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Thread: 408 And A 5-Speed - My Dream Build -

  1. #76
    SPelf's Avatar
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    Keep the updates coming!
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

    Acts 2:38

  2. #77

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    All done guys what do think? Bench racing bets on 1/4 mi ETs?

    https://youtu.be/qRrDc0e01NM
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  3. #78
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    Hahaha �� good one

  4. #79

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    Alright alright here's the real video!

    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  5. #80
    SPelf's Avatar
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    Sounds great bud! Bet it feels great to hear it fire up after all that work. Did Ryan do your tuning?
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

    Acts 2:38

  6. #81


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    Alright! Great job! Sounds good!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  7. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by SPelf View Post
    Sounds great bud! Bet it feels great to hear it fire up after all that work. Did Ryan do your tuning?
    Yup Ryan came through with the base tune. I need to get it registered and finish up the brakes and interior to datalog next! Still need to check the Cam Sync too.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  8. #83

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Alright! Great job! Sounds good!
    Thanks buddy! Feels great to get to this stage finally!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  9. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Alright alright here's the real video!

    Yea!. She's about done. Does sound nice. Hope she go's as good. Mid 12's n/a I'd guess.

  10. #85


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    BTW... You're doing all this OUTSIDE!?!? Kudos Man! Shouldn't you have snow & sub-freezing weather??!!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  11. #86
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    Dammm that sounds good ! Pat I was about to say something about the weather, I’m jealous !

  12. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    BTW... You're doing all this OUTSIDE!?!? Kudos Man! Shouldn't you have snow & sub-freezing weather??!!
    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Dammm that sounds good ! Pat I was about to say something about the weather, I’m jealous !
    No snow luckily but freezing my balls weather, and no garage sucks, but I can't stop the show must go on lol.

    I'll have to try and post more pics or maybe a video update soon of all the work done with the TKO and so forth.

    Thanks guys! I freaking love the chop cant wait to get a dyno session.
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  13. #88

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    Thanks guys! I freaking love the chop cant wait to get a dyno session.
    Sounds good! I ordered the same cam grind with a tad more lift for my engine.

    I too have spend many days working on my vehicles in the Michigan cold. I sure am glad I have a heated garage now. lol

  14. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by JDreamR/T View Post
    Alright alright here's the real video!

    You have the same engine "whistle" as I do. Can't find a vacuum leak. Wondering if they all sound this way for some reason with mods as I don't recall the whistle when it was stock.

  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by arro222 View Post
    You have the same engine "whistle" as I do. Can't find a vacuum leak. Wondering if they all sound this way for some reason with mods as I don't recall the whistle when it was stock.
    Mine does the same, goes away after its up to temp. May be wrong but i always thought it was the IAC. Maybe something to do with it and our larger throttle bodies????
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red. Bolt ons, Built Trans.
    Dynotune Nitrous Wet system, 100 shot, FRP tuned. (SOLD! Gone but never forgotten)

    Acts 2:38

  16. #91
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    Yea mine is loud as hell, of course I have the 5/6” k&n with k&n top, but after it warms up it goes away

  17. #92

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    You have the same engine "whistle" as I do. Can't find a vacuum leak. Wondering if they all sound this way for some reason with mods as I don't recall the whistle when it was stock.
    Mine does the same, goes away after its up to temp. May be wrong but i always thought it was the IAC. Maybe something to do with it and our larger throttle bodies????
    Yea mine is loud as hell, of course I have the 5/6” k&n with k&n top, but after it warms up it goes away
    You need to adjust what is called, the "IAC counts". The throttle body is a mechanical unit that merely opens and closes to adjust your speed. The idle is controlled by the PCM and the IAC motor. The whistling through the IAC port, idle hanging up when coming to a stop, or stalling when coming to a stop, is the inability of the PCM and IAC motor to control the idle, within the time it has to do so. It is typically not the mechanical portion of the throttle body. Opening the throttle plates more, thereby allowing more air to pass through the throttle body bores, while still remaining at idle, should cure these issues. Doing so means the IAC motor doesn't have to swing so far one way (open), and so far the other way (closed), in order to control the idle. Modifications to the engine that change the flow from stock confuse the PCM, but most people blame the throttle body because they don't understand what is going on with the system. It is not always an easy chore to accomplish. It can take several attempts at a seemingly fruitless exercise to get it right. The easiest time I had adjusting the IAC counts was with my dual throttle body tunnel ram. Since there are two throttle bodies passing more at idle, the IAC motor doesn't have to work so hard swinging one way, and then the other, while trying to control the idle. No whistling there.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbkwFjqnzfE

  18. #93

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    Does the Fastman's have some type of set screw for this or do you have to enlarge the hole on the plate?
    I've tried increasing the idle but I must be doing it wrong cuz it always comes back to 650 rpms.

  19. #94

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    I agree, I thought the same thing I thought I had a vacuum hose disconnected or something. But what Richard described makes sense, it also doesn't help that there's no filter installed in my video and it's winter here lol. Honestly it idled surprisingly well (thanks to FRP) Ryan must have that IAC dialed in pretty good!
    1999 R/T CC Flame Red (what's left of the paint)
    //SHAKER// 408 Forged // TKO600 5spd // Spintech-Mids // HiPoTek 106 LOPEYCAM // FRP Tuned //

  20. #95

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    To add to Richard's instructions. Engine needs to be warmed up and in closed loop, put your thumb over the IAC air port. If it stalls then you need to open the throttle plates. Adjust to about to 650-700 idles with the port plugged.
    Mike Williams
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  21. #96

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    Quote Originally Posted by evilrt View Post
    To add to Richard's instructions. Engine needs to be warmed up and in closed loop, put your thumb over the IAC air port. If it stalls then you need to open the throttle plates. Adjust to about to 650-700 idles with the port plugged.
    Do you have to unplug the ECM afterward to clear its memory?

  22. #97

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    o add to Richard's instructions. Engine needs to be warmed up and in closed loop, put your thumb over the IAC air port. If it stalls then you need to open the throttle plates. Adjust to about to 650-700 idles with the port plugged.
    Correct!

  23. #98

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    Do you have to unplug the ECM afterward to clear its memory?
    Doing so will speed up the PCM learning process. Otherwise, it may take a few tanks of gas for it to go through the learning process.

  24. #99

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    These are the IAC instructions I provide with the HiPoTek throttle bodies:

    Setting the IAC Counts (Steps):

    With the engine idling at operating temperature (closed loop), place two fingers over the IAC port in order to block it off. (Placing a folded rubber glove between your fingers and the port helps create a better seal.) The engine will almost stall. (If it does stall, you may turn the throttle plate adjusting screw clockwise a bit just to keep it from stalling while you complete the adjustment.)


    Blocking the IAC Port with Your Fingers


    Throttle Plate Adjusting screw

    Now turn the throttle plate adjusting screw (using a T-25 torx socket) clockwise so the rpm increases to the idle rpm set in the computer. Stock is around 650 rpm. Performance engines may have a higher rpm flashed into the computer, usually around 800-900 rpm. Once you reach the desired rpm by turning the throttle plate adjusting screw clockwise, remove your fingers from the IAC port so it can suck in air. The rpm will rise momentarily and then settle back down. (If the rpm doesn’t come back down, turn the engine off and restart it. It should be fine after that.) It may take a few times adjusting it, but this will help with a whistling IAC, stalling when coming to a stop, the idle hanging up when coming to a stop, and/or an erratic idle. If you have an adjustable TPS sensor, set it at this time to between .7 and .75 volts. Your engine may like a little more or less but those voltage settings are a good place to start. If you don’t have an adjustable TPS sensor (all stock sensors are nonadjustable) don’t worry about that adjustment. Then, reset your computer.

    To reset the computer, there are a number of methods, and I will explain a few of them:

    1. Disconnect the computer or battery for 20 minutes or more (some recommend over night).
    2. Disconnect the negative battery cable, turn the ignition key on, leave for approximately 5 minutes (minimum) or preferably 30 minutes or more, then turn the key off, and reconnect the negative battery cable.
    3. Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables, touch them together (while not connected to the battery) and then reconnect them to the battery.



    www.hi-potek.com
    Email: Richard@hi-potek.com

  25. #100

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    Note: The Mopar performance PCM instructions stated to use a 165-degree thermostat. However, the engine needs to warm up to about 180-degrees before it will go into closed loop. Therefore, I use a 180-degree thermostat.

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