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Thread: Tips on pulling the engine...to speed up process.

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    At this point, seeing what grapejuice did, I think I'll try taking the intake off. Then I'll be able to get the hook/chains down low to lift the engine out and clear things. I think I'll pull the elec fan, throw a board in there to protect rad and see if it'll work.

    I don't want to have to align body parts if I can avoid it. Tried that in the past and it was difficult at the time.
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

    '15 Granite Crystal Metallic SRT 392.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    At this point, seeing what grapejuice did, I think I'll try taking the intake off. Then I'll be able to get the hook/chains down low to lift the engine out and clear things. I think I'll pull the elec fan, throw a board in there to protect rad and see if it'll work.

    I don't want to have to align body parts if I can avoid it. Tried that in the past and it was difficult at the time.
    uggh,, I'm not looking forward to getting my front bumper realigned. I was supposed to get the gutter guard in the valance while it was off. I started w/ my beer keg on, and quickly removed it. I'll be leaving the M1 off till the engine is in. I'm going to use the old dizzy cap, and stock valve covers for install also.
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

    Complete part out 99 Durango w/ 5.9


  3. #53

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    im done with mine, pulled the motor last saturday, sunday got the new motor in, with 2-3 hrs for 3 days got everything done, today i tried to start but come to find out i had the distributor 180, got 40 miles on it so far.
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

  4. #54
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    I'm not seeing how one would get the distributor 180 out? Installing timing chain and not putting #1 at TDC when aligning the slot on the intermediate shaft to front intake bolt on driver's side?

    I did this on the 408, albeit carbed, and it fired right up with the wires in stock orientation on the cap. Missing something?

    I'm about to do this in the next week or so and want to make sure it goes smoothly. Gonna scribe a mark in the block and dist. base to keep the fuel sync real close to where it is now. +1 or 2
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

    '15 Granite Crystal Metallic SRT 392.

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    So here's a question I have.

    On the way out we turned the crank to gain access to each bolt that holds the flex plate onto the torque converter. The conv just slips on, couldn't I just put the flex plate and converter on the engine while it's on the hoist?
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

    Complete part out 99 Durango w/ 5.9


  6. #56

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ_Hythloday View Post
    So here's a question I have.

    On the way out we turned the crank to gain access to each bolt that holds the flex plate onto the torque converter. The conv just slips on, couldn't I just put the flex plate and converter on the engine while it's on the hoist?
    I don't think this would be a good idea, the converter does slip on but you have to turn it and will feel/hear it click a few times two or three, can't remember now. Also it should be pre-filled so that would be a mess. Another thing is it's pretty heavy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Last_in View Post
    I don't think this would be a good idea, the converter does slip on but you have to turn it and will feel/hear it click a few times two or three, can't remember now. Also it should be pre-filled so that would be a mess. Another thing is it's pretty heavy.
    Ok, sounds good. I was wondering if I needed to top it off w/ some ATF+4
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

    Complete part out 99 Durango w/ 5.9


  8. #58



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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ_Hythloday View Post
    So here's a question I have.

    On the way out we turned the crank to gain access to each bolt that holds the flex plate onto the torque converter. The conv just slips on, couldn't I just put the flex plate and converter on the engine while it's on the hoist?
    Flex plate yes, converter, no.

    Like Last In said, be sure the converter is all the way seated before you install the motor. Push in, turn, push in, turn, repeat until you feel it clunk into place, then push it all the way back against the case. Be sure to put a jack under the front of the transmission to help you line things up as you drop the motor in.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    I'm not seeing how one would get the distributor 180 out? Installing timing chain and not putting #1 at TDC when aligning the slot on the intermediate shaft to front intake bolt on driver's side?

    I did this on the 408, albeit carbed, and it fired right up with the wires in stock orientation on the cap. Missing something?

    I'm about to do this in the next week or so and want to make sure it goes smoothly. Gonna scribe a mark in the block and dist. base to keep the fuel sync real close to where it is now. +1 or 2
    The distributor drive is slotted, so it's easy to get it in 180 out and just as easy to lift up and correct it.
    There is a notch on the distributor body that lines up with the rotor tip, which sets the fuel sync to somewhere around zero. Be sure half shaft is clocked right in the oil pump though. It should point at the front, inside corner of the drivers side valve cover. Looking down on it, that should look about like 11 o clock/5:00 o clock.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    At this point, seeing what grapejuice did, I think I'll try taking the intake off. Then I'll be able to get the hook/chains down low to lift the engine out and clear things. I think I'll pull the elec fan, throw a board in there to protect rad and see if it'll work.

    I don't want to have to align body parts if I can avoid it. Tried that in the past and it was difficult at the time.
    You'll need to remove the cap/wires/rotor and the crank pulley. Also, the hood to firewall gasket that seals the hood off at the cowl. The hood will either have to be removed, or what I do is remove the bolts, put something under each rear edge to protect the paint, then strap the hood up past where the hinges would stop it.
    It's a tight squeeze, but it'll come out/go back in.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    Quote Originally Posted by grapejuice1998 View Post
    The distributor drive is slotted, so it's easy to get it in 180 out and just as easy to lift up and correct it.
    There is a notch on the distributor body that lines up with the rotor tip, which sets the fuel sync to somewhere around zero. Be sure half shaft is clocked right in the oil pump though. It should point at the front, inside corner of the drivers side valve cover. Looking down on it, that should look about like 11 o clock/5:00 o clock.
    I finished last week. I used a scribe to mark the block deeply with a casting parting line in the body of the dist to keep fuel sync correct before disassembly. Remembered from the 408 to line up with intake/valve cover bolt area...just got the rotor lined up with the tab sticking out from dist body. Fired right up.
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

    '15 Granite Crystal Metallic SRT 392.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    I finished last week. I used a scribe to mark the block deeply with a casting parting line in the body of the dist to keep fuel sync correct before disassembly. Remembered from the 408 to line up with intake/valve cover bolt area...just got the rotor lined up with the tab sticking out from dist body. Fired right up.
    That's a really good feeling when they fire right up and settle into a nice idle.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


  13. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by grapejuice1998 View Post
    That's a really good feeling when they fire right up and settle into a nice idle.

    sure is, then it runs for 3 minutes and goes boom !

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    Quote Originally Posted by Special Ed's R/T - Yaaaay View Post
    sure is, then it runs for 3 minutes and goes boom !
    My wife would KILL me. Literally. Not even kidding!
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

    Complete part out 99 Durango w/ 5.9


  15. #65

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    can someone make this thread a sticky? lots of good info esp for someone who hasnt done a motor swap.
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

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    Just curious, how exactly do you get the tranny bolts out? With a wrench reaching behind the engine, with a socket from underneath the truck? What is the best way you've found to do this? I basically have the grounds and dipstick on the back of the heads, the engine mounts, and the tranny bolts to remove at this point.

    Also, what do I need to do with the starter?
    My step mother legitimately thought you could raise boneless chickens.

    edit: she once to her taxes to a taxidermy shop...my hand to god, this woman is a moron

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1AmberR/T View Post
    Just curious, how exactly do you get the tranny bolts out? With a wrench reaching behind the engine, with a socket from underneath the truck? What is the best way you've found to do this? I basically have the grounds and dipstick on the back of the heads, the engine mounts, and the tranny bolts to remove at this point.

    Also, what do I need to do with the starter?
    It's a little of both honestly. I crawl under the truck and get the lower bolts with sockets/ extension/ universals. Then the top two bolts snag with a wrench in most cases.

  18. #68



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    Quote Originally Posted by 2k1AmberR/T View Post
    Just curious, how exactly do you get the tranny bolts out? With a wrench reaching behind the engine, with a socket from underneath the truck? What is the best way you've found to do this? I basically have the grounds and dipstick on the back of the heads, the engine mounts, and the tranny bolts to remove at this point.

    Also, what do I need to do with the starter?
    I slide the starter forward to the cross member and zip tie it there to hold it out of the way.

    As for the trans bolts, I have a lift so I use about a 6' extension and a wobble joint 9/16, but if you remove the intake you can reach them from up top real easy.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    14MM bolts I get from the top with a ratchet and standard socket. Bottom 16MM bolts from the bottom. You have to work by feel a little bit on the top bolts to get the socket on, but plenty of room to turn the ratchet. Starter pull the bolts, then unhook the power wire and put it wherever you want. Easier than trying to tie it up out of the way or anything. It's only one 13mm nut and a connector to unhook the starter.


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    FWIW, I have pulled my motor many times and have yet to remove any wiring from it. Just sayin.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    Here's a picture my empty engine bay, but you can plainly see where my starter ends up. I zip tie it to the transmission lines, so it hangs out of the way but it doesn't stress the wires running to it.
    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    To each their own. Just as easy to unhook the wires and set it off to the side.


  23. #73
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    I pulled my starter, most of the bolts I got from the bottom, getting them back in was a lot more work. I had to use the floor jack, a bottle jack, and several boards to manipulate the brackets to line up w/ the bell housing.
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

    Complete part out 99 Durango w/ 5.9


  24. #74
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    Cool stuff guys. I'll give it a shot today, we'll see what happens! I'm pretty...not excited about sitting out in a field in this cold ass weather. That's for sure.
    My step mother legitimately thought you could raise boneless chickens.

    edit: she once to her taxes to a taxidermy shop...my hand to god, this woman is a moron

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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ_Hythloday View Post
    I pulled my starter, most of the bolts I got from the bottom, getting them back in was a lot more work. I had to use the floor jack, a bottle jack, and several boards to manipulate the brackets to line up w/ the bell housing.
    What brackets couldn't you get lined up?? There are only two "brackets" that go from the motor mounts down to the bell housing. Just had mine off yesterday trying to pull the oil pan with the motor still in the truck. They come on and off easy as long as you don't torque down either bolt before you get both started. That's another tip. Don't completely torque down any of the bolts until you get most of them started in the threads.


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