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Thread: Oil pan removal question

  1. #1

    Default Oil pan removal question

    Hello,

    I just picked up a R/T and it's really clean, but the headers do have a good amount of rust on them and when I was changing the oil, I noticed rust along oil pan rail. I'm going to remove the headers and sand blast and paint them, at the same time I want to remove the oil pan and sand blast and paint it. After I remove the headers, distributor cap, torque convertor shield and motor mount bolts, can put the jack under front the trans (where it bolts to the engine) to jack up the engine? Going try and get this done before it gets hot out.

  2. #2
    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    You will have to raise the engine to remove the pan. I wouldn't do it by using a jack on the trans. Two reasons, I believe the trans will hit the trans tunnel before you get the height you need and I wouldn't trust an aluminum trans case to handle the weight of the engine.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  3. #3
    nitroram33's Avatar
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    Have an engine hoist? The frame side of the motor mounts have slots in the top so you can back the nuts off a little on either side and pick the engine up from the top without too much hassle.

  4. #4

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    I don't have a hoist, was hoping there was another way of lifting the engine with a jack from the underside.

  5. #5

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    I started to remove/loosen bolts to raise the engine. I searched youtube, but can't find where anyone has done a 5.2/5.9 2wd before. Will there be enough room to get the oil pan off? Has anyone done it before?

  6. #6
    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    You can't rent one or find one on craigslist that can be sold after using?

    I would pull the engine and replace the core plugs while doing the other work you have planned.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  7. #7

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
    I gots to have mo'par-ts!

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    Never tried this job in the truck, but below is a snapshot of the service manual instructions for ya if it helps any...

    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Never tried this job in the truck, but below is a snapshot of the service manual instructions for ya if it helps any...

    Thanks, doing all that and a few more things. If it works, I'll make a list and post it. If it doesn't work, everything I'm doing has to be done to pull the engine anyway.

  9. #9

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
    I gots to have mo'par-ts!

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    Thanks, doing all that and a few more things. If it works, I'll make a list and post it. If it doesn't work, everything I'm doing has to be done to pull the engine anyway.
    Good luck!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  10. #10
    nitroram33's Avatar
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    I'm glad I have a lift and an engine hoist now lol.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post
    i'm glad i have a lift and an engine hoist now lol.
    iawtp
    1941 Dodge 1/2 ton, 493 twin turbo, EFI, 727, 4 wheel disc brakes, custom triangulated 4 link, DANA 60, Gleason Torsen diff,

    2002 Dakota R/T RC, PX8, PPH Headers, K&N FIPK, Hotchkis TVS, 20" R/T chrome rims, BFG G-Force T/A KDW 275/35 ZR20 tires, Kenwood head unit, Kenwood speakers, RF amp, 8" RF Punch Z subs

    1998 Dakota RC daily driver 5.9L, AX-15 5 speed, Hooker long tube headers, FRP tune

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