it OK to energize both stages of the motor at the same time?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  20. #7870

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    Is it OK to energize both stages of the motor at the same time?
    Yeah, It's not like the Taurus fan.

    I tested both leads and each one runs at half speed. Fire the second and it ran at full speed.

    A LOT quieter now and still keeping cool.

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
    #1222

    r/DodgeDakota

  21. #7871

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    Put the battery back in it after not starting it since last fall, cranked it a few seconds and started up and idled great. Took it for a short ride and fell in love with it all over again.

  22. #7872
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    Quote Originally Posted by SynRG View Post
    Yeah, It's not like the Taurus fan.

    I tested both leads and each one runs at half speed. Fire the second and it ran at full speed.

    A LOT quieter now and still keeping cool.
    Oh right on! That's so much better. What brand did you use for a replacement? Or did you get a legit mopar one?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  23. #7873
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    Default Bumper Mod

    IMG_20180402_151238.jpg

    Attempted my own bumper mod today. Happy with it, about 80%. When I do it over (not if) I will pay more attention to the shape of the top of the bumper. I didn't think it through and just cut it straight across the top, not thinking that when I shortened the mounts - it would allow the bumper to follow the curve of the box.

    Tomorrow, A little sanding, some paint, and see where I want the exhaust to exit. Not sure if I want to just drill a hole in the bumper for the exhaust to exit - or if I want to half moon in the bottom and make it exit kinda like the rams.

  24. #7874
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeGolf View Post
    IMG_20180402_151238.jpg

    Attempted my own bumper mod today. Happy with it, about 80%. When I do it over (not if) I will pay more attention to the shape of the top of the bumper. I didn't think it through and just cut it straight across the top, not thinking that when I shortened the mounts - it would allow the bumper to follow the curve of the box.

    Tomorrow, A little sanding, some paint, and see where I want the exhaust to exit. Not sure if I want to just drill a hole in the bumper for the exhaust to exit - or if I want to half moon in the bottom and make it exit kinda like the rams.
    I dig it, keeps the truck look without sticking out like a boner in sweatpants.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  25. #7875
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    I dig it, keeps the truck look without sticking out like a boner in sweatpants.
    Made my day. And yeah.. .the bumper was just a little obtrusive.

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