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Thread: MSAINE street/strip valve body

  1. #26

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    VB with TCC bypass should be here in a few weeks. Who is volunteering to help with the install??????

  2. #27
    BIGROB's Avatar
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    I volunteer emotional support. Let me know when you get started and I'll crack open cold one for you in Louisiana

    Just remembered something from when I did mine.
    I would recommend changing this band strut while your in there and make sure to check the bands for the correct adjustment.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sox-22825-01
    My stamped steel factory strut was slightly bent. when I took it out.

    Did Martin send you the installation instructions yet? I might be able to find mine somewhere.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  3. #28

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    I like what I’m reading . How much did it cost ? In the ballpark.
    I think if tcc applies less often in city driving , converters should last forever, and fluid should stay clean longer.

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    I volunteer emotional support. Let me know when you get started and I'll crack open cold one for you in Louisiana

    Just remembered something from when I did mine.
    I would recommend changing this band strut while your in there and make sure to check the bands for the correct adjustment.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sox-22825-01
    My stamped steel factory strut was slightly bent. when I took it out.

    Did Martin send you the installation instructions yet? I might be able to find mine somewhere.
    He should be sending me the VB next week. I'll order the band strut, anything else easy I should replace while the VB is off? I'll adjust both bands, front band torque to 72 inlbs and back off 2 1/4 turns, rear band torque to 72 inlbs, and back off 2 turns.

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    He should be sending me the VB next week. I'll order the band strut, anything else easy I should replace while the VB is off? I'll adjust both bands, front band torque to 72 inlbs and back off 2 1/4 turns, rear band torque to 72 inlbs, and back off 2 turns.
    The internal band adjustment is a square drive. I didn't have any so I cut a piece of square bar, honed it down some and welded into an old no. 10 socket I had.

  6. #31
    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Here's the instructions Martin had sent me along with a picture of the spacer.

    Instructions.

    Raise vehicle, place on jackstands. Allow to cool. Hot trans fluid can cause burns!


    Carefully disconnect the harness plug from the valvebody connector. (Drivers side of vehicle, just to the rear of the shifter arm mechanism). Extreme care must be taken not to damage the connector or pins in the harness. Pins and plug are small and delicate and must not be damaged.


    Place large drain pan under transmission pan. Loosen pan bolts on three sides of pan. Remove bolts except for two bolts on one end of pan, and one bolt on the other end. Slightly loosen the two bolts on one end, then loosen the remaining bolt. Allow the pan to hang at an angle and drain into the large drain pan. Continue loosening the one bolt until pan has drained most of the fluid out. Then, hold pan up level with one hand while removing the remaining bolts. Lower pan and drain out fluid. Observe the inside of the pan to see if there are particles in the pan.


    Remove the TV cable from the ball stud on the TV arm. Loosen the TV arm bolt and remove the TV arm. Note orientation of arm, make sure arm goes back on the same way it was removed. (full round hole on bottom, ½ circle side on top)


    Remove the Shifter cable and shift the trans into low position. (This will assist in removing the park rod clip later). Remove the shifter arm.


    Remove the e-clip holding the Park Rod (long rod extending back into the rear of the transmission) to the valve body shift actuator. Be careful not to lose the e-clip! Pull the Park Rod loose from the shift actuator and push it towards the rear of the trans.


    Remove the perimeter bolts holding the valve body to the trans case. The Filter bolts do not go into the case and do not need to be removed to remove the valve body. NOTE: If the valvebody does not loosen slightly after the bolts are removed, you have missed a bolt! Once all bolts have been removed the valvebody will be noticeably loose. However, due to the 0-rings on the valvebody electrical plug and the seal on the shifter shaft which stick up through the trans case, you will need to pull the valvebody out of the transmission by wiggling straight down (you will need to lightly push down on the harness connector on the outside of the case while holding on to the valvebody. Once the o-rings have cleared the case the valvebody will come out. Don’t pull so hard that you break the harness plug!


    Once the valvebody is removed the accumulator piston and spring will probably fall out. You will not be using the spring, so discard it. The Piston will be re-used. It goes into the hole in the trans case with the small end with seal ring going into the trans. (See Photo)

    Place the supplied spacer between the piston and the bottom of the accumulator well in the trans case. Insert the accumulator piston into the well (you might need to apply a small amount of Vasoline to the edges of the accumulator piston to retain it in the well while you install the valvebody). Make certain the piston seats fully against the supplied spacer in the piston well.

    Place a small amount of Vasoline on the o-rings around the valvebody electrical plug where it seals to the trans case. Insert new valvebody into trans case being careful not to damage the Electrical connector o-rings or the shifter shaft seal. NOTE: If the valvebody does not set flush with the trans case with hand pressure only, the accumulator piston is probably not seated. Do not tighten any bolts until valvebody will set flat against the trans case!!!! Snug bolts, then tighten to 110 Inch Pounds! Make certain the correct length bolts go back into the holes they came out of!


    Re-install remainder of components as removed (don’t forget to install the Park rod and e-clip).
    Install trans pan and fill to proper level. Begin by installing 6 quarts of fluid, then start the engine with the trans in Neutral. While vehicle is idling in neutral add fluid to attain proper level. DO NOT OVERFILL! Proper level is attained when fluid is at operating temperature, shifter in neutral, vehicle on level ground. Re-check the fluid level (on both sides of the dipstick) after driving.


    Tip; While pan is off consider adding a drain plug for future convenience.



    Band adjustment:

    Adjust the second gear band as follows;
    Loosen jamb nut on adjusting stud.
    Tighten adjusting stud to 72 INCH POUNDS!!! Using an inch-pound torque wrench. Be sure that your torque wrench reads in inch pounds, NOT foot pounds!
    Loosen adjusting stud 2-1/8 turns. Be as accurate as possible!
    While holding adjusting stud at the 2-1/8 turn mark, tighten the jamb nut.



    TV Cable Adjustment:
    Remove plastic clip at throttle body end of cable.
    Have assistant hold accelerator pedal to the floor, and keep it there until adjustment is complete.
    With accelerator pedal floored, pull the black TV cable sheath towards the firewall until the metal wire is tight against the throttle lever on the throttle body, slowly let the cable sheath come forward about 1/8” and re-insert the retaining clip.
    Have assistant release the throttle, then floor it again and hold. Check up and down movement of the wire going to the throttle lever (like a bicycle chain), there should be approx ¼” up and down movement of the wire with the throttle wide open.
    Test drive.

    Accumulator Spacer Installation Photo.jpg

    Picture of my old and new valve body. I didn't take more pictures and i don't recall any other issues or problems. It was pretty straight forward and easy install. Don't sweat it, take your time & follow the instructions and you'll be chirping gears before you know it.
    valve body.jpg

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  7. #32

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    Thanks BIGROB.

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    The internal band adjustment is a square drive. I didn't have any so I cut a piece of square bar, honed it down some and welded into an old no. 10 socket I had.
    Can you post a picture of what it looks like.

  9. #34
    BIGROB's Avatar
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    I dont remember needing anything special for the band adjuster.
    Looked like this. https://i.ytimg.com/vi/2q9xBMZKkto/maxresdefault.jpg

    Mine is an 03 model so maybe later build were different.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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