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Thread: Crate engine vs. top end kit

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    Post Crate engine vs. top end kit

    I've been back and forth on this for the past month or so. Every week I change my mind. The cost appears to be similar with the crate motor maybe costing just a bit more. It seems to me I'd get a lot more bang for the buck by going with this: https://www.performanceinjectionequi...njected-street vs a topend kit that still would end up costing me at least 3k with no where near the gains in hp and torque.

    Can anyone chime in on PIE's engines and top end kits? Both seem like good choices depending on how much $ I want to drop. I don't plan on racing the truck. Just a dependable driver and fast enough to surprise (by shitting their pants) people at the red light now and again.

    Thanks,
    Landon

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    I don't think that "dependable" and "PIE" are often used together in the same sentence. Some have had OK luck with them while others have turned into very expensive headaches.

    '99 Custom R/T --1.92 heads, m1 2bbl, 52mm f&b, Mike Leach headers, Mopar 2400 stall, 4.56 rear, Comp cams custom grind cam, 1.6 roller rockers, K&N FIPK, Mopar PCM, MSD 6A, 24lbs injectors, APS trans, Flex-a-lite 180 fan

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    You take your chances with just about anyone's "crate" engine. Some are really slopped up but the internet is loaded with these 5 and 6K engines. Short cuts are made to get to these figures in my mind. I'd be suspect on pricing alone. You cannot believe the short comings found in some of these engines. A good engine should be in the 8-10K range.
    Reliability of the producer is key and if it becomes a 50-50% proposition of success, I'd stay away.
    Another alternative is to have your rings honed on your engine, put in a top end buying the pieces separately and putting a centrifugal sc on it and produce over 500 hp for about 8K and less than that if you go to a Torque Storm supercharger. At least you're starting with your own engine from the factory.

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    99dart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nitrohog View Post
    I don't think that "dependable" and "PIE" are often used together in the same sentence. Some have had OK luck with them while others have turned into very expensive headaches.
    I'm going agree w/Nitrohog here. There have been numerous guys with failed "PIE" builds. If you have a racetrack (circle, drag or otherwise) go talk to the guys with Mopar's. Get a name or names of machine shop/engine builders in your area. Talk to them about your end goal for your engine/R/T. If you decide on a complete engine build get yourself another engine to tear down. It's amazing how long it takes to find and receive all the parts, get the machine work done, then wait while someone else builds the engine. I hope the advise from us guys here helps you come up with the perfect build for you.
    99 DA CC R/T
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    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
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    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  5. #5

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    The only “Crate” engine I would purchase would be direct from the factory otherwise know a good engine builder machinist.

    Whiplash Engine & Machine, FRP Tuned
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

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    Thanks guys. Good advice. Just what I needed to hear.

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    I have a PIE engine ive had for years that i purchas ed off another member who put his own miles on it. (Knocks on wood) no mechanical problems on their part. He had it tuned by them and i have a little too rich hemifever tune.

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    What's wrong with the engine you have now / how many miles? Stay SBE, throw a set of EQs / intake / cam on it, get it tuned and call it a day. Having a shop throw bearings and rings in your block isn't a bad idea too. Hell of a lot cheaper than a whole new block.

    I tried to go the "cheap" route and squeeze the most out of it as I could and quickly realized it would never live up to what I wanted it to be. I ended up going with forged pistons and rods and eddy heads.

    I'd always prefer an engine built by someone local with a good reputation than some "blueprint" block with probably cheapo bearings and shit in it.

    -Justin

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    Quote Originally Posted by xjsc16x View Post
    What's wrong with the engine you have now / how many miles? Stay SBE, throw a set of EQs / intake / cam on it, get it tuned and call it a day. Having a shop throw bearings and rings in your block isn't a bad idea too. Hell of a lot cheaper than a whole new block.

    I tried to go the "cheap" route and squeeze the most out of it as I could and quickly realized it would never live up to what I wanted it to be. I ended up going with forged pistons and rods and eddy heads.

    I'd always prefer an engine built by someone local with a good reputation than some "blueprint" block with probably cheapo bearings and shit in it.

    -Justin
    Nothing at all. It's only got 85k miles on it. And I think yall are right. Deep down I'd rather build it myself. "Become one with the truck.. oohhhmmmmmm"

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    Quote Originally Posted by viperdak View Post
    Nothing at all. It's only got 85k miles on it. And I think yall are right. Deep down I'd rather build it myself. "Become one with the truck.. oohhhmmmmmm"
    Fuck that then, don't even touch the bottom end. Go full "stage 2" heads/cam/intake on that thing with an FRP toon, enjoy the truck

    -Justin

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    Quote Originally Posted by xjsc16x View Post
    Fuck that then, don't even touch the bottom end. Go full "stage 2" heads/cam/intake on that thing with an FRP toon, enjoy the truck

    -Justin
    Damn skippy. What you said + Torqstorm SC and stage 2 meth inj by snow performance should have me sitting pretty. I'm assuming the bottom end can support all of that.

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    The stock 5.9 will handle a lot IF tuned correctly. Throw some top end goodies on it and have fun!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

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