Hey guys what are the limits of the stock rocker arms and cam lift on eq heads and what about. non adjustable HS 1.7 anyone have a street friendly combo
Hey guys what are the limits of the stock rocker arms and cam lift on eq heads and what about. non adjustable HS 1.7 anyone have a street friendly combo
As a rule of thumb, the stock rockers are good for approximately a .520-.525 lift. You may be able to notch the rocker slot more with a die grinder for more lift. You would have to double check your clearances along the way though.Hey guys what are the limits of the stock rocker arms and cam lift on eq heads
Thanks what about the non adjustable HS 1.7s on a budget and every time I turn around it’s something else so I have both stock rockers and the Hs 1.7 the heads have new valves and springs ect good to 600” lift I think so I’m trying to see what I can get away with for now bottom end is completely stock
So far bottom is stock factory cam I added HS1.7 rollers to give a little more lift now I’m changing stock heads for some eq’s with 2.02 valves and springs for a higher lift cam since I’m going in for the heads i figured I would change the cam also currently have the FI air gap 52mm throttle body spintech mids and a tune by Ryan
Where are these heads coming from? Basically you 're gonna have the same stuff I have if you select a cam as I have outlined earlier in my set up.
My heads came from IMM and it was an absolute butcher job done by him. Had to have them all reworked when I got them for an additional $750.
I don't know where his alleged reputation is coming from unless he sells to people who don't know what they're looking at.
Heads from pie he was willing to listen to me and talked a good game don’t know until I get them so will see
Those rockers will handle a higher lift than stock rockers, but I'm not sure how much more. You'd have to mock it up and measure. You'd also have to measure for your pushrod length as well.Thanks what about the non adjustable HS 1.7s on a budget and every time I turn around it’s something else so I have both stock rockers and the Hs 1.7 the heads have new valves and springs ect good to 600” lift I think so I’m trying to see what I can get away with for now bottom end is completely stock
I for one would like to know if there is anyone out there doing what can be called a reputable, consistent and dependable job on heads?
I've heard too many sing-song reviews of many venders. Some have had great success and others, with the same vendors, have had less than stellar experiences.
Well I will let you guys know when I get them any suggestions on a cam ? For the street and running a/c
Jim
RaceMagnum
A cam with something to the effect of .225-.236 duration @ .50 along with .540 lift or more at 110 lsa.
Have your heads cut at least 30 thousandths and port match your intake. You need a bit more compression to take full advantage of the cam.
Use Felpro 1008 head gaskets.
This will be nice street set up.
Thanks this I like simple directions
Hopefully getting heads in the next week or 2 next problem I have is do I do it myself or pay someone it’s so freaking hot outside right now
Yes !! wanted eddy’s but nobody had the until September or longer so I went with pie think I’m saving about $1500 so I will put that on a supercharger that I originally wanted
My previous suggestions were for an n/a engine. If you're going supercharger, then I would get a cam in the 112-114 lsa range on about a 111 centerline.
Also, i would strongly suggest not keeping the non-adjustable rockers in the equation. Spend the additional $700 for a good set of adjustables.
You really shouldn't consider what you're getting until you make up your mind about your ultimate set up, then you can get a cam ground to the actual situation.
Was wondering about that I’ve seen 107-112 center line I’m thinking lower # for carbs and 110+ for FI ?
Lower the centerline (closer) brings the power band down (increase low end/mid range torque), but also reduces vacuum because intake and exhaust valve are open at the same time. That's why FI engines use 110 or higher to keep a good vacuum signal for the FI. Carb engines can use 110 or lower, that will give really good low end/mid range torque and a lot lope (106-108 lobe centers really lope). High RPM engines, 6500 rpm or higher benefit from 114 lobe centers. 110 lobe centers with good heads have no problems making power to 6500 rpm. SC cams were normally ground on 112-114 lobe centers to not bleed of cylinder pressure when both intake and exhaust were open during overlap, but Engine Master has proven that 110 (N/A cam vs 114 (SC cam) both had the same power gain N/A and SC on the dyno with 114 lobe cam making slightly more at higher RPM because of 114 lobe center. If you engine isn't making power past ~6000 RPM you mostly likely won't see power gains with 114 lobe center over a 110 N/A or SC.
Last edited by musky mike; 07-31-2022 at 12:07 PM.
Thanks guys !! This is probably the most action I’ve seen on here in a while I try to ck this forum every day but sometimes nothing is going on again thanks for info !!!
You're not confusing lobe separation angles with centerline placement right? Although closely related, they are not the same.
To make things worse, lotsa times you hear the term "cam centerline" when the correct term "intake centerline" should be used.
As an example, my cam has a 112 lobe separation angle and carded at 108 centerline placement..
The truck pulls very well at all rpm ranges as I hoped it would. I gave up abit of low end torque with this lsa choice so as to not fry the tires too much from a dig....with slicks that is. The truck is next to hopeless with street tires in this regard.
Last edited by arro222; 07-31-2022 at 04:40 AM.