Thinking a sensor should throw a code. Maybe something more basic like a coil, fuel pump, or grounding issue.
Thinking a sensor should throw a code. Maybe something more basic like a coil, fuel pump, or grounding issue.
Mike Williams
#001
98 DA RC GrapeJuice
99 BLK CC (Buy Back)
00 BLK RC ProCharged -Hotchkis - on and on (Sold)
01 AF CC (Leased - Turned in)
Thanks arro. I didnt get a chance to change anything out yet. I am going to start with the cam sensor. I did purchase both the cam and crank sensor. I'll see how it goes.
Evil rt the fuel pump runs and sounds strong. The coil is fairly new or at least that what I was told. Also I did visually inspect all the grounds I could find. I do agree its weird it wont throw a damn code. I had an 88 Dakota that had similar issues. I had to change the pick up about once a year. I got to the point where I just always carried a spare. So I'm going start with that and see what happens
These things were notorious for burning out coils, and typically that’s what it does, coil gets hot and the car/truck won’t run till it cools down
There is a ground I've had a problem with in the past that caused a stalling/no start issue with no codes that sounds similar to your issue. Nothing looked out of place at all, but I broke the thing loose, moved it around a bit, cranked it back down, and it would fire right back up. This went on for a while til I quit being a lazy fuck, took the thing apart, and hit it with a sander to bust more of the corrosion off. It was one of the larger grounds near the driver side cyl head/PS pump area. I'll try to remember to get a pic.
Steve - 1999 Flame Red RC R/T-56
Comp Cams | F&B | Mopar | Spintech | SCT | Hotchkis
The ones that come down to the ac pump, or the one that’s behind the pass side head, might be something to look in to
Ok guys finally got around to working on it. I went ahead and changed the pick up/cam sensor along with cap and rotor since I was already there. Then pulled the crank sensor and noticed the wiring just before the sensor itself looked wrinkled and some of the insulation was slightly cracked. Pretty sure that was the problem. Just fired it up and she sounds good. I noticed it started faster too I hardly cranked it for half a second it fired right up. I want to take it for a spin but it's raining and shitty out.
Yes, let her idle about 30 min. Sounded good no issues
That's good Joe. Also, thank you for following up on the events that led to a "fix". This is most helpful for others experiencing similar issues.
Codes are spurious at best at times with the "onboard computer". It is probably a good idea for anyone with these "electronics" (with some silent swears proceeding this word) to invest in a good scanner in the $200 and up range at least.
I'm a little late updating here but I finally got her out for a ride and she died out a couple miles from home. I fucked with the wiring going to ignition mode and she fired up. Got her home luckily and the wires were very corroded and loose going into the electric connector. My truck has the adapter harness for the ignition module and that was issue. It's an accel harness I believe. I got a new one and have had it out a few times with no issues. Pretty positive at this point that was the issue all along. I'm kinda pissed I didn't check that out first but at the same time not really because everything else I changed out definitely needed it.
Where is this ignition module ? The coil?
Yes sorry I meant the coil haha I was about 6 beers deep when I posted lol.