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Thread: 408 And A 5-Speed - My Dream Build -

  1. #126

    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    Maybe I missed it, but where did you get your kit and what are the specifics of it?
    I got my 408 Kit from Clegg Engines, they gave me a pretty solid deal on a SCAT forged rotating kit (Just ask for the Flyin' Ryan discount). Included King XPN bearings, ICON 4032 forged 23cc dished pistons p/n IC9977, Engine Pro Ductile Plasma Moly Ring set, and 4340 I-beam rods & crank. I had it all internally balanced, lucky for me no mallory metal was required!

    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    You've been around this board for quite awhile. Were you here when Danno & Lloyd were active? Lloyd had a 408 built for his black truck and it lost pressure at idle. IIRC, it was a small oil galley plug behind the cam gear. I hope for your sake it's something simple! I'll do some searches from years ago with Dan & Lloyd's name.
    ...I texted Lloyd to get it first hand. These are the plugs that were left out of his from the machine shop.
    https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...mall-block.12/
    Thank you so much Pat!!! Holy lifesaver man. I was about to tear things apart, at the very least drop the pan and inspect the oil pump. Lloyd reached out to me as well, and I can't thank the both of you guys enough for saving me some trouble.

    Good news is I managed to hook up a manual test gauge and sure enough the pressure at idle on a cold engine is 25-30psi. But once it gets to operating temp it's in the 8-10psi range. Seems that is just on the threshold for the sender and instrument cluster to issue the no pressure light. Good to know at least I was still getting pressure.

    So I guess next step is to drain the fluids and pull the front cover/timing chain and see if those plugs are there. I have a feeling they are not, I looked back at some photos and it appears those front plugs are missing.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  2. #127

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    I texted Lloyd to get it first hand. These are the plugs that were left out of his from the machine shop.
    https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...mall-block.12/
    y

    I was looking through my Big inch Small Block Mopar book last night and there are other "hidden" plugs. There is one in the distributor hole, one under the main cap the oil pump goes on and some behind the oil filter housing. Do you have a rebuild book to find all the plugs? It my
    be one missing you can get to without tearing down the engine.

  3. #128

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    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    y

    I was looking through my Big inch Small Block Mopar book last night and there are other "hidden" plugs. There is one in the distributor hole, one under the main cap the oil pump goes on and some behind the oil filter housing. Do you have a rebuild book to find all the plugs? It my
    be one missing you can get to without tearing down the engine.
    Yes thanks I actually have the magnum v8 rebuild book by Larry Shepard, I read up on all the plugs and I know what you are saying. Luckily I confirmed I have all the other oil plugs installed correctly. Thanks for looking out!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  4. #129

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Yes thanks I actually have the magnum v8 rebuild book by Larry Shepard, I read up on all the plugs and I know what you are saying. Luckily I confirmed I have all the other oil plugs installed correctly. Thanks for looking out!
    Good luck, sorry you have pull the front back off. Keep us informed, I have a 408 build in my future.

  5. #130


    99dart's Avatar
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    No Problems, Mon! I'm really glad I popped in here and read your post! Your progress is the only reason I have been checking here! Lloyd is a great guy! I'm glad he helped you out, too.

    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post

    Thank you so much Pat!!! Holy lifesaver man. I was about to tear things apart, at the very least drop the pan and inspect the oil pump. Lloyd reached out to me as well, and I can't thank the both of you guys enough for saving me some trouble.

    Good news is I managed to hook up a manual test gauge and sure enough the pressure at idle on a cold engine is 25-30psi. But once it gets to operating temp it's in the 8-10psi range. Seems that is just on the threshold for the sender and instrument cluster to issue the no pressure light. Good to know at least I was still getting pressure.

    So I guess next step is to drain the fluids and pull the front cover/timing chain and see if those plugs are there. I have a feeling they are not, I looked back at some photos and it appears those front plugs are missing.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  6. #131

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    No Problems, Mon! I'm really glad I popped in here and read your post! Your progress is the only reason I have been checking here! Lloyd is a great guy! I'm glad he helped you out, too.
    Lol, thanks dude honestly I'm just finally getting around to catching up with some of these OG dudes such as yourself. Enjoyed the truck as mostly stock for a long time, but will be fun to see how she wakes up!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  7. #132

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    So here's a quick 5 min video update of running the engine with the manual oil pressure test gauge. Warning you may want to turn down your volume, esp. if wearing headphones lol, but you can see the symptoms, and how the pressure drops relative to engine/oil temperature.



    I've also been busy on a little gift for the neighbors, and temporarily rigged up a muffler out of a Porsche Cayenne SUV. I'm calling it my "Basic-Bee" exhaust mod, for the fancy latte sippin people out there who can't handle all the herspurrss dialed up to 11


    While it's just a temporary solution, ideally I'd like to have a setup with diverters/cutouts for cruising mode to full-bore mode. I think the size and shape of this muffler also fits rather nicely if tucked up under the spare tire area. Preliminary tests while hard to tell in a video, has definitely made a huge difference on attenuating a lot of the low-end bass frequencies. I just needed to simply adapt from 2.5" to 3".




    Getting a little bit better with my MIG practice

    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  8. #133

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    So here's a quick 5 min video update of running the engine with the manual oil pressure test gauge. Warning you may want to turn down your volume, esp. if wearing headphones lol, but you can see the symptoms, and how the pressure drops relative to engine/oil temperature.



    I've also been busy on a little gift for the neighbors, and temporarily rigged up a muffler out of a Porsche Cayenne SUV. I'm calling it my "Basic-Bee" exhaust mod, for the fancy latte sippin people out there who can't handle all the herspurrss dialed up to 11


    While it's just a temporary solution, ideally I'd like to have a setup with diverters/cutouts for cruising mode to full-bore mode. I think the size and shape of this muffler also fits rather nicely if tucked up under the spare tire area. Preliminary tests while hard to tell in a video, has definitely made a huge difference on attenuating a lot of the low-end bass frequencies. I just needed to simply adapt from 2.5" to 3".




    Getting a little bit better with my MIG practice

    Nice job, can't wait to see it done and hear it. I have the full SpinTech with the side exit before the wheel and it's too loud for me. First, I'm going to try Flowtech Warlocks and just replace the Spintech mufflers and keep the side exit (open the bypass tubes for the track). If it is still too loud for my street driving, I'm going to try a 2 into 1 and run a single 3" pipe to exit behind the wheel. Long term would be to put electric cutouts on the bypass tubes.

  9. #134

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    you know what sounds really good and has almost no restriction, reasonably quiet at idle and light throttle, and sounds really good but not obnoxious at WOT ? A Y pipe into 3" pipe then into a 3" in/out Dyanomax Ultra Flow with a single 3" tailpipe. Basically it's a stock exhaust with a good muffler and no cats. a wise man once told me that if you can't drop a golf ball through a muffler, it is restrictive. That was RobbMc...

    https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/ult...-centered.html
    1941 Dodge 1/2 ton, 493 twin turbo, EFI, 727, 4 wheel disc brakes, custom triangulated 4 link, DANA 60, Gleason Torsen diff,

    2002 Dakota R/T RC, PX8, PPH Headers, K&N FIPK, Hotchkis TVS, 20" R/T chrome rims, BFG G-Force T/A KDW 275/35 ZR20 tires, Kenwood head unit, Kenwood speakers, RF amp, 8" RF Punch Z subs

    1998 Dakota RC daily driver 5.9L, AX-15 5 speed, Hooker long tube headers, FRP tune

  10. #135

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    once my 493 stroker is fully warmed up (at least 10 minutes of run time) it has low oil pressure when it's under 800 rpm. But that is due to the aluminum main caps expanding when they warm up.
    1941 Dodge 1/2 ton, 493 twin turbo, EFI, 727, 4 wheel disc brakes, custom triangulated 4 link, DANA 60, Gleason Torsen diff,

    2002 Dakota R/T RC, PX8, PPH Headers, K&N FIPK, Hotchkis TVS, 20" R/T chrome rims, BFG G-Force T/A KDW 275/35 ZR20 tires, Kenwood head unit, Kenwood speakers, RF amp, 8" RF Punch Z subs

    1998 Dakota RC daily driver 5.9L, AX-15 5 speed, Hooker long tube headers, FRP tune

  11. #136


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    [QUOTE=wedged;534737]you know what sounds really good and has almost no restriction, reasonably quiet at idle and light throttle, and sounds really good but not obnoxious at WOT ? A Y pipe into 3" pipe then into a 3" in/out Dyanomax Ultra Flow with a single 3" tailpipe. Basically it's a stock exhaust with a good muffler and no cats. a wise man once told me that if you can't drop a golf ball through a muffler, it is restrictive. That was RobbMc...

    Way back when I did my first exhaust change. I snagged a second used stock Dyno-max (from club member free) and did true duals (no cats) both exiting the stock location. It sounded pretty nice.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  12. #137


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    Whoa...The pictures make that muffler look like a gas tank! LOL But, I like your thinking! Something different...outside that overused box.

    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    So here's a quick 5 min video update of running the engine with the manual oil pressure test gauge. Warning you may want to turn down your volume, esp. if wearing headphones lol, but you can see the symptoms, and how the pressure drops relative to engine/oil temperature.



    I've also been busy on a little gift for the neighbors, and temporarily rigged up a muffler out of a Porsche Cayenne SUV. I'm calling it my "Basic-Bee" exhaust mod, for the fancy latte sippin people out there who can't handle all the herspurrss dialed up to 11


    While it's just a temporary solution, ideally I'd like to have a setup with diverters/cutouts for cruising mode to full-bore mode. I think the size and shape of this muffler also fits rather nicely if tucked up under the spare tire area. Preliminary tests while hard to tell in a video, has definitely made a huge difference on attenuating a lot of the low-end bass frequencies. I just needed to simply adapt from 2.5" to 3".

    Getting a little bit better with my MIG practice.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  13. #138

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Whoa...The pictures make that muffler look like a gas tank! LOL But, I like your thinking! Something different...outside that overused box.
    Lol! Yeah it's about as big haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by wedged View Post
    you know what sounds really good and has almost no restriction, reasonably quiet at idle and light throttle, and sounds really good but not obnoxious at WOT ? A Y pipe into 3" pipe then into a 3" in/out Dyanomax Ultra Flow with a single 3" tailpipe. Basically it's a stock exhaust with a good muffler and no cats. a wise man once told me that if you can't drop a golf ball through a muffler, it is restrictive. That was RobbMc...

    https://www.dynomax.com/mufflers/ult...-centered.html
    Thanks for that info, Dynomax definitely a quality brand, I might give that a shot I know I'll be experimenting more its in my nature lol.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  14. #139

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    Default Confirmed missing oil plugs

    Took apart the timing set and it revealed I indeed was missing the oil gallery plugs. All fixed up now thanks again to Pat and Lloyd!

    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  15. #140

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    Smoking gun...glad you found the problem.

  16. #141
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    Sweet ! Glad you got it fixed

  17. #142


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    WooHoo! SOoooooo glad it was a (relatively) easy fix!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  18. #143

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    ook apart the timing set and it revealed I indeed was missing the oil gallery plugs. All fixed up now thanks again to Pat and Lloyd!

  19. #144

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    WooHoo! SOoooooo glad it was a (relatively) easy fix!
    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Sweet ! Glad you got it fixed
    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    Smoking gun...glad you found the problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Thanks all, yes very relieved that it was a simple fix, sucks to open things up again but not bad considering the alternatives in my brain. I got things almost all back together, but it was freezing ass cold out today. Tomorrow's supposed to be much warmer and anticipate having it back up and running!


    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  20. #145

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    Got it back up and running yesterday, oil looks perfect!!



    Got 15 pounds at idle now, much better!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  21. #146

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    Got it back up and running yesterday, oil looks perfect!!
    Cool! What kind of vacuum are you getting at idle?

  22. #147

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    Were you running a T off the stock gauge source? It looked like the stock gauge was showing higher than 15 psi.

  23. #148

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    Cool! What kind of vacuum are you getting at idle?
    Hmm so I checked the engine vacuum @ warm idle and it's only like 6" lol. Revving it up a bit and it hits around 15-16" max. Thoughts?

    Quote Originally Posted by musky mike View Post
    Were you running a T off the stock gauge source? It looked like the stock gauge was showing higher than 15 psi.
    Yep, I just threw a 1/8NPT TEE and attached both the sender and gauge, interestingly my sender went to zero again but this time on a cold start. I believe the sender was out of range again (this time on the upper limit) because the mechanical gauge was showing like 85-90PSI on the cold engine! In other words the gauge on the dash is pretty inaccurate, the range from the middle mark (40) is definitely not to scale lol.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  24. #149

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    Hmm so I checked the engine vacuum @ warm idle and it's only like 6" lol. Revving it up a bit and it hits around 15-16" max. Thoughts?
    Lumpy cam. I thought the vacuum might be a little higher, but even so, you may need to add a vacuum motor to your brake system. I am planning on doing that to mine when I have the time.

  25. #150

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    JDream what's that engine cooling fan you're using? Did it come w a shroud or you make that?

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