+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: tricks to changing spintech port plates?

  1. #1

    Default tricks to changing spintech port plates?

    Last time i did them was in 2008, been a while. I honestly dont remember how i got last header bolt out my socket doesnt seem to fit between tube and head now. What did you use when doing yours? Also collector bolts seem to be seized fairly good. Got them soaking in kroil now.

  2. #2

    98Dak408's Avatar
    Supporting Vendor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Detroit Area, Michigan
    Posts
    2,952

    Default

    You can try drilling the header flange bolt holes another size larger, so the bolts don't bind so much, and are better able to go in straight, thereby lessoning the chance of cross-threading.

  3. #3



    GoFastGray's Avatar
    Accumulating parts...

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    4,519

    Default

    I ran ARP bolts for my Spintech headers. They sell "Reduced Wrenching" bolts that have a smaller hex head which help for clearance issues. A 3/8-16 Hex head bolt generally uses a 9/16 wrench. ARP 3/8-16 bolts have a 7/16 head. If you go with their "Reduced Wrenching" bolt, it goes even further to a 3/8" head. This helps a lot with headers! I prefer this 10x over using socket head bolts.

    I used 12-pt stainless, but most people would probably prefer 6-pt. I also bought a special 1/2 moon wrench from Snap-On just to make the back passenger bolt easier to install and remove.

    In future, make sure you use an anti-seize on all the collector hardware! Also check that it can withstand the temperature from exhaust.

    https://arpcatalog.com/150/
    12.10@106@Famoso Raceway

  4. #4

    ironsport1000's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    RED HILL, PA
    Posts
    4,273

    Default

    Be careful with stainless bolts in aluminium.
    When aluminum and stainless steel come into contact with each other, there is a risk of galvanic corrosion. I don't know if anti-seize will
    stop it or not.

    BLACK '02 RC R/T (BLACK N BITTER) 12.5 @ 109 mph. Under the knife again.
    '99 IB RC R/T (Sabrina's truck) 13.8 @ 96 mph SOLD!
    '10 B5 blue pearl Challenger R/T Classic edition. Totaled!!! FML!!!
    '98 CC R/T Bought wrecked. Restoring it.
    '05 WRANGLER (DD)
    '05 HARLEY FXDCI

  5. #5



    GoFastGray's Avatar
    Accumulating parts...

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    4,519

    Default

    Yes, anti-seize with aluminum to stainless is a MUST! I rarely install ANY bolt without anti-seize or some sort of thread sealant anymore.
    12.10@106@Famoso Raceway

  6. #6

    98Dak408's Avatar
    Supporting Vendor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Detroit Area, Michigan
    Posts
    2,952

    Default

    Be careful with stainless bolts in aluminium.
    When aluminum and stainless steel come into contact with each other, there is a risk of galvanic corrosion. I don't know if anti-seize will
    stop it or not.
    You can have that problem with aluminum and steel too. My father had an old Korean War army truck that he modified for a snowplow. He made thick aluminum brackets to hold dual coil springs at the front axle to support the extra weight. Fastened to the steel frame, the aluminum brackets corroded badly, some spots into dust.

    However, the Edelbrock aluminum heads I have, use stainless steel thread inserts in the exhaust flange bolt holes.

    Note: IIRC, I tried using anti seize on my header flange bolts years ago, and I couldn't keep the bolts tight.

  7. #7

    Default

    mine has allen bolts holding headers to plates. Hit a roadblock as my gaskets ended up in miami and have been delayed. Was supposed to arrive a week ago. Oh i am in alabama. idk how it happened. so seller is trying to send again. I am going to attack it a little this weekend to get it torn apart.

  8. #8



    GoFastGray's Avatar
    Accumulating parts...

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    4,519

    Default

    Maybe a short arm will help then? Just make sure you have full engagement so that you don't strip the hex. You can buy or modify your own.
    https://www.tekton.com/individual-st...end-hex-l-keys
    12.10@106@Famoso Raceway

  9. #9

    Default

    I ordered from shopeddys in california. He is contacting fedex now.

  10. #10

    Default

    I will probably go that route.

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GoFastGray View Post
    Maybe a short arm will help then? Just make sure you have full engagement so that you don't strip the hex. You can buy or modify your own.
    https://www.tekton.com/individual-st...end-hex-l-keys
    I will probably go that route.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •