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Thread: c-clip removal

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    Default c-clip removal

    I'm trying to get started with my build and crap. If i use stock rear , i have to change the housing ends plus brakes ? I'm trying to add this all up and I'm starting to get close to a new complete rearend . This brings me to the next question dana or 9 or 8.75 . I would like to keep the 9.25 but as the price goes up and i can't keep the c-clips and race . Any suggestions I'm ok with not running a spool but c-clips gotta go

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    niebs's Avatar
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    whats your goal. fords 8.8 is a good option and priced well. Lighter then the 9 and you can find them with disk brakes.
    They do still have c-clips as well but you just put 9" ends on it. cheap and easy.
    Last edited by niebs; 02-20-2018 at 10:45 PM.

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    I want it to be strong enough to handle upgrades . The nine is looking like the best choice , i just hate running non-mopar and i hate not being able to mod what i have without it costing as much as a new unit

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    What kind of E.Ts are you running? NHRA rules state slower than 10.99 c-clips are OK. I doubt you'd even be checked until you ran considerably faster than that.
    408, HiPoTek, FRP Tuning, Martin Saine 46re
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    I eliminated my c- clips last year by having Mopar 8.75 ends welded on and custom 4130 axles, Dr. Diff knows the dance...also had the axle tubes welded into the housing.
    Add a Detroit locker and your good to go, and, you can get stiffer springs for a locker so it doesn't unlock...makes it like a spool.
    9.25 is a stout rear end, no reason to change.
    I'm hoping to go faster than 10.99 this year, if I do, tech will start looking pretty close.
    Edit...I can shoot over a parts list, pm your email address.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    A Detroit locker really locks the c clips in, they won't fail, but if you break an axle, its "fine time to leave me loose wheel".
    I didn't want to be that guy, hence the 8.75 ends.
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    Axles
    Attached Images Attached Images
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    I was going to suggest just weld 9" or 8.75" ends on the 9.25 axle housing but Dave beat me too it.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

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    From Cass, Dr. Diff when I did this...

    Pair, Mopar billet steel housing ends, T-bolts, nuts and inner axle seals $100
    9.25" crush sleeve eliminator $25
    Custom 9.25" axle pkg with studs and bearings installed $385
    Add access holes $20
    Upgrade to 4140 cr-mo material $75

    Cut the housing 2.5" inward, measured from the outside edge of the brake backing plate mounting surface. In other words, you want your brakes to mount in the same exact place, then measure for axles.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    ^ cant beat that.

    Do yourself a favor and buy the wheels and tires you plan to use now. And adjust the rear width to that.

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    Yep...good advice, I forget that part.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    9.25 is stout. Do what Dave did
    --Tom
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    I'm a douchebag

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    wheels and tires , that's another issue . They both run together . I really like Calverts suspension and i would like to do autocross and drag race only . I want strong lite wheels with 10 or 10.5 tires . Next issue bolt pattern stock , 4.5 on 5 or 5x5 .

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    Did you use stock offset ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffru6475 View Post
    wheels and tires , that's another issue . They both run together . I really like Calverts suspension and i would like to do autocross and drag race only . I want strong lite wheels with 10 or 10.5 tires . Next issue bolt pattern stock , 4.5 on 5 or 5x5 .
    Good luck. Sacrifices will be made everywhere. Two completely different wants.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Good luck. Sacrifices will be made everywhere. Two completely different wants.
    ^^ what he said. One or the other, or suck at both.
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    Wheels and tires ? Bolt pattern ?

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