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Thread: 408 And A 5-Speed - My Dream Build -

  1. #26


    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wideopen View Post
    Must be that roadrunner beep beep horn attracting them
    Lol
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  2. #27


    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Update:

    Got the week off of work, self isolation from corona virus has been going great so far. I got all the brake lines changed out to stainless. I also started neatening up some wiring on the truck, and removing the rest of the alarm harness I regretfully had installed a few years back. The alarm/remote start system was nice when it worked, but I really did regret having it done after seeing all the taped up splice work

    Before


    After
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  3. #28
    silversub's Avatar
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    Awesome build!
    '03 R/T CC - 1969 440 - 0.040" over, 10.73:1 static
    Forged crank | Molnar billet rods | Diamond Racing forged pistons | Fluidampr | Meziere 35gpm | Performer RPM | Brawler 750cfm | Whiplash cam | Aeromotive 90gph | MSD HVC

  4. #29


    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silversub View Post
    Awesome build!
    Thank you silversub!

    Today I decided to dismantle the interior and the dash. I needed to do this in order to really work on the pedal assembly, along with all the wiring I'm straightening out.
    I'm also debating about pulling the dash out completely, I can do a refresh of the evaporator core while I'm this far I figure. Thinking I might swap the carpet out to new too even though it's not too bad. If I can find black carpet for the right price I might just spring for it.

    Here are some progress pics:



    Alarm wiring/Remote Start remnants to fix...gotta love tape splices on 30A starting circuits


    First step to any manual conversion is the removal of the 'Ol lazy stick:


    So here we have the two pedal assemblies. I noticed that the donor manual pedal assembly bucket is a slightly different casting. So not taking chances I decided to swap all the hardware over to my original piece.


    I cleaned all the parts up with alcohol (because you can't be too sterile these days). Then I lubed up the shaft, bushings and pedals with new grease. I used a special lubricant I had laying around that's perfect for this sort of thing, Mercury Marine lube #101. It's formulated with Teflon and is a nice thick and tacky grease which should last a lifetime.







    ...and bingo!




    And here's a quick shot from the other side of the firewall. I did end up pulling the entire steering column and brake booster assembly. Gave me better access to install the clutch master hydraulics.


    I'm thinking I may also want to freshen up the steering linkage, It did have an annoying creaking sound to it.
    The flange bearing thing I'm talking about is pictured here:


    So yep, this truck is going to be brand new when I'm done with her lol! Not sure If I can get away with just replacing the steering shaft firewall bearing. Time to start building up a RockAuto shopping cart!
    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 04-03-2020 at 05:57 PM. Reason: Fixed broken picture links
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  5. #30


    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    So I'm shopping on RockAuto. I'm looking to replace my rear axle pinion yoke to something strong. Anyone know if this is a good unit? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...4003&jsn=10481
    Says it's forged and it has U-straps instead of threaded bosses.
    Thanks!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  6. #31
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    Dam man, nice work!

  7. #32


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    Painted some stuff...

    The weather here lately has been really nice past two days. Decided to use it to my advantage and painted up my brake booster, the brake line frame adapter bracket, rear sway bar, and the inside of the QuickTime Bellhousing. I had some old Kirker urethane automotive paint kicking around that I'd like to use up. So I first epoxy primed with Kirker's DTM (direct to metal) primer, then when over it with the single stage urethane gloss black. I had issues with the topcoat not spraying right, I had a feeling it was too thick and needed reducer, but of course I didn't have any . I'll have to maybe sand the texture out of it and then clear over it.





    The inside of the bell had some shipping damage with the flywheel teeth chipping some paint. This is it just primed.


    Rear sway bar primed:


    That's all for updates today..
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  8. #33
    nitroram33's Avatar
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  9. #34



    99dart's Avatar
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    Lookin' good!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103 new 365 C.I (guessatune
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  10. #35


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    So the latest is I found out I'm furloughed from my job due to the virus at least until the 15th, but likely the rest of the month. I decided to take more things apart now that I have the opportunity to really get in there and do things right. Shit's certainly getting real Let's hope I remember where every screw and clip goes putting it all back!











    As you can see, yesterday I pulled everything on the front end apart and cleaned the crap out of the engine bay & frame. I used a combination of bushes, the cordless drill wire wheel, and 3M red scotch brite pads. I first used a 1:1 mix of simple green degreaser and power washed it all, then when to scrubbing lol.
    So I'm pretty sure I'm going to shoot it all matte black for simplicity's sake and for that old school muscle look. I think having the engine bay a neutral color will be good in the future too if I ever decide to color change the truck.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  11. #36
    niebs's Avatar
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    Looking good!

  12. #37
    Mark's Avatar
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    I just have to ask, do you live in a apartment complex?
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  13. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    So the latest is I found out I'm furloughed from my job due to the virus at least until the 15th, but likely the rest of the month. I decided to take more things apart now that I have the opportunity to really get in there and do things right. Shit's certainly getting real Let's hope I remember where every screw and clip goes putting it all back!











    As you can see, yesterday I pulled everything on the front end apart and cleaned the crap out of the engine bay & frame. I used a combination of bushes, the cordless drill wire wheel, and 3M red scotch brite pads. I first used a 1:1 mix of simple green degreaser and power washed it all, then when to scrubbing lol.
    So I'm pretty sure I'm going to shoot it all matte black for simplicity's sake and for that old school muscle look. I think having the engine bay a neutral color will be good in the future too if I ever decide to color change the truck.
    I'd shoot it gloss black. Black is dull by nature so all that area needs some "livening up" in my opinion that gloss can provide. Might be a bit easier to keep clean as well. Must admit I'm so NOT a fan of those all matte colored cars you see these days so I am definitely biased. Great job you're doing btw

  14. #39


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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    I just have to ask, do you live in a apartment complex?
    lol noo, no way an apartment complex would allow this sort of work to go down, I'd be kicked out in a heartbeat. Working in my driveway and out of my harbor freight garage/tent which is starting to fall apart. Goal is to finish the truck before the darn thing caves in

    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    I'd shoot it gloss black. Black is dull by nature so all that area needs some "livening up" in my opinion that gloss can provide. Might be a bit easier to keep clean as well. Must admit I'm so NOT a fan of those all matte colored cars you see these days so I am definitely biased. Great job you're doing btw
    arro, yes I suppose I agree since wouldn't you know I changed my mind before even reading your reply lol. I decided to instead shoot the bay with a dark metallic gray, the color I picked is actually Chrysler color code PAU - Granite Crystal Metallic. I'm really happy with my color choice and the results! The glossy metallic definitely gives it a bit more pop now Pics to follow...
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  15. #40


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    Well it was a lot of work but finally got the engine bay painting complete. I really hate all the work that goes into prepping for paint (about 3 full days worth lol) but I have to admit I'm glad I decided to go through with the effort. While I was at it I enlarged the upper control arm crossbar alignment slots on the frame. I fixed minor rust spots that were starting to form around the passenger inner fender-to-firewall bracket (caused by leaking windshield washer reservoir), and also around the A/C condensate drain.

    Here's some shots of the bay primed in epoxy DTM primer:




    After two coats of primer, I then gave the frame and inner fender areas two coats of single stage semi-gloss black urethane. After a few hours of curing time I then masked it off for shooting the bay...


    Mixed up some single stage PPG OMNI in Chrysler's Granite Crystal Metallic:


    Also picked up a new gun, another HF special but their Spectrum line HTE with the 1.3mm tip which worked like a charm!


    So here are the finished results, not perfect has a bit of texture in places and a minor run or two, but overall very satisfied. Let me know what you guys think!

    Night shots right after I finished spraying...




    Next day in overcast daylight


    Lastly a little video I put together showing results up close:
    Last edited by JDreamR/T; 04-10-2020 at 04:44 PM. Reason: added video
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red
    S.S. Grille / Bi-xenon Headlights / M1 2bbl / Magnum VC's / GC eFan / Shaker / WC 2-3 drop

  16. #41

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    That looks freakin super. It looks so good it makes me want to shoot it with 3 coats of clear.

  17. #42


    JDreamR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    That looks freakin super. It looks so good it makes me want to shoot it with 3 coats of clear.
    Thanks man, so when can you put those 3 coats of clear on for me?

  18. #43



    99dart's Avatar
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    Lookin' really nice! I wanted to mention Van Sickle Paint. (for other under body painting. My son and his buddies use it on their rock crawlers. He says it holds up very well. We scuffed & painted his engine bay on his black R/T before dropping in the new engine. He used a semi-gloss. Turned out nice.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103 new 365 C.I (guessatune
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

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