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Thread: Tubular Upper Control Arms Dakota '97-03

  1. #76

    98Dak408's Avatar
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    One set of bushings I have will work with some modification although I was hoping for something a little different. This must be the bushing others are using. Nonetheless, I have an idea that may make it a better install and function so I’ll do some mock-up to see how it turns out.

    I have seen some other control arms that use a smaller bushing or the OEM replacement poly bushings for the ’00-04 passenger’s side control arm but those guys must be welding up the control arm with the pivot shaft already in place within the bushing sleeves. Otherwise they’d never get it in and once done that way they might have to dig the bushings out in order to replace them if they wear out.

    I want mine to be relatively easy to install or remove the pivot shaft for easier bushing replacement if necessary. The bushing sleeve set-up shown in post #65 will work but I’m trying to make it less complicated.

  2. #77

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    I could do something like this. Would have to zero in on the correct spacing. This would enable the bushings to be pressed out again fairly easily and would provide a little more rigidity than without the washer as well. Going to the steel yard on Monday to try a different size tubing to weigh the difference (no pun intended).

    Last edited by 98Dak408; 08-12-2018 at 01:06 AM.

  3. #78

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    Looks killer man!

  4. #79

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    Looks killer man!
    Thanks! Yeah, it kind of gives me a warm fuzzy feeling. lol Now I just have to hone in on that for refinement.

  5. #80



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    Now....?
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

  6. #81

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    Now....?
    Hold on to your tighty-whities grandpa, I'm working on it.

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    I could do something like this. Would have to zero in on the correct spacing. This would enable the bushings to be pressed out again fairly easily and would provide a little more rigidity than without the washer as well. Going to the steel yard on Monday to try a different size tubing to weigh the difference (no pun intended).

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  8. #83

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    Mocked up a larger tube that provides better bushing flange contact. However, it is heavier and requires machining.


  9. #84

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    Picked up some larger thick flat washers for the end of the bushings but the OEM washers will work fine.

    Also picked up an M16 x 2.00 rethread die to clean up the pivot shaft threads. A thread file could also be used if the thread ends aren't too buggered up.

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    How long b4 these are available, and about how much will they cost ballpark

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  11. #86

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    How long b4 these are available, and about how much will they cost ballpark
    I'm not sure yet. I'm trying everything I can think of to hone in on what is the best set up that I can reliably produce. Then I'll know better about what to charge.

    One thing for certain is I've done more with it in the last two months than I have in the last 4 years. lol Sometimes I run into a snag with prototypes and they end up on the back burner for some period of time. However, I want to get these things done and an important part is figuring out the bushing set up. I've started making the jig and am figuring out the best way to set it up that will allow for future possible adjustment if necessary. I also have a few ideas for the rest of the a-arm but need to finish the jig and iron out the bushings before I can try various things with that.

    If I was just making a set for my truck it would be done by now. However, when considering production and repeatability for the various year differences, problematic areas, and such, does take a little time narrowing things down. I've put resources and a lot of time in on this in the last few months even though it may not look like it. When it is all figured out it should look like a no-brainer but getting there is not so easy.

  12. #87



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    Dibbs...
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  13. #88




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    Can I make a suggestion that has always bothered me about the tubular upper arms for our trucks that have come and gone over the years.
    They are just two tubes meeting a plate for the balljoint, none of them retain a bump stop provision to stop the suspension from traveling too far down. While this may not seem like a big deal I have found it can be on trucks that are still stock height or just slightly lowered when going over rough bumps or having the truck lifted for what ever reason. I just feel it would be nice if they had a bar running across tying the two tubes together that also had an adjustable bum stop on it that contacted the stock bump stop pad on the frame that is welded there for a reason.

    just my two cents, thank you for still producing parts for these trucks.
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  14. #89

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    Can I make a suggestion that has always bothered me about the tubular upper arms for our trucks that have come and gone over the years.
    They are just two tubes meeting a plate for the balljoint, none of them retain a bump stop provision to stop the suspension from traveling too far down. While this may not seem like a big deal I have found it can be on trucks that are still stock height or just slightly lowered when going over rough bumps or having the truck lifted for what ever reason. I just feel it would be nice if they had a bar running across tying the two tubes together that also had an adjustable bum stop on it that contacted the stock bump stop pad on the frame that is welded there for a reason.

    just my two cents, thank you for still producing parts for these trucks.
    Yeah, I’ve noticed that the arms available from time-to-time don’t have bump stops. I have pondered that for some time. The bump stop acts like a variable rate spring as well as limiting travel. I think it is because of the extra cost and complexity to produce and after studying it I don’t initially see an easy way of doing it. The bump stop perch will likely be higher than the arm tubes and wouldn't be a straight bar going across. Nonetheless, once I get further along I do plan to see what I can do with it. I’d rather have a bump stop on mine as well. It does add more weight though but will likely add strength as well. As far as an adjustable bump stop I’m not sure about that yet. That too will likely add complexity, bulk, and weight. Energy Suspension has a bump stop that is stepped where you can trim it down for some amount of adjustability, but it is polyurethane and would be less variable rate than the OEM rubber. Regardless, it would certainly be better than nothing for sure.

    https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/9.9101

    Note: After disassembling the OEM a-arm you can really see how flimsy it is. Tubular will be stronger which should also translate into better handling and road feel with less flex.

  15. #90

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    I also think I will add two tabs that can be used to secure the brake line. However, it will not use the OEM bracket because I think it would look like crap. One tab would likely be on the foreword tube and the other close to the ball joint located similar to OEM. The tabs would have a hole in it where something like a tube clamp can be fastened to hold the line.

    That too adds to the cost but I think I would want that on my truck. I will cross that bridge when I get further along.

  16. #91

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    I started setting the jig up on a flat plate of steel for some leeway of positioning that will allow for adjustment as I figure out the best positioning. I also though it would be good to hold welding magnets should I need to use them, if only temporarily. It would also be easy to drill and tap or slot, etc. So I found an old piece of steel I inherited from my father and went to work on it. I lined up and welded on some pieces, etc. Then I went to stick a magnet on it and found out that it was actually a stainless-steel plate that was grungy and discolored from years of sitting around a shop. As many of you may know, good stainless is not magnetic and is more difficult to work with in regard to drilling, tapping…or slotting. Crap! I may have to cut the jig apart so I can get a steel plate and start over with it.

  17. #92
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  18. #93
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    Richard you have the patience of a 100 men. I can't wait to see the finished product as all of your pieces are works of art. I hope I'm still near the top of the list for a set.
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    Richard you have the patience of a 100 men. I can't wait to see the finished product as all of your pieces are works of art. I hope I'm still near the top of the list for a set.
    Thanks Ken! We'll get there.

    (I never thought of myself as a patient man. Stubborn? Yes! lol)

  20. #95
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    I prefer persistent!

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    I cant wait

    Mostly stock:
    Open air Cleaner
    52mm TB
    No cat, flowmaster
    Way more mods to come

  22. #97

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    I cant wait
    Sorry.

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  24. #99
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    There was mention prior of adapting a bump stop to the control arms. If I buy a set when these come to be and if a stop isn't part of the arm, I would use a strap type stop like; https://www.alligatorperformance.com...CABEgKXBPD_BwE

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  25. #100

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    There was mention prior of adapting a bump stop to the control arms. If I buy a set when these come to be and if a stop isn't part of the arm, I would use a strap type stop like; https://www.alligatorperformance.com...CABEgKXBPD_BwE
    I will take your response into consideration but I am really going to try and make them with a bump stop. It seems kind of half-assed without one.

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