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Thread: 4000-mile R/T with some electrical issues

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    Default 4000-mile R/T with some electrical issues

    One of our garage queens is my wife's 4000-mile 98 Dakota R/T. Last year the power door locks started acting weird; would lock, but just buzzed on unlock but did nothing.

    Today, I 'exercised' the shop vehicles. Since the bus was in the way, I just started and ran them for about 1/2 hour each. When I started the Dak, The ABS light was on, and the Air Bag light came within a few seconds of start. Those lights stayed on, even after attempting a restart. I also noted that the windows now don't work. Relays and fuses in the under-hood fuse/relay box all look good. I even pulled the ABS fuse and unplugged and reconnected the ABS harnesses with the key off, just in case. Everything is clean as one would expect on a 4000-mile vehicle.

    I'm starting to worry that the BCM has failed, but haven't had time to troubleshoot that yet. Anyone experience these failures, and if so, what's the fix? If BCM, where can one find a replacement for a R/T? Thanks.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    51 views and nothing?
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    The door lock sounded like the actuator may be going out. Simi-simple to replace.
    The other issues makes it seem like the BUS like you mentioned. Any local pick-your parts you can get one from?
    12.10@106@Famoso Raceway

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    I do have replacement Doorman actuators, just haven't installed them yet. Since both door locks act pretty much the same way, the driver's side is the one with the problems?

    The last I looked for a BCM, it seemed there was a 'standard', and 'enhanced' one with the R/T supposedly having the 'standard' one, which I could not find, nor could I find a way to determine if the 'enhanced' one could be used in place of the 'standard' one. Any idea if this is possible?

    We do have a couple of PnP places around, but Dakotas are kind of rare there. I'll go look again, though. Thanks!
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    The actuators in both my '98s are shit and only work randomly whenever they feel like it about 2% of the time. One of them is a 4x4 truck that my original R/T's engine is in (factory 5.2/44RE truck) that used to be a friend's truck, but just got wrecked and I bought it back. What's the PN for the one you need and I'll try to remember to look this weekend and see what is in the wrecked truck?
    Last edited by nitroram33; 06-10-2022 at 10:05 PM.

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    Jim,

    Thank you for the offer. I'll have to get the truck out to see. it's kind of in a parking spot in the shop so opening doors is kind of hard to do. Our motorhome is in the way, and I'm not sure we'll get to pulling it out this weekend. Need to work on the race car, and that might take much of the weekend to complete. I'll let you know if I do. It's a Club Cab, if that helps any.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    My 4x4 truck is also a CC.

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    Hmm, any idea if the body control module is compatible between a 4X4 CC and RWD CC? Thanks.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    Hopefully? The transfer case is manually operated so there's not even extra wiring for that. If the PN is the same then it should be fine.

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    After browsing this forum and the FSM, I'm thinking the CTM is on the driver's side under the dash? Any idea IF the CTM is there, and if it's relatively easy to get the P/N from? I, luckily, haven't had much trouble with this truck, especially since we don't drive it a lot, and it's the only Mopar I've owned in decades (last one was a 69 Dodge W300). Thanks.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    I didn't walk out and check my paper copy of my '98 FSM, but the digital copy of the '00 FSM that I have (and should be the same) says it's on the passenger side to the right of the glove box (which drops right out): "Both versions of the CTM are mounted under the passenger side end of the instrument panel, outboard of the instrument panel glove box opening."


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    Wow, I was starting to think the R&R steps weren't in there! Found it on p. 8E-32 of my FSM, but I'm already done in the shop for the day. It's just too hot for my old a**. Spent a couple of hours refilling and burping the cooling system in the race car after my co-driver forgot to turn the fan on. I had to take a couple of water/cooling breaks already, and I'm just done.

    Interesting, there's a CTM connector on the LEFT side of the firewall, which led me to believe it was over there. Good thing I didn't contort myself and get jammed under the dash trying to find it on the driver's side.

    I'll see if we can load the race car on the trailer next weekend. That'll require moving everything out of the way, so we can pull the R/T out of it's parking slot and get in there to check P/Ns. Thank you.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    Was too hot for my taste here too lol, didn't do anything til about 7:30 and that was just a glance at sticking caliper on my brother's car and then I retreated to the air conditioning.

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    Well, that was annoying! I tried to reset my default email address because the ISP I've been using for probably 20+ years is closing their doors. Once I did that, my account was disabled, and none of my emails to admins here were every answered.

    I reset it back to my original account, and for now, at least, I can comment to posts.

    I did get out to get the info on the CTM, but couldn't update this post. Here is the info:

    CTM Assembly - HIGH
    Chrysler p/n: 56021223AC
    Vendor #: 64469H
    Motorola Model #: 6JTH2677BB
    Date Code: 98130.2
    S/N: 06701595

    Thanks for any help.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    I'll try to get in there this weekend and check it. Gotta pull the plastic off that side so I can get the door open, but hopefully they're the same.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post


    I'll try to get in there this weekend and check it. Gotta pull the plastic off that side so I can get the door open, but hopefully they're the same.
    Finger's crossed, yes!! Thank you.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    No problem, I'll try and do it in the morning before it gets too hot lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post
    No problem, I'll try and do it in the morning before it gets too hot lol.
    THAT, I fully understand!!
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    Quote Originally Posted by gbeaird View Post
    THAT, I fully understand!!



    Managed to get home early and get it out of the truck tonight. A couple of those screws are pretty good at hiding.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    I found the screws easier to deal with than the freaking glove box door configuration. WTF is up with that?!?

    Other than date code and S/N, it looks like a match, right?
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    Lol, I was laying across from the driver side because I didn't wanna deal with untaping the passenger side so I didn't notice the one on the very bottom for a minute.

    Part number should really be all that matters, so confirmed that 4x4 and 4x2 are the same for the high trim version!

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    Does anyone know if this is a plug-n-play thing, or would we have to find someone who can update VINs on a 24-year-old truck? Seeing how it has 'HIGH' printed on the label, I'm assuming it's a 'high line' CTM, which the FSM says has to have some items programmed to the new vehicle.

    Asking for a friend.
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    That I dunno, but the PCM doesn't need the VIN flashed on the older trucks so maybe you get lucky and the BCM just plops right in there. Dodge dealer shouldn't have any problem programming things though, they should still all have their DRB stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post
    That I dunno, but the PCM doesn't need the VIN flashed on the older trucks so maybe you get lucky and the BCM just plops right in there. Dodge dealer shouldn't have any problem programming things though, they should still all have their DRB stuff.
    Yeah, me neither. I know the local 'speed' shops tend to abandon yesterday's platform with rapid succession.

    Please let me know what you want for it, and how you prefer payment. We have PayPal, or we can send cash, checks, stamps, etc. :-)
    Gene Beaird,
    98 FR CC R/T
    Pearland, Texas

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    Just whatever shipping is; if it works awesome and if not chunk it in the trash lol. If you wanna PM me your address I'll get it in a box and see how much they wanna charge after I stop messing with my brother's Miata in a bit.

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