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Thread: Caltracs on the street, lay it on me.

  1. #26
    blackknight's Avatar
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    Everyone has their preferred setting I usually let them barely touch when I’m daily driving, keep in mind when you’re in the seat alone ,that leaves the driver side almost preloaded, so I go about and 1/8 in on that side, but if they are track adjusted on the street, it will beat you up, you feel every bump on your back

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    Mine are upper hole, 1.5 turns of preload, not flats, but complete turns of preload.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    But yours is only track boss man !

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    Putting Richard's trans cross member and X brace kit in my truck was probably the best money I have ever spent on my truck.
    It tightened the truck up and made it handle a lot better.
    There is virtually no chassis flex in the truck now.
    Before I could drive down the road, look in the door mirror, and the box looked like it was doing the twist.
    Now you look back in the mirror and nothing is moving.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  5. #30

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    The Caltracs definitely work and are pretty solid. However, I’ve been running the Competition Engineering Slide-O-Links and they are not as harsh on the street due to the poly busing between the front and rear attachment points. They do use a solid bushing for the front eye of the leaf springs. However, due to a lack of sales they have been discontinued for the Dakota.

    This year I have been swamped with business during the first and into second quarter of the year and have been working 14 hour days including weekends trying to catch up. When things lighten up a bit I plan to work on the upper control arms. My next project after that is a set of polyurethane traction bars using a poly bushing for the front and rear attachment points. I will also replace the leaf spring eye bushings with poly as well. This will provide great flexibility for handling as well as prevent wheel hop. I worked on the design about 3 years ago and will revisit it when I have more time.

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    My next project after that is a set of polyurethane traction bars using a poly bushing for the front and rear attachment points. I will also replace the leaf spring eye bushings with poly as well. This will provide great flexibility for handling as well as prevent wheel hop. I worked on the design about 3 years ago and will revisit it when I have more time.
    Good. My Caltracs are so annoyingly squeaky I'm seriously thinking getting rid of them.

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    I wanted to try slide o links when they first came out, my caltracs don’t squeak at all, have you tried anti seize ?

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    I wanted to try slide o links when they first came out, my caltracs don’t squeak at all, have you tried anti seize ?
    No. I sprayed the bejesus out of them with a silicone based spray. Apparently I didn't hit the sweet spot wherever that may be.

  9. #34
    blackknight's Avatar
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    Probably the aluminum bushing in the spring

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Probably the aluminum bushing in the spring
    Thanks BK I'll give it a shot. If that doesn't work, off they come and I'll put on a pair of slapper bars or wait for Rich's concoction.

  11. #36

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    On the street,I run with the bushing out of my slide-O-links to allow suspension travel.

    Finding a good shock to work with the Hotchkis is another story as the QA1’s suck for street duty IMO...

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  13. #38



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    Quote Originally Posted by 98dak408 View Post
    the caltracs definitely work and are pretty solid. However, i’ve been running the competition engineering slide-o-links and they are not as harsh on the street due to the poly busing between the front and rear attachment points. They do use a solid bushing for the front eye of the leaf springs. However, due to a lack of sales they have been discontinued for the dakota.

    This year i have been swamped with business during the first and into second quarter of the year and have been working 14 hour days including weekends trying to catch up. when things lighten up a bit i plan to work on the upper control arms. my next project after that is a set of polyurethane traction bars using a poly bushing for the front and rear attachment points. I will also replace the leaf spring eye bushings with poly as well. This will provide great flexibility for handling as well as prevent wheel hop. I worked on the design about 3 years ago and will revisit it when i have more time.
    yes !!!
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  14. #39


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    want more inchs STROKE IT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Mine are upper hole, 1.5 turns of preload, not flats, but complete turns of preload.
    Planning on putting my bars on soon. I have never installed them before and bought mine secondhand so don't have whatever papers they may have come with from Calvert.

    When you say preload, you mean tighten the bar until the slider kisses the spring and then continue tightening the bar, correct? Is that too much preload for a daily driver?

    And which hole is the least aggressive? Thanks.

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