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Thread: Valve Lifter Noise??

  1. #26

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Lol jeezus packard
    Well over the weekend I tried adding a pinch (1/2qt) of marvel mystery oil in and drove it for a bit. Seemed to subdue the clatter, especially after warmed up. Cold starts still were quite loud however. So I dumped the oil and changed to 5w30 conventional and a fresh filter. Still clattered away but I have'nt gotten a good drive post oil change, so I'll report back soon enough. I don't think it's anything like bolts backing out because the noise has gone away at times after it's hot.

    Again I am curious if it has anythng to do with increased valve spring pressures. With my lift and installed spring height setup at 1.750", my pressures measured out Valve fully open @390lbs / Valve seated closed @160lbs. Do those #'s seem alright, or could it be overwhelming the lifters somewhat?
    I think my next move might be to try adding more preload as musky suggested. That or maybe attempt adjusting on the fly using cut out valve covers.

    Thanks for the suggestions guys.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  2. #27

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    Is it a tick or valve train chatter? When did it start? Those spring pressures numbers don't look much different than my stock Eddys. Are you using 1.6 or 1.7 rockers?

    I don't want to insult you, but here are things I would check:

    - Push rods are straight
    - Rocker arms are centered on the valve stem
    - Pushrods are centered in the guide plates
    - Both ends of the pushrod are not worn (roller cam pushrods do not rotate like flat tappet)

    For what it's worth, I have Eddy heads, 208/212 cam, roller rockers and aluminum valve covers and valve train chatter seems louder than other Ford and Chevy engines I have had. But those other engines weren't roller cam, fuel injected, aluminum heads and aluminum valve covers. Not sure if any of that makes a difference.

  3. #28

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    Well it's a bit odd because everything was sounding normal for several hundred miles after my rebuild. So why all the sudden lately I started getting this tap noise is strange to me. When I had it all apart to change lifters I checked for PR wear, rocker wear, PR straightness, cam lobe wear...it all looked perfect
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Well it's a bit odd because everything was sounding normal for several hundred miles after my rebuild. So why all the sudden lately I started getting this tap noise is strange to me. When I had it all apart to change lifters I checked for PR wear, rocker wear, PR straightness, cam lobe wear...it all looked perfect
    Hmm, two things...oil has been mentioned, Hemis are known for "Hemi tick" the guys on the Ram forum swear by Lubegard by Biotech. I'm not a snake oil guy, but lab results show it does have high moly, a pressure lubricate and calcium, a cleaning agent. Both lacking in todays oils. It also has high esters. It has shown to cure 'Hemi tick" and quiet down Hemis. Could be worth a try. If you go the Lubegard route, it could take a few 100 miles for the moly to plate to the metal surfaces. Also, could have been something in the valve train was on the edge on tolerance and then "wore in" some. it's a little bit of work, maybe try 1/8 turn less lash see if it helps and then 1/4 more lash (from your 1/2 turn lash setting).

    Also assuming you don't have an header leak, spark plug arcing or noisy injector.

  5. #30

    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Are the oil holes in the side of the lifters facing toward the camshaft?

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by packard1 View Post
    IS EVERYBODY A RETARD ?? THE THINNER OIL WILL CURE THIS ISSUE.. 5-20- . CHANGE OIL AND FILT. PROBLEM SOLVED..
    THE VALVING IN LIFTERS HAS BEEN CHANGED........
    This isn't always necessarily true Pack. I've subdued lifter tick with a thicker oil and used conventional oil to boot. I'd like to see what 10-30 does for J's problem after a couple hundred miles.


    J, you can try a bit more preset . 1/2 turn should have done ya but everything is different. Wouldn't hurt to try Musky's suggestion of a 1/4 turn more. Or even a full turn.

  7. #32
    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Are the oil holes in the side of the lifters facing toward the camshaft?
    This ^^^

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  8. #33

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    Header bolts tight? Exhaust leak? Header gasket blown out? These all things that should be considered
    .

  9. #34

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    If your preload isn't sufficient, you're gonna get the sound of the lifter plunger or cup, striking the retaining wire.
    Why you got the sound after few hundred miles may have meant your initial adjustments loosened up.
    Since you have little compunction to take off the intake, Go back and put 3/4 turn preload and see if the plunger stays away from the retaining wire when pressing on the rocker and letting it up..
    You should still have enough lash to fill up the lifter.

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    DO YOU HAVE LIFTERS INSTALLED CORRECTLY ? with flat spot towards galley pointing inward ?? I've cured at least 15 + in my shop by using 5-20 as per
    Sig Erson cams ,, i have a 408 i fought same issue with 10-30 in it.. MARVEL MYSTERY oil is thinner than 5 wt. , i use 5-20 , .
    I have a billet crank and rods from SCAT. .003 on rods and mains, stock oil pump, has great oil pressure with 5-20 ,, no lifter noise now..
    I had to drive it 20-30 miles with the 5-20 and i have no lifter noise.. Forgot my spring pressure, cam is 222-228 550 lift..
    If 5-20 don't cure lifter noise you've got internal issues.. Again, flat spot on lifter pointing wrong way will do that also, doesn't let air out of lifter..

  11. #36

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    Header bolts tight? Exhaust leak? Header gasket blown out?
    Yes. This can sound mechanical too.

  12. #37

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    FWIW, I am running 3/4 preload myself.

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    HUGHES ENGINES SAY'S to run 1 1/2 turns preload...

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by packard1 View Post
    HUGHES ENGINES SAY'S to run 1 1/2 turns preload...
    Yeah. They've even recommended 2 turns.
    Maybe someone was using different pushrod length there because at 1 and a half, mine kept the valves open.
    I'm at 1/2 turn and all is well.
    As I said, everyone's is different.

  15. #40

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    Damn. That's a lot. 1 1/2

  16. #41

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    First, thank you for all your suggestions and help with my issue. This forum and community is gold, long live the

    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Are the oil holes in the side of the lifters facing toward the camshaft?
    They are facing up towards the sky, lol I certainly hope thats right cause thats what I read in the manuals IIRC.

    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    This isn't always necessarily true Pack. I've subdued lifter tick with a thicker oil and used conventional oil to boot. I'd like to see what 10-30 does for J's problem after a couple hundred miles.


    J, you can try a bit more preset . 1/2 turn should have done ya but everything is different. Wouldn't hurt to try Musky's suggestion of a 1/4 turn more. Or even a full turn.
    Arro, I've been running 10w-30 from break in, and now just changed to 5w-30 as per packard's suggestion. I agree on adding some more preload as well and see how that goes.

    Quote Originally Posted by ironsport1000 View Post
    Header bolts tight? Exhaust leak? Header gasket blown out? These all things that should be considered
    .
    Certainly worth a check, although it sounds like the source of the noise is internal and mechanical in nature. I'm using remflex gaskets everywhere, but you never know. Thanks!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  17. #42

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    Added an additional 1/4 turn...for a total of 3/4 preload.



    No difference. Might try another 1/4 turn, or modify some oe valve covers to adjust them running.

    EDIT: ignore the smoke, lol just a little drop of oil that dripped on the headers
    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 09-22-2021 at 11:26 PM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  18. #43
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    Howd the lifters feel in the bore? clearance wise

  19. #44

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    Oh Boy, tough to tell audio wise but I've heard spark arc sound that way. The knock seems intermittent, Lifter noise is rather constant again unless the audio is masking a constant tick.
    Try the extra marginal turn and look at the engine running in the dark to rule out spark jump.
    J, do you have an analyzer that you can single out which cylinder is misfiring?
    If it is always the same, first thing I'd check is to make sure the adjuster nut on a rocker isn't stripped.

    If you can isolate the cylinder, swap out a rocker from another cylinder.. See if the noise jumps to the cylinder with the swapped out rocker.

  20. #45

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    Oh Boy, tough to tell audio wise but I've heard spark arc sound that way.
    Does kinda sound like that. If it’s spark arc water makes it worse .Cdi and multi strike boxes make this arcing worse

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by packard1 View Post
    HUGHES ENGINES SAY'S to run 1 1/2 turns preload...
    Dave Hughes is an idiot.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  22. #47

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kota360 View Post
    Dave Hughes is an idiot.


    Quote Originally Posted by Red barchetta View Post
    Oh Boy, tough to tell audio wise but I've heard spark arc sound that way.
    Does kinda sound like that. If it’s spark arc water makes it worse .Cdi and multi strike boxes make this arcing worse
    Running just the stock ignition setup. I checked with it running tonight in the dark and didn't see any lightening.

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Howd the lifters feel in the bore? clearance wise
    Lifter bore clearance feels great.

    OK, so today I adjusted another 90° turn, so now 1 full turn from zero lash. No difference. So I ended up taking it out for a quick rip around town, power is excellent and it at times couldn't even really hear the noise. So then during my test drive I spotted a guy I met a while ago from a Mopar meet out with his sweet 500+HP protouring 410 stroked out Dart GT. This is his car



    Anyways, I had him have a look/listen and he was pretty convinced I have a header gasket leak. And the more I think about it, it makes sense how the noise can come and go as things heat cycle. So feeling a bit more relieved, he's a super knowledgeable guy and I trust his judgement. Just really made my night and can't wait to confirm whether or not the headers are the culprit.

    So I gotta give shoutouts to Musky Mike, Ironsport (Jim), and Richard for suggesting exhaust/header leaks. Honestly the sound just threw me as being valvetrain related. Kinda feel a bit stupid if that's what it is!! At the end of the day I just care about getting the thing sounding like it should!

    Stay tuned I'll report findings soon, thanks everyone!
    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 09-24-2021 at 07:37 PM.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  23. #48


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    Noises can be very deceiving... I thought my alternator was going bad (replaced it), turns out I have a squealing vacuum leak. I still haven't located it, but suspecting intake gaskets.
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  24. #49

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    Any updates?

  25. #50

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    Any updates?
    All fixed, confirmed it was indeed my header port plates leaking. I originally used copper RTV between the port plates and head. I found my allen head bolts in the port plates were loose.
    This time I installed felpro gaskets to seal the port plates, and red 262 loctite on the screws. I reinstalled the headers with new remflex gaskets. I let the loctite set up for 2 days before I tried running it again.

    Video:


    Of course speaking of noises...the alternator sounds pretty whiney now that I think of it

    Thanks again everyone for sharing their opinions
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

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