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Thread: Tips on pulling the engine...to speed up process.

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    kota360's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=RJ_Hythloday;103504]I had the hood off and thought I could get it out w/ out removing the rad. Had a friend who replaced the motor in a dak helping. We punched a hole in the rad and I had to buy a new one.


    I have had my motor out at least 5 times and I've never had a problem like that. You just have to be careful.Ever since I have used a cherry picker and intake plate, I've never taken a hood off or a rad out.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

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    Quote Originally Posted by grapejuice1998 View Post
    OH! That reminds me!
    I use a 3/8" round metal dowel to span from the lower control arm bolts and under the front of the bell housing. Then I use a ratchet strap and cinch it tight. That way it holds the front of the transmission up where it needs to be.
    I can visualize the strap I think, but not the dowel. Haven't looked but can the straps go around both frame rails and back to the middle, hooked together, then ratcheted tight to keep the bellhousing up?
    The Dakota RT is gone... but not forgotten.

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  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by kota360 View Post

    I have had my motor out at least 5 times and I've never had a problem like that. You just have to be careful.Ever since I have used a cherry picker and intake plate, I've never taken a hood off or a rad out.
    So you have a plate that goes where the intake manifold goes, do the bolts for lifting go in the intake manifold bolt holes? How much does one of these cost? I'm planning on putting bolts in the heads to lift it, and leaving the intake manifold off until it's in the truck.
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

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    [QUOTE=kota360;103599]
    Quote Originally Posted by RJ_Hythloday View Post
    I had the hood off and thought I could get it out w/ out removing the rad. Had a friend who replaced the motor in a dak helping. We punched a hole in the rad and I had to buy a new one.


    I have had my motor out at least 5 times and I've never had a problem like that. You just have to be careful.Ever since I have used a cherry picker and intake plate, I've never taken a hood off or a rad out.
    Guess I'm used to moving sheets of plywood and drywall, but I pull the hood off to do anything in the engine bay, I hate the damn thing blocking the light and the grill hanging down sucks too. Just pull two of the nuts off the hinges, loosen the other two, lift up on the front, take the remaing two nuts off...Grab the hood, lift it up...Done. It's off now and I'm just re-wiring shit.

    Makes life easy....
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    kota360's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RJ_Hythloday View Post
    So you have a plate that goes where the intake manifold goes, do the bolts for lifting go in the intake manifold bolt holes? How much does one of these cost? I'm planning on putting bolts in the heads to lift it, and leaving the intake manifold off until it's in the truck.
    The plate goes on in place of the throttle body. Here is the link to buy one from Summit:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1015/
    You just have to re-drill the holes to fit the throttle body bolt pattern. Use an old throttle body gasket. Then use the same gasket between the plate and the intake.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  6. #31
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    [QUOTE=Adobedude;103628]
    Quote Originally Posted by kota360 View Post

    Guess I'm used to moving sheets of plywood and drywall, but I pull the hood off to do anything in the engine bay, I hate the damn thing blocking the light and the grill hanging down sucks too. Just pull two of the nuts off the hinges, loosen the other two, lift up on the front, take the remaing two nuts off...Grab the hood, lift it up...Done. It's off now and I'm just re-wiring shit.

    Makes life easy....
    Your not using a stock hood though, is it cf of fg? I managed, but help would have made it a little easier, I was afraid of dropping it, or having it swing and fall while getting the last two bolts out.
    360 ,52mm F&B, M1, EQ heads bronze valve liners, mpp valve train, KRC Custom Ground Cam, Crower 1.7's, PPH midlength, SCT Hemifever tuning, LM-2, 2 1/2" duals

    EQ heads

    Complete part out 99 Durango w/ 5.9


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    I believe he has a stock steel hood with a hood scoop added. David is just an animal! He probably stuck his head through the hood scoop hole and walked it out of the truck wearing it like a hat.


    Nolan
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    [QUOTE=RJ_Hythloday;103649]
    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Your not using a stock hood though, is it cf of fg? I managed, but help would have made it a little easier, I was afraid of dropping it, or having it swing and fall while getting the last two bolts out.
    Stock hood, just has a hood scoop on it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nolan View Post
    I believe he has a stock steel hood with a hood scoop added. David is just an animal! He probably stuck his head through the hood scoop hole and walked it out of the truck wearing it like a hat.


    Nolan
    Bingo...LOL

    I do use my head to support it, gotta use it for something.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  10. #35

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    Alot of great ideas and methods already covered. I do sugest getting the fuel line removal tool for the fuel rails and of course release the fuel pressure from the rail before removing. The starter bolts always seemed to be a pain and getting behind the inspection cover. Protecting the rad with cardboard and removing the lower pulley gave just enough room to pull the engine. Absolutely remove cps and don't bend it. Electrical was easy except for the ground straps behind the head. When reinstalling get the leveling setup. I have removed my hood every time. Overall not a tough project.

    Mike,

  11. #36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Electrical Tech View Post
    Alot of great ideas and methods already covered. I do sugest getting the fuel line removal tool for the fuel rails and of course release the fuel pressure from the rail before removing. The starter bolts always seemed to be a pain and getting behind the inspection cover. Protecting the rad with cardboard and removing the lower pulley gave just enough room to pull the engine. Absolutely remove cps and don't bend it. Electrical was easy except for the ground straps behind the head. When reinstalling get the leveling setup. I have removed my hood every time. Overall not a tough project.

    Mike,
    All I have ever used for the quick-disconnect on the fuel line is the little screw-on part of an rtv silicone tube. I just cut it down to be only about 1/2" from where the threads start and slice it so I can spread it open. Works like a charm.
    Duner
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  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    All I have ever used for the quick-disconnect on the fuel line is the little screw-on part of an rtv silicone tube. I just cut it down to be only about 1/2" from where the threads start and slice it so I can spread it open. Works like a charm.
    Awesome idea
    Thats the type of tips-n-tricks I like to learn

    Drops panties faster than any R/T

  13. #38

    DRTC #311

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    Quote Originally Posted by kota360 View Post
    The plate goes on in place of the throttle body. Here is the link to buy one from Summit:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1015/
    You just have to re-drill the holes to fit the throttle body bolt pattern. Use an old throttle body gasket. Then use the same gasket between the plate and the intake.
    i can't remember where, so i cant quote it- but i remember reading somewhere in bold type to never lift the engine with one of those... not sure why, people been doing it for years. i use chains, on the heads personally.

    pete

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    I can visualize the strap I think, but not the dowel. Haven't looked but can the straps go around both frame rails and back to the middle, hooked together, then ratcheted tight to keep the bellhousing up?
    The round dowel spans side to side, where the bolts stick out of the back side of the lower control arms.
    The straps; I put the round part that attaches the hook to the strap, over the end of the dowel on each end, then that cinches it down so it won't move. I wish I had a picture to post, but I don't.
    EDIT:
    This may give you the idea. It's as close as I can get.
    Last edited by grapejuice1998; 03-30-2010 at 12:06 AM.
    Alan Short
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    This is a wider shot that shows how little I take loose to pull a motor.

    Alan Short
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    I even leave the hood on it, but I do unbolt it and strap it up higher.

    Alan Short
    D.R.T.C. #15


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    Alan Short
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete102580 View Post
    i can't remember where, so i cant quote it- but i remember reading somewhere in bold type to never lift the engine with one of those... not sure why, people been doing it for years. i use chains, on the heads personally.

    pete
    I have heard that as well, as long as you have an aluminum intake. A cast iron intake can take it, but I wouldnt really trust four 1/4"-20 bolts in aluminum to hold a 500lb motor when it's bouncing on a cherry picker as you jack it up. I have a cheap leveler from pep boys that held my 440 just fine, I got some longer bolts and used the front and back intake manifold mounting bolts on both sides, with the manifold still on.

    Drops panties faster than any R/T

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    Quote Originally Posted by wyotech_cuda440 View Post
    I have heard that as well, as long as you have an aluminum intake. A cast iron intake can take it, but I wouldnt really trust four 1/4"-20 bolts in aluminum to hold a 500lb motor when it's bouncing on a cherry picker as you jack it up. I have a cheap leveler from pep boys that held my 440 just fine, I got some longer bolts and used the front and back intake manifold mounting bolts on both sides, with the manifold still on.
    I remove the intake and use chains on the 4 corners of the heads. I have tried to use a leveler, but they end up getting bound up at some point. The crank lever will end up hitting the boom of the cherry picker.
    I have used an carb plate to pull one before, but the way I do it, I need to be down lower on the motor to clear the hood. As you can see in the pics, it's a tight fit, but it works, so that's what I stick with now.
    Alan Short
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  20. #45

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    chaulk me up for another pull, for my 98 rc sport, blown v6 to a bored .30 over v6 completely rebuilt with some extra goodies here n there. just for a visual idea there was a half dollar size hole in the oil pan with the oil pan metal protruding out.


    never had this much trouble before, the motor n trans was seized together by the block n trans bell housin, ended up grabbin the trust crowbar n stuck in where the starter was n slammed on 5-6 times before it cracked open n unsealed the 2, grabbed the cherry picker n pulled back n out it came.
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

  21. #46

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    Quote Originally Posted by grapejuice1998 View Post
    I remove the intake and use chains on the 4 corners of the heads. I have tried to use a leveler, but they end up getting bound up at some point. The crank lever will end up hitting the boom of the cherry picker.
    I have used an carb plate to pull one before, but the way I do it, I need to be down lower on the motor to clear the hood. As you can see in the pics, it's a tight fit, but it works, so that's what I stick with now.
    problem ive always had with the leveler it sits against the cowl n scratches it when pullin
    Brad
    00 CC IB sport 360
    98 RC white sport mildly worked v6, used as a truck!

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    i can't remember where, so i cant quote it- but i remember reading somewhere in bold type to never lift the engine with one of those... not sure why, people been doing it for years. i use chains, on the heads personally.
    I remove the intake and use chains on the 4 corners of the heads. I have tried to use a leveler, but they end up getting bound up at some point. The crank lever will end up hitting the boom of the cherry picker.
    Same here. And the engine load leveler in my opinion is virtually usless. There is no room for it; it takes up head room as well as the problems mentioned above.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Addicted2Blue00 View Post
    problem ive always had with the leveler it sits against the cowl n scratches it when pullin
    I forgot about that. It did scratch my cowl when I tried using it! I mounted my coil there, so the small angle iron I used hides the scratches.
    Alan Short
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  24. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by Intense RT View Post
    In the next couple weeks I plan to pull the engine up in Ky at my parents' (nice garage). Been a while since I've pulled anything. Have yet to ever pull an engine out of these trucks so was looking for anything to help have this process planned out mentally.
    -hood
    -baggies/sharpie/pics
    -Starter
    -Dust shield
    -Flexplate bolts (bolts only right? Threaded into converter?)
    -Injector harness, dist., oil pressure sender, coolant temp sensor, Iat, alt, coil, ground straps,cps (missing anything?)
    -pull rad/upper support and hoses
    -jack under trans pan
    -bellhousing bolts


    Any quirks to get the motor mount bolts out? Pull it up some. Fought with these in other vehicles before. Take bolts out, chains hooked up, slack taken out and yank forward some?

    Can I leave the downpipes in place and everything clear, just remove headers?

    I may be missing some things, but as I said, it's been a while and first time on these trucks.

    Appreciate any help and guidance. Thanks.
    Like Everyone said not rocket science remove radiator and i always like to pull cap and rotor off so it doesn't get damaged while leaving all plug wires attached. pull the hood.1 person job unless you are a pencil pusher. remove exh. manifolds from heads or some guys like to leave them attached to the heads (doesn't work well with long tubes though) and pull them from y pipe or whatever setup you may have. remove torque converter bolts and bellhousing bolts,motor mounts,tranny lines if they are hooked to the engine,engine oil cooler lines,remove all linkages(throttle and tranny kick-down cable),harness and lay it off to one side,if a/c is still in place remove 4 mounting bolts and hose mounting bracket and lay the whole system off to one side. also remove the power steering lines that hook to the steering box.Theres not too much left.Everyone has there own way of doing it but this is how it has worked for myself. good luck
    Last edited by millman600; 04-08-2010 at 10:20 PM.

  25. #50

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    You probably don't need to pull the radiator or core support for clearance, but pulling the radiator will make it much easier to remove the fan on the older trucks. Instead of pulling the fan and shroud at the same time, just unbolt the shroud and radiator, then slide the radiator up and out. Then the shroud can move forward to clear the fan as you pull it, and getting the fan of is alot easier.

    Drops panties faster than any R/T

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