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Thread: Headers

  1. #1

    Default Headers

    I recently bought a Dakota R/T and it started ticking about a month after buying it. I thought for sure it was a lifter. After some searching I realized that there is a bolt and two nuts missing on the shorty headers. I looked the brand name of the headers and they're a cheap ebay header...speed daddy.

    I want to get rid of the ticking obviously and am looking at getting some new headers. I want to get headers that are for a daily, mild build. My question is, what headers are available today that would fit my needs? More importantly, is there any fitment issues that would cause a ticking sound or an exhaust leak? Oh...my budget is about 600 dollars. I wouldn't spend much more.

  2. #2

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    Spintechs are basically the only NEW headers for Dakotas that are worth your time:

    https://spintechmufflers.com/headers...akota-headers/

    You could also keep an eye out for used Spintechs, or Mopar/PPH's.

    Steve - 1999 Flame Red RC R/T-56
    Comp Cams | F&B | Mopar | Spintech | SCT | Hotchkis


  3. #3
    Mark's Avatar
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    No comment.....
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

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    Spintech mids
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  5. #5

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    I will look into spintech a bit more. I've been shying away from tgem because of the price. I found Gibson makes headers too. Anybody used these? Anyone know about how they bolt up? Any leaks?

    https://gibsonperformance.com/i-2273...ss-gp301s.html

  6. #6

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    These are what I run. No issues, look great still.


    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...a/submodel/r-t
    2003 Dakota R/T CC Flame Red.
    Hedman Headers, CAI, 52mm TB, MSD distributor/wires/coil, Hughes Plenum Plate, Hooker Aerochamber axle dump, Trans Depot Stage 1 46re/Transgo shift kit., FRP tune, 180° Stat,

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    650 for shorties...?
    Dayum.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

  8. #8

    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    650 for shorties...?
    Dayum.
    $650 for a M1 2bbl...

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  9. #9

    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DakotaRat View Post
    I will look into spintech a bit more. I've been shying away from tgem because of the price. I found Gibson makes headers too. Anybody used these? Anyone know about how they bolt up? Any leaks?

    https://gibsonperformance.com/i-2273...ss-gp301s.html
    Don't forget, you may need a Y-pipe or if dual, pipe connection(s)-modification(s). $

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  10. #10

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    I guess they're all pretty close in price. Have you guys seen this?

    https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.hot...manifolds/amp/

    I know every build is different, but looks like 1 5/8 made the most power.

  11. #11

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    Then again they hooker doesn't make headers for a dakota anymore either. It's a shame...I got to the game to late.

  12. #12
    nitroram33's Avatar
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    Fuck the Gibsons. Flanges sucked, the merge rusted out on both sides; never again...

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitroram33 View Post
    Fuck the Gibsons. Flanges sucked, the merge rusted out on both sides; never again...
    That's exactly the information I am looking for. Gibson headers...gone.

  14. #14

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    I bought the spin tech mids and their y pipe. 1100+ and 7+ weeks later I tried to install them. Passenger side slides right in with no problem. The drivers side goes in, but with no clearance. It's rubbing against the steering shaft. I really don't want to take a hammer to new ceramic coated pipes.

    Is this common? Is there other ways around this trouble spot?

  15. #15

  16. #16

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    I cant help ya with the spintechs fitment , i have the pph. But i would send that y pipe back and go get dual exhaust at an exhaust shop.

  17. #17
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    motor mounts in good shape?

  18. #18

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    Yeah, but the truck is lowered 2 in the front 3 in the rear.

  19. #19



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    Thinner port plates....3/8" would help. The steering shaft and rack don't move when you lower a vehicle..Tie rods and A arms do, but the shaft is fixed, it will only move if you move or change the steering rack.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

  20. #20
    Mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DakotaRat View Post
    I bought the spin tech mids and their y pipe. 1100+ and 7+ weeks later I tried to install them. Passenger side slides right in with no problem. The drivers side goes in, but with no clearance. It's rubbing against the steering shaft. I really don't want to take a hammer to new ceramic coated pipes.

    Is this common? Is there other ways around this trouble spot?
    I feel your pain, same exact problem I had. I used inductive heat to clearance mine around the shaft and it didn't damage the coating to bad.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  21. #21
    Mark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DakotaRat View Post
    I bought the spin tech mids and their y pipe. 1100+ and 7+ weeks later I tried to install them. Passenger side slides right in with no problem. The drivers side goes in, but with no clearance. It's rubbing against the steering shaft. I really don't want to take a hammer to new ceramic coated pipes.

    Is this common? Is there other ways around this trouble spot?
    I feel your pain, same exact problem I had. I used inductive heat to clearance mine around the shaft and it didn't damage the coating to bad.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    I feel your pain, same exact problem I had. I used inductive heat to clearance mine around the shaft and it didn't damage the coating to bad.
    Explain thineself. How can I harness this wizardry? Headers and exhaust are my next mod and I'd like to be prepared.
    99 R/T CC Flame Red - Current
    K&N FIPK, Redneck Flowmaster dump

    01 R/T CC Bright Silver Metallic - Sold
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  23. #23
    Mark's Avatar
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    Most body shops use inductive heat when doing body work and I had access to the tool, much easier on the ceramic coating than flame.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    Most body shops use inductive heat when doing body work and I had access to the tool, much easier on the ceramic coating than flame.
    Thanks for the tip. Will keep that in mind if I run into the same issue.
    99 R/T CC Flame Red - Current
    K&N FIPK, Redneck Flowmaster dump

    01 R/T CC Bright Silver Metallic - Sold
    98 R/T RC Flame Red - Sold
    04 SRT-4 - Flame Red - Stage 1 - Sold

    DRTC Member #259

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    I was gonna start a tread about this..... I’m gonna look into buying a set of headers I the next couple weeks. What’s better mids or long tube headers . And are the spintech headers one of the best options? What’s better? As of right now I have the mopar mid length headers. I was told that there crappy headers! Is it true? My headers are also 20 years old lol. Not worried about smog if that’s a issue with the long tube headers.

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