Hey guys looking for shock absorbers for front and rear of truck front is dropped 1 inch from stock and this thing is bottoming out over everything are there heavy duty shocks for front ??
Hey guys looking for shock absorbers for front and rear of truck front is dropped 1 inch from stock and this thing is bottoming out over everything are there heavy duty shocks for front ??
It's not the shocks that is letting your truck bottom out, it's the springs.
Springs are what hold the truck up, not the shocks.
A Dakota R/T has a 900 lb spring on the left front and a 950 lb spring on the right front.
They are staggered due to the engine being off set to the right in the chassis.
When I used a lowering spring in my truck I had the same issue.
I took them out and put them on a spring rate checker and found they were only 600 lb spring.
I put the original spring back in with drop control arms and that solved my problem.
The shocks I run now are Monroe Sensi-track and they work just fine.
Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood
Installed Hotchkis TVS on my 2000 and don't recall the coils having a left and right. Nor the original springs. Sure surfing the parts lists checking part number would determine if the originals were actually different.
Think the original poster needs to get some new bump stops and cut them down first.
Mike Williams
#001
98 DA RC GrapeJuice
99 BLK CC (Buy Back)
00 BLK RC ProCharged -Hotchkis - on and on (Sold)
01 AF CC (Leased - Turned in)
The way I know the springs are different from side to side, is I used a spring rate checker to find out why my truck was bottoming out.
The lowering springs I bought were only 600 lb spring and both side were the same.
With the engine off-set in the chassis to the right side, you need to have different springs to level out the weight.
The original poster needs to put the right weight springs in his truck.
Cutting down bump stops with the wrong springs doesn't solve his problem.
\Usually a lowered spring will be stiffer than the original spring that came out of the vehicle.
Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood
Well I went with bell tech springs for a v8 I did not cut the metal bump stops off control arms even when I had stock springs in it would bottom out just curious to know what shocks everyone is using so much crap on Amazon I currently have blue Monroe’s up front and worn out yellows Monroe’s out back I like Kyb and Gabriel and Monroe just trying to figure my best bet
Parts list 52039248 left and right spring for Dakota. Also 52039249 as left and right. Some reference 49 as being for Durango. Also lists ZAK,ZNK as revisions of the 48 part number and ZAJ,ZNJ for the 49 part. No specific instruction for left and right parts. If this was indeed an issue I'm sure there would be a long 25 year history of people putting the wrong springs on the wrong side and having issues with their trunks bottoming out. Seems like more people had issue lowering and not changing their bump stops.
Mike Williams
#001
98 DA RC GrapeJuice
99 BLK CC (Buy Back)
00 BLK RC ProCharged -Hotchkis - on and on (Sold)
01 AF CC (Leased - Turned in)