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Thread: Best oil catch can to use?

  1. #26
    kota360's Avatar
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    Sounds to me, the rings are out of that engine plus the valve seals are junk. You have more than a PCV issue.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

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    Is there anyway to now for sure lol.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goober rt View Post
    Is there anyway to now for sure lol.
    Yep, pull engine apart...
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goober rt View Post
    I’ll check it out as soon as I get home. Also I was driving home today and on high idle deceleration there’s a large amount of smoke coming out of tail pipes.

    I’m now someone mechined this in one of the post.
    Well that's the clincher. In a previous post you said you never noticed smoke out the tail pipes.... Throttle closed deceleration is when the engine is under the highest vacuum. You could do a dry then wet compression test to make you feel better before going into the engine but your valve stem seals and rings are shot dude.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goober rt View Post
    I’ll check it out as soon as I get home. Also I was driving home today and on high idle deceleration there’s a large amount of smoke coming out of tail pipes.

    I’m now someone mechined this in one of the post.
    Sounds like valve seals.

    Do you still have cats installed in the exhaust?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Well that's the clincher. In a previous post you said you never noticed smoke out the tail pipes.... Throttle closed deceleration is when the engine is under the highest vacuum. You could do a dry then wet compression test to make you feel better before going into the engine but your valve stem seals and rings are shot dude.
    I opened the rear cab window and then noticed it. It was pretty bad. Is there a chance that it’s the valve seals and not the rings. The truck only has 86k miles.

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    Does anyone know why the rings or valve seal went bad at 86k miles. Is this a common thing with the magnum?

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    The truck started burning oil at 65k miles but I’m thinking the plenum gasket was the issue at that time and this oil eating is new.

    My next best thing is to figure out if it’s worth fixing or not because The truck runs’ drives perfect and I’ve invested a lot in the custom paint and performance

  9. #34

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    Start with a compression test. If it shows bad compression, which I'm guessing it will, do a leak down test to help pin point the problem.
    Last edited by mikset; 07-08-2018 at 03:57 PM.
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  10. #35
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    With all of the issues you have talked about in this thread, just pull the engine have the short block rebuilt, buy a new set of heads and reassemble. If the heads you have now are original, they are more than likely cracked and non-repairable. If you are not willing to do this, anything else is a waste of time and money.
    Last edited by kota360; 07-08-2018 at 11:36 PM.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  11. #36
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    A compression test or leak-down test will not tell you if the oil rings or the valve seals are bad.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

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    Quote Originally Posted by mikset View Post
    Start with a compression test. If it shows bad compression, which I'm guessing it will, do a leak down test to help pin point the problem.
    I already did a leak down test came back fine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kota360 View Post
    With all of the issues you have talked about in this thread, just pull the engine have the short block rebuilt, buy a new set of heads and reassemble. If the heads you have now are original, they are more than likely cracked and non-repairable. If you are not willing to do this, anything else is a waste of time and money.
    Yea. My next tread is gonna be about rebuild options.

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    Is it something I did to make the oil rings go bad? I did bust a lot of donuts lol I hold A record for longest donuts in east bay lol.

    Is this a common issue with the 5.9?

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    Stupidity is the leading cause of engine failure.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    Is it something I did to make the oil rings go bad? I did bust a lot of donuts lol I hold A record for longest donuts in east bay lol.
    Prolonged donuts may be starving the engine of oil and accelerate the wear of internal components.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goober rt View Post
    Is it something I did to make the oil rings go bad? I did bust a lot of donuts lol I hold A record for longest donuts in east bay lol.

    Is this a common issue with the 5.9?
    Nah, I've destroyed a set of basically brand new tires in 1 continuous donuts session, no issues with my motor, not to meantion all the other donuts I used to do all the time. hell with the 4.56's it's seen over 4000 rpm for 20 minutes straight bombing down the highway. As long as you didn't run it low of oil, and be smart about it you wont hurt it.


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  18. #43
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    Valve seals are the cheapest and easiest to do.

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    How do valve seals go bad? And is there any sings besides oil burning.

    Keep in mind I did replace valve seals about 3/4 years ago 10k miles ago.

  20. #45
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    You could have put shitty seals in, by that I mean cheap. Heat is the biggest killer of things like valve seals. These trucks run a 195 thermostat and run above 200 generally. That means things bake.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Goober rt View Post
    How do valve seals go bad? And is there any sings besides oil burning.

    Keep in mind I did replace valve seals about 3/4 years ago 10k miles ago.
    You put the seals in?

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    You put the seals in?
    Sorry for the late reply...

    I had a shop do it.

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