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Thread: Intakes 2020

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    Default Intakes 2020

    So I've been scouring for a while now looking to upgrade the M1 2bbl. Can't seem to find any 4 bbl ones, but looking to ultimately turbo the setup, is the Hughes FI airgap really the best option? Or should I stick with ol' trusty? Any and all opinions are welcome.
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by 308stanger View Post
    So I've been scouring for a while now looking to upgrade the M1 2bbl. Can't seem to find any 4 bbl ones, but looking to ultimately turbo the setup, is the Hughes FI airgap really the best option? Or should I stick with ol' trusty? Any and all opinions are welcome.
    I'd stick with what you have if you have the 2 brl m1. It's purported to flow around 270 cfm's. The 4 brl version is at 280 cfms. The Air Gasp is at 255 and is what I have as M1's when i did my build were like finding a particular needle in a stack of other needles.

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    niebs's Avatar
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    Wish i had a block and heads here to fab a manifold up.

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    Indy 360 intake for a Magnum...Out flows them all.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    I had forgotten about those. Definitely am going to get one, anybody running a 4bbl throttle body? I've looked at the universal ones, but how to get by the TPS?
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 308stanger View Post
    I had forgotten about those. Definitely am going to get one, anybody running a 4bbl throttle body? I've looked at the universal ones, but how to get by the TPS?
    You just may have to repin the tps. Nearly all tps' are 5v referenced.

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    Went through some old posts, and reading up on speedmasters 4bbl, they sell the tps to use, just rewire to our harness. Hipotek and speedmaster FTW!
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    Trick Flow is supposed to be coming out with a manifold to match their 360 heads. Single plane. Old school thought is the intake is supposed to out flow the heads by 20%. Don't know how that fits in the fucked up world of computer tune shit.

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    Yea, I don't get too excited with many things coming out for these engines nowadays. I am now finally getting the cash to start rebuilding/repairing mine but theres little in the aftermarket for what I want/ can afford. So I'm going to start with basics, but buy in the direction of twin turbos. Better flowing intake, 1200 cfm throttle body, turbo comp cam. Then see how she does, eventually working to the heads and internals. If i grenade it before then, oh well, blocks are easy to come by around me.
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    So, putting this out there, anybody want a used M1 2bbl? I'll post in the for sale section once I order the indy 360, but thought I'd check in case there are any dibs
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    SPelf's Avatar
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    I would be interested for a reasonable price. Whixh is getting harder and harder to get out of people as the years go on
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

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    Quote Originally Posted by 308stanger View Post
    Yea, I don't get too excited with many things coming out for these engines nowadays. I am now finally getting the cash to start rebuilding/repairing mine but theres little in the aftermarket for what I want/ can afford. So I'm going to start with basics, but buy in the direction of twin turbos. Better flowing intake, 1200 cfm throttle body, turbo comp cam. Then see how she does, eventually working to the heads and internals. If i grenade it before then, oh well, blocks are easy to come by around me.
    Buy cheap turbos then bc theres a good chance they will be damaged if the motor grenades.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by 308stanger View Post
    Yea, I don't get too excited with many things coming out for these engines nowadays. I am now finally getting the cash to start rebuilding/repairing mine but theres little in the aftermarket for what I want/ can afford. So I'm going to start with basics, but buy in the direction of twin turbos. Better flowing intake, 1200 cfm throttle body, turbo comp cam. Then see how she does, eventually working to the heads and internals. If i grenade it before then, oh well, blocks are easy to come by around me.
    There was a guy on here many years ago (Dana Weisbrot) I think he went by "dyno99" or some sort. Stock bottom end, 218-226 or thereabouts cam, worked Edelbrock heads cut 40 thousandths , worked beer barrel intake, a Hughes Big Mouth tb, 727 tranny (there's .3 to .5 tenths right there) and went 10's with a centrifugal sc set at 12 lbs. He had the truck for 3 years like this without grenading anything. Now the best re-worked original intakes did something like a little under 200 cfms. With your m1, you're doing 270 cfms but the original beer barrel beats the aftermarket intakes in "volume". His truck did 12.7's na. What's this telling us?

    There is more to power output than cfms. Velocity is also key to say nothing of cylinder pressures.. Boost increases velocity and pressures. Successful outcomes with boost rely on a synchronization of the most efficient air in/air out scenarios possible. As a matter of fact in my day (worked on funny car engines back in the mid 60's and campaigned a 1968 SS/E Cobrajet Mustang) there was a saying of "the most amount of air through the smallest holes (valves) possible" He filled up his engine with a lot of air and his intake had high volume. This combo allowed his truck to go rather quickly with nothing exotic at all. In short, boost will make up for a lot of compromises you think you have elsewhere. I'd spend your money on heads.

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    Thanks for the advice! I've been wanting to switch to the 4bbl setup for a while now, but have been seriously considering buying head first. Just a much larger drop in the bucket for them. Hence why I'm going to sell off my M1 to help offset cost. Spelf I can hook you up, what's the going rate for M1s now....$1000??
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    Quote Originally Posted by 308stanger View Post
    Thanks for the advice! I've been wanting to switch to the 4bbl setup for a while now, but have been seriously considering buying head first. Just a much larger drop in the bucket for them. Hence why I'm going to sell off my M1 to help offset cost. Spelf I can hook you up, what's the going rate for M1s now....$1000??
    Did you see that ebay link i posted awhile back?! Something like 1500-2000 the guy was asking lol.
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

    Acts 2:38

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    I remember, so I'm thinking $1400 is a steal compared!
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    Oh how generous of you!
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

    Acts 2:38

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    Hell I'll even throw in the home bored and polished throttle body! Also the kit for factory mounting, obviously I wont need it any more. Just shoot me a pm on an offer. I'm not out to make money, just want to help offset new one.
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    A Twin turbo setup is way overkill for these motors. There were guys back in the day that were lifting the heads on a single power adder (SC or Turbo).
    - Justin


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    Your right, twin 70mm+ might be a bit much, especially stock. But I'm going twin to have a faster spool, something in the t4 size. Duner was running like a t76 single on a stock end pushing around 650 I think. I'm going smaller and faster. If it's not enough I'll go bigger, then if it blows, forged internals afterwards lol!
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by 308stanger View Post
    Your right, twin 70mm+ might be a bit much, especially stock. But I'm going twin to have a faster spool, something in the t4 size. Duner was running like a t76 single on a stock end pushing around 650 I think. I'm going smaller and faster. If it's not enough I'll go bigger, then if it blows, forged internals afterwards lol!
    I'm not gonna sit here and tell you I'm a "boost" expert. Nothing would be further from the truth so you can tell me to stfu as I am strictly and n/a guy.. With all this talk about turbo sizing and just applying what I think would be common sense, wouldn't 8 cylinders helping to spin a turbo, spool a correctly sized turbo as fast or faster than each half of the engine or 4 cylinders trying to spool a smaller turbo? Isn't there technology nowadays to combat slower spooling?

    There was a company near me that advertised a twin turbo set up for Dakotas. Even with two of them, this truck would not get out of the 12's. Plus they had the added expense of installation and up keep of double turbos accompanied by whatever can go wrong with these...twice. This company is no longer in business because their showcase Dakota ended up kind of a dud.

    I will grant that double turbos look cool under the hood but beyond looks, there is the possibility of shooting yourself in the foot with unnecessary complexity for little or no gain.

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    I absolutely see your side. I think most guys here are running a single setup. I've moved my battery to the bed and I'm a weirdo with things looking symmetrical, so I think a turbo on each side of the bay will look sweet! Honestly you're probably right about shooting myself in the foot.
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


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    I think Richard sells a Indy 360 intake already drilled for injectors.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    Thanks Adobe, yea I went to hipotek, and theirs is drilled for injectors with 8an aluminum fuel rails that come with it.
    1999 Dakota R/T
    Shorty Headers, M1 Intake, 5 spd converted, 4" cold air, true dual exhaust


  25. #25
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    The need for Twins is moot on these engines as the main caps will walk on you before you even get close to needing a twin set up. Also nowadays a proper T6 single will spool just as fast if not faster. If you really want to spool fast do a proper compound set up. but its not needed. I estimate the 2 bolt main caps no matter what you do will walk on you around 1k hp; and even faster if you run a 408. Any head design on the Magnum is shit unless you go to indy off set rocker heads because the exhaust valves are in the way of the intake port iirc. Most just over come the shit head design with boost, which is the reason you want a cam with big lift and a bit more intake duration than exhaust.

    I am still no where near some of the knowledge some have in here but, i have done a lot of research on the best way to boost a magnum and i would like to think i have a good idea on it lol.
    99 RT Fully built 365


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