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Thread: New brake lines

  1. #1

    Default New brake lines

    Hey everyone,

    I'm have a new problem. My brake lines are rusted out and need replaced. All the lines in the back of the truck and the one line that feeds the rear from the front, are rusted out.

    I've called the dealership, advanced auto, and Napa. No go. So I'm guessing the next step is make my own 3/6" nickel copper lines. Unless someone knows who has the parts.

    Also, the most important line is the one that feeds from the front to the back. That's the one that just broke.
    Last edited by ChrisDockman; 08-24-2019 at 03:45 PM.

  2. #2
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    https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/pro...9|DODGE|DAKOTA

    Try them. They are stainless steel lines and would outlast the truck going forward.

  3. #3

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    Thanks Dhorne. This is what I was looking for. I'm glad to see they offer stainless steel. I'll let you know how accurate the fitment is once I install them.
    Last edited by ChrisDockman; 08-25-2019 at 08:46 PM.

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    99dart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DHorne View Post
    https://www.inlinetube.com/pages/pro...9|DODGE|DAKOTA

    Try them. They are stainless steel lines and would outlast the truck going forward.
    That link is a pretty good looking business. I just saved it.
    99 DA CC R/T
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    GoFastGray's Avatar
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    Also bookmarked them
    12.10@106@Famoso Raceway

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    I have used them in the past for my 89 4Runner and they were exactly the same as stock. You will need to straighten up one section or 2 of the long line (Front to back) but they mark it exactly where to straighten them up. They bend it for packaging purpose and you just bend it slowly holding the 2 marks until the line is straight between those two marks.

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    Definitely go with the NiCop if you don't mind doing it yourself. It's literally corrosion proof, and is much easier to bend by hand and flare than steel lines. It's pretty much all good shops use in New York and the likes.

    -Justin

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    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Another bookmark here.

    I am considering pulling my engine this winter to replace the block core plugs, that would be the perfect time to replace the brake line at the front cross member.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  9. #9
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    saved here too. I need to do my engine bay lines as well.

  10. #10

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    I know southeastrt offers custom stainless steel brake lines.

  11. #11

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    Okay so here's my writeup.

    The Inline Tube company (ITC) sold me a legit product. Fit was a little off, but nothing we couldn't handle.

    What I would do assuming you wanted to repair the truck in a timely manner with as little fuss as possible is,

    Purchase this,

    Inline Tube Companies product that fits your truck.

    NiCu brake lines from Amazon.

    Brake line shielding from Amazon

    You'll need the straight tubing and shielding for the long run that goes from the front of the truck to the back bulkhead fitting. I call it a bulkhead, probably has a different name as well. It's the fitting that has a mount in the center of the fitting that hold the fitting to the truck.

    That bulkhead fitting has a flex line that goes to a tee (in the back). That tee divides that single brake line between both brake drums. Note, the kit from Inline Tube company doesn't come with the rubber brake lines that connect the bulkhead fitting to the distribution tee. Just sayin!

    So repairing the two brake lines from the tee to the drums is self explanatory. If you work on cars, your good.

    Now, the line that ITC gave you that goes from the front of the truck to the back of the truck. That line is a squiggly little B$#%&sterd. Disregard this brake line.

    There's no way in hell your going to get this line to feed behind the gas tank, in the frame rail, and to the front of the truck for a clean installation. Ain't going to happen.

    The only reason you would use this line is because you're dropping the gas tank to install a new fuel pump. If your fuel pump is fine, you most likely don't want to drop it. Or you read this write up, said to yourself, shit man my fuel pump is old as dirt, and decided your going to do both jobs at the same time. If your going to do both jobs at the same time, then this line will be fine to use.

    Next remove the carbon canister, 3 bolts.

    Next, get the transmission jack under the fuel tank. remove the strap mounting bolts completely.

    Move the fuel tanks till it touches the driveshaft.

    Next wedge a crowbar or something like a crow bar in between the fuel tank and the frame. Now you can access the brake line fastener bolts located in the frame.

    Take the brake line fasteners out and throw the brake line in the trash where it belongs.

    Next, feed the NiCu brake line through the frame after you install the shielding on the brake lines and cut the ends so you have plenty of slack to work with.

    If you don't have a flare tool, and your reading this, your screwed....

    Next flare the brake lines and install them into the bulkhead fitting in the back and front of the vehicle. Note!!!!!!!, the fitting that is next to the firewall in the front of the truck... that fitting you want to keep and re-use. It's a little longer than the one that comes in the NiCu coil kit from Amazon.

    If you tossed the fitting or stripped the fitting taking it out, don't worry too much, I did as well and the shorter fitting will work. It just bottoms out, almost. Still will work though.

    Put the fasteners on the brake line. Install the gas tank, and carbon canister back into their original spots.

    That's it fellas!

    If you do it this way, should take you ~2 hours.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisDockman View Post
    Purchase this,

    Inline Tube Companies product that fits your truck.

    NiCu brake lines from Amazon.

    Brake line shielding from Amazon
    First suggested link under that NiCop line is the same kit with the shielding included for quite a bit cheaper
    Complete kit from Amazon

    Doing the whole truck in NiCop would be possible with the 25 ft, maybe slightly more. That's what I would do. I assume that taking the bed off would make snaking that line in the frame rail a bit easier. That's what I'm going to do when I get around to it.

    -Justin

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by xjsc16x View Post
    First suggested link under that NiCop line is the same kit with the shielding included for quite a bit cheaper
    Complete kit from Amazon

    Doing the whole truck in NiCop would be possible with the 25 ft, maybe slightly more. That's what I would do. I assume that taking the bed off would make snaking that line in the frame rail a bit easier. That's what I'm going to do when I get around to it.

    -Justin
    Good find. That should save you some jing.

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