+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 36

Thread: Powerdyne FMU to Fuel Rail Question

  1. #1
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default Powerdyne FMU to Fuel Rail Question

    Does anyone have a pic of how the fuel line from the Powerdyne FMU connects to the fuel rail?

    Any other pics of the fuel line connections at the FMU on the drivers frame rail would be helpful as well.

    I know I am missing some hoses, connectors, etc, just wondering if anyone running a Powerdyne has a pic of this. I have had this thing for a few years collecting dust and now my 7 year old is interested in working on vehicles.

    I know the Powerdyne is a bottom of the rung S/C with belt slippage issues and so forth, but its something me and my son are doing together.

    Thanks.
    Terry (TC)

  2. #2

    SpoR/T driver

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lancaster, SC
    Posts
    1,284

    Default

    Are you dead set on working with the setup the way it is? There are much better options these days.

    Upgraded fuel pump with properly sized injectors and a tune would be a much better performer, as well as safer too. Not sure if it's in the budget for you or not, but relatively cheap insurance.

    '98 RC/SB - Hellcat/6 Speed Swapped
    10.18@139.8mph
    '00 AF RC R/T Under Construction!
    '01 IB RC R/T Under Construction!
    '99 SY CC R/T Sold
    '00 AF RC R/T Sold
    DRTC Member #1181

  3. #3
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BlakDak71 View Post
    Are you dead set on working with the setup the way it is? There are much better options these days.

    Upgraded fuel pump with properly sized injectors and a tune would be a much better performer, as well as safer too. Not sure if it's in the budget for you or not, but relatively cheap insurance.
    For the time being, yes I want to use this set up. Primarily for father / son time. If it works, great. If not, we can move on from there.

    I know tuning would be better, just not in the budget yet.

    I was just wondering if anyone had pics of how it connects to the fuel rail. The instructions I have are old with horribly pixelated and dark images; definitely not modern.

    Thanks.
    TC

  4. #4

    SpoR/T driver

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lancaster, SC
    Posts
    1,284

    Default

    Figured I'd try. Best of luck finding what you need! I'm sure somebody has something buried in their files.

    '98 RC/SB - Hellcat/6 Speed Swapped
    10.18@139.8mph
    '00 AF RC R/T Under Construction!
    '01 IB RC R/T Under Construction!
    '99 SY CC R/T Sold
    '00 AF RC R/T Sold
    DRTC Member #1181

  5. #5
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    Are you still on a returnless system?

  6. #6
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Are you still on a returnless system?
    Quite honestly, I am unsure. I was following the instructions for this specific install but the pictures are awful.

    Was justvtrying to see if someone had the same so I could see the connection to the fuel rail.

    First time messing with a SC.

  7. #7
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TC-RT View Post
    Quite honestly, I am unsure. I was following the instructions for this specific install but the pictures are awful.

    Was justvtrying to see if someone had the same so I could see the connection to the fuel rail.

    First time messing with a SC.
    I'm not familiar with the set up your talking about. Perhaps you can post a pic of the diagram/instructions?
    I used a different fmu for a turbo set up and to used the factory returnless setup. Needed an extra fuel pump that was on a hobs swich and a bunch of fittings to cycle the 2nd pump with the fmu into the factory system. Hard to explain but ill try to find the diagram i used.
    Honestly tho. It would be best/easiest to run to return style fuel system with a 1:1 rising rate fuel regulator.

  8. #8
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    AHH I knew it was from the best site around.
    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...495-FMU-hookup

  9. #9
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    AHH I knew it was from the best site around.
    http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...495-FMU-hookup
    Thank you Niebs! I searched and could not find it.

    It looks like the setup I have. Once I get back to working on it, I will post an update.

    Much appreciated. I guess I was not searching the correct verbiage.

  10. #10
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TC-RT View Post
    Thank you Niebs! I searched and could not find it.

    It looks like the setup I have. Once I get back to working on it, I will post an update.

    Much appreciated. I guess I was not searching the correct verbiage.
    Hope it helps. Keep us updated on how it goes. Ask anything you need. We all want to see burn outs and time slips lol

  11. #11
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    PS: you're about 45 mins from me so if you need an extra set of hand or eyes. Give me a shout.

  12. #12
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    PS: you're about 45 mins from me so if you need an extra set of hand or eyes. Give me a shout.
    I appreciate it. The diagram you posted was exactly what I needed. I had all the correct hoses and got all the fuel lines connected today.

    I just need to replace a couple worn idler pulleys, wire the relay for the FMU and a few other loose ends and hopefully will be ready to go.

    Will keep you posted. My son and I do not get much time to work on the RT, usually Fridays after work and sometimes on Saturdays.

    Getting closer. Thanks again.

  13. #13

    Default

    I have a Powerdyne on my 2000. I used to run the FMU but like others have said, skip it and go with SCT. In the long run, you will go that route anyway so may as well save your time and money. This is from a "been there done that" experience.
    2000 Dakota, 5.9, 6lb Powerdyne, 13.33@106

  14. #14
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Finally getting back to working on the RT. I was in the hospital and am finally able to work on it again.

    I think, as all of you said, it will be best to ditch the FMU and go with a tune (you can say I told you so)

    A few questions though:

    1. What size injectors do I need?
    2. What brand of injectors would you recommend??
    3. Where can I get an SCT tuner?
    4. Will I need to upgrade my in tank fuel pump?

    I already have an MSD 6AL, 8.5mm MSD wires. MSD Iridium plugs, Accel cap/rotor with brass contacts, MSD Coil already installed.

    The reason for my wanting to ditch the FMU is the pump sounds like its going bad (almost like a grinding noise), hoses leaking, and I would rather spend on a tune than fix the FMU which (as you all have said) is a pos.

    Thanks again for all the info.

    TC

  15. #15

    evilrt's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Flint, MI
    Posts
    309

    Default

    Probably best to talk to your tuner. Most would recommend FRP. Ryan can make his recommendations and sells the SCT. At the levels you will see with a Powerdyne, probably good with stock injectors and a Walbro 255 fuel pump. You are going to need a wide band O2 to see what your Air/Fuel ratio is doing.
    Mike Williams
    #001



    98 DA RC GrapeJuice
    99 BLK CC (Buy Back)
    00 BLK RC ProCharged -Hotchkis - on and on (Sold)
    01 AF CC (Leased - Turned in)

  16. #16
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Well, the Supercharger install has been on hold. I have been trying to troubleshoot another issue.

    The RT starts, but runs rough at idle, in drive, reverse, neutral, and through all gears.

    At idle RPM in any gear it fluctuates up and down about 150 rpm or so.

    Also, today as I was slowly down from about 55 mph, I let off the gas and heard what sounded like a pop (backfire?) from the exhaust.

    Here is what I have checked and/or replaced so far and this has become frustrating to say the least.

    - New JBA stainless headers and Y-pipe
    - New aftermarket cat
    - New O2 sensors pre and post cat (not the sensors on the headers)
    - New MSD 8.5mm wires (no wires are crossed as I have checked this a dozen times)
    - Plugs are Iridium gapped to .040, only 2000 miles or so on them. I have pulled the plugs and they appear normal, not wet or anything like that.
    - I swapped in a new ignition coil with same result. I now have my MSD and blaster coil installed
    - New MAP sensor
    - IAC checked good (only about 3 years old)
    - TPS checked good (only about 3 years old)
    - Fuel pressure at fuel rail with key on and not running was a steady 49 to 50 psi. With RT running it was the same 49 to 50.
    - Fuel pressure with ignition switch off, held steady with zero drop at 48 psi for 5 minutes then I just disconnected my test gage after 5 min.

    I am sure I am forgetting other things, but Im pulling my hair out (not literally as I am already bald)

    Any suggestions would be helpful.

    Thanks,
    Terry

    Edit:

    - New Accel Cap and Rotor

    No check engine light. It only came on when I back probed the TPS and IAC to test for voltage which is normal
    Last edited by TC-RT; 11-05-2021 at 12:15 AM.

  17. #17
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Just thinking out loud; is it possible to have adequate fuel pressure, but not enough volume on and old fuel pump?

    Ive had the RT over 6 years now and not sure if the previous owner ever replaced the fuel pump; I know I havent.

  18. #18
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    Do you have a scanner that can check fuel trims?
    Are the the new parts after this issue started?
    Was the battery disconnected after all these changes?

  19. #19

    evilrt's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Flint, MI
    Posts
    309

    Default

    Cam/Crank sensors?
    Mike Williams
    #001



    98 DA RC GrapeJuice
    99 BLK CC (Buy Back)
    00 BLK RC ProCharged -Hotchkis - on and on (Sold)
    01 AF CC (Leased - Turned in)

  20. #20
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Do you have a scanner that can check fuel trims?
    Are the the new parts after this issue started?
    Was the battery disconnected after all these changes?
    No scanner to check fuel trims.

    All parts were installed after this issue started with the exception of the headers, y pipe, plug wires which were installed and good before this issue.

    Battery was disconnected during and after all these changes.

  21. #21
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by evilrt View Post
    Cam/Crank sensors?
    Will have to look into these

  22. #22
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    I replaced the cam sensor (distributor pick up coil) still no change.

    I realized I already replaced my camshaft sensor when I installed my MSaine trans last fall.

    I checked vacuum at the intake manifold. On start up it ready a rock steady 20. Once it warmed up, it read a rock steady 18.

    I checked resistance on all injectors. They all read between 14.1 to 14.4 at 50 degrees F.

    I used my stethoscope to listen to each injector. They were all opening and closing and sounded the same.

    So far, I am thinking I dont have a vacuum leak, injectors are working. Maybe the injectors need to be cleaned?

    What kind of scanner do I need to check fuel trim? What would I be looking for? If there is an issue with fuel trim, how is it corrected?

    Slowly but surely ruling things out.

    Thanks for the help.

    Terry

  23. #23
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    1,761

    Default

    Did you use an oem MAP sensor or is it a 2 bar sensor bc you were going to install a supercharger?

  24. #24
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Did you use an oem MAP sensor or is it a 2 bar sensor bc you were going to install a supercharger?
    Its an OEM sensor. I have halted the supercharger install until I can figure out the problem I am currently having.

    Once I have this running issue fixed, I will go to the 2bar SRT4 map as suggested by FRP along with wideband 02 and a tune.

  25. #25
    TC-RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Collingswood, NJ
    Posts
    433

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Do you have a scanner that can check fuel trims?
    Are the the new parts after this issue started?
    Was the battery disconnected after all these changes?
    So I finally bought a scan tool and was able to get fuel trim readings.

    No check engine light but I did have a P0351 Ignition Coil #1 Circuit. I assume this is #1 cylinder. Will need to check this out.

    Please note these readings are at a cold start at idle. Any help deciphering this data is appreciated.

    STFT B1S1 -20.3%
    STFT B2S1 -12.5 %
    STFT B1S3 99.2%
    STFT B2S2 99.2%

    STFT B1 -17.2%
    STFT B2 -15.6%

    LTFT B1 0%
    LTFT B2 0%

    O2 Sensor Readings were all between 0.040 to 0.180 volts

    Not sure what all this means. Just learning with this scan tool.

    Thanks,
    Terry

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •