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Thread: When for nitrous

  1. #1

    Default When for nitrous

    Those of you who used nitrous, when did you have your activation happen? Out of the hole (would you need a 3500-4000 rpm launch to be on the safe side?) or did you use a window, progression or button to switch it on later down the track in first gear?

  2. #2




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    At the track if you can't leave on nitrous it is time for some suspension work and tires.
    Now this is aimed at 99% of the trucks on here, if you are spraying a lot of juicey juice then bringing in stages and/or a progressive is needed.
    Never spray nitrous below 3K rpm or you will spit out throttle blades and have it shut off before the rev limiter.
    I have my nitrous on a button so if it happens to wheel stand i can stay on the throttle but let of the nitrous or i can shift into the next gear to bring the nose back down.
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  3. #3

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    i hit a 150 out of the hole and leave around 3500 RPM 1.5 60' i have only spun a couple times mostly my fault with poor burnouts.. caltracs on shitty beltech springs foot brake... i do have a progressive but i only really use it when im trying to new tunes before i hit it out of the hole..i should pick up some et and mph once i get my nitrous figured out still working out some bugs..i running a winmax wont activate unless it sees WOT and a certain RPM deactivaes abouts about 400 rpm before my rev limiter
    Be yourself, everyone else is already taken
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  4. #4

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    With these answers, I figure a window switch at 3500-4000 is prolly safest bet with perhaps a progression no?
    Now correct me if I'm wrong cuz I've never dealt with automatics racing wise, but my Converter is @2800.
    Figuring it should take a second to get to 3500 if that's where I set the window.
    I'm only using a 150 shot total myself and other than caltracs and strapping only the front part of rear springs, I've done no suspension stuff as far as shocks, snubber, removing frnt sway bar, etc.
    It's a daily cc so i'm not wishing to mess with the suspension too much as it needs to do "truck work" as well. I'm thinking I should at least do the snubber.
    Slicks are 10"x26"x15"

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    blackknight's Avatar
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    I ran a 150 right out of the hole, on a 3200 msaine stall, with 28” ET streets, 4.56 gears, cal tracs, 50/50 competition engineering shocks with no problem, I had It on WOT switch thru the TPS




    FYI; I have a 4K billet stall for sale if you’re interested

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post




    FYI; I have a 4K billet stall for sale if you’re interested
    Thanks BK but right now I'm too ignorant of any of this shit to say I need a 4000 stall. I need to play around with present converter as I don't know what it will flash to if I brake at 2200-2400 or so.
    The 26" tires should get me in the 4.20 gear range.

    See, this is where I get confused, a hole shot (mine anyway) will start below the safe zone of nitrous activation. If the nitrous starts on a Wot switch and I'm able to floor it out of the hole, why would this not lead to trouble if below the safe rpm zone for nitrous to kick in?

  7. #7

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    I use a NOS window switch and I have it kick on at about 3300 and kick off at 5800.

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
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    blackknight's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    Thanks BK but right now I'm too ignorant of any of this shit to say I need a 4000 stall. I need to play around with present converter as I don't know what it will flash to if I brake at 2200-2400 or so.
    The 26" tires should get me in the 4.20 gear range.

    See, this is where I get confused, a hole shot (mine anyway) will start below the safe zone of nitrous activation. If the nitrous starts on a Wot switch and I'm able to floor it out of the hole, why would this not lead to trouble if below the safe rpm zone for nitrous to kick in?
    Well, I initially got the higher stall for the spray so I can be more in the parameters, what gears are you running ? My WOT switch (ZEX TPS) worked fine for me

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Well, I initially got the higher stall for the spray so I can be more in the parameters, what gears are you running ? My WOT switch (ZEX TPS) worked fine for me
    Whatever comes with R/T's. 3.90 something. With the 26" tires, it calculates to 4.20 something.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by SynRG View Post
    I use a NOS window switch and I have it kick on at about 3300 and kick off at 5800.

    Syn you ever calculate your timing set back or did you just take out the prescribed 2 per 50 shot for a total of 6 for the 150 boost.

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    Syn you ever calculate your timing set back or did you just take out the prescribed 2 per 50 shot for a total of 6 for the 150 boost.
    I load the nitrous tune from Ryan.

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
    #1222

    r/DodgeDakota

  12. #12
    blackknight's Avatar
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    Nitrous Tune !

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    I would get a NOS mini controller or a Maximizer controller. These are controllers will have your wot, rpm switch and other safeties all built into one unit. Plus you can control ramp and delay time if you need to progress the nitrous. and add a second kit later on

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    I would get a NOS mini controller or a Maximizer controller. These are controllers will have your wot, rpm switch and other safeties all built into one unit. Plus you can control ramp and delay time if you need to progress the nitrous. and add a second kit later on
    You mean one of these? https://www.jegs.com/i/Nitrous+Expre...waAkqkEALw_wcB

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    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    No, thats just a delay controller.
    Im talking more about
    https://www.jegs.com/p/Nitrous-Expre...59597/10002/-1
    or
    https://www.jegs.com/i/NOS/741/25974NOS/10002/-1

  16. #16




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Cal tracs stop axle wrap "snubber" won't do anything on a truck with a bed and with cal tracs isn't needed anyway. You would be better off getting a better shock and setting pinion angle at 3* down.
    Also, there is a difference between static stall and flash stall, best thing to do is hit it with juice on a slick tire (drag radial or slick) and see what the converter flashes to. With a 2800 stall you prolly will only foot brake to 2K rpm before the rear tires would spin or push you through the beams. which means you will have to build engine rpm before nitrous activation. so I would suggest bringing nitrous on at 3K and off at 500 rpm before your rev limit.
    If you need to progressively control a 150 shot then you got work to do to the suspension.
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    niebs, I'm sorry to be a dumbass about this stuff but I'm not understanding what the more expensive controller does over the cheaper one.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    Cal
    If you need to progressively control a 150 shot then you got work to do to the suspension.
    My main point for the progression was one of a softer hit on the engine. That's just what I heard. Don't have anything to back that up.

    In looking at the leaves of more serious Dakotas, I notice they "squat" pretty good. I guess these may have the single mono leaf?

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    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    My main point for the progression was one of a softer hit on the engine. That's just what I heard. Don't have anything to back that up.

    In looking at the leaves of more serious Dakotas, I notice they "squat" pretty good. I guess these may have the single mono leaf?
    Progressives are used for traction issues only, it allows you to come out on less nitrous to start and ramp it in kinda like a boost controller on a turbo set up. Thinking it will be "easier on the engine" is not accurate, you tune matters way more than the amount of nitrous you are spraying. You can melt down a built engine with a 100 shot if that tune is garbage. You can spray a huge amount of nitrous on a stock engine if you tune it properly.
    Also, if anyone ever tells you "rich is safe" on a nitrous tune, never listen to that idiot ever again as they clearly don't understand how an internal combustion engine works....
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    blackknight's Avatar
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    This is why I asked if he was interested in the 4K stall, that’s the reason I went with that one so it could stall up to about 3k and be right in power range, but I’m also running the 210 cam

  21. #21




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    This is why I asked if he was interested in the 4K stall, that’s the reason I went with that one so it could stall up to about 3k and be right in power range, but I’m also running the 210 cam
    4K stall is way to loose for his engine combo, smart thing is to run the correct converter and use a trans brake. I still would prefer the correct converter with a foot brake than running one way to loose for my combo, it would hurt your 60' and mph.
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    4K stall is way to loose for his engine combo, smart thing is to run the correct converter and use a trans brake. I still would prefer the correct converter with a foot brake than running one way to loose for my combo, it would hurt your 60' and mph.
    What do you think about the Mini controller so he has WOT, rpm, and afr safeties in one place?
    Obviously a progressive is not "needed" right now but the combination of it all seems to make sense/save money in the long run.

  23. #23




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    The NOS mini is actually really good for the money and at only $200 it is a bang for the buck deal. Haven't messed with the NX mini they have but being it is from NX I would bet it is just as good as the NOS mini.
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  24. #24

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    Oh boy. Progressions...2 stage...solenoid control.. just put me in an Egyptian pyramid and i have as much chance as understanding hieroglyphs as i do this nitrous crap.

    You have to remember, I'm an old dog. Racing before a lot of you were born (except for Adobe). What comes easy to you guys raised in a tech savvy world is like me learning how to knit yarn.

    Here's what I want: I'm building a box inside the bed for the bottle and a tonneau cover over that. The entire thing to be hidden. No clue exclaiming I have nitrous in my truck including inside the cock pit.
    The least amount of shit in there the better. My plan is for a wet, plate system with bottle opener, a purge button, an activation switch, a heater switch and if I didn't have to be concerned about pressures, I wouldn't even have a gauge showing.
    There is a combo pressure/afr gauge that I can mount on my column that I already have an afr gauge to. The only problem with the combo gauge is that I'm not sure you can tune through it like the gauge I have now.

    I want a completely stealth system in there. Fortunately, the through the hood scoop will hide the solenoids and lines to the TB so opening the hood will give no clue as well.

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