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Thread: Crank Sensor Removal Dakota 3.7

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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Default Crank Sensor Removal Dakota 3.7

    Today while sitting at a light the engine died and wouldn't restart. A passer-by helped me push it out of the road. After a while it would start and die. Then start and the rpm would surge a bit so I managed to get it back home. Trouble codes P0335, P0339, and then P0300. So I went to change the crank sensor and it won't budge. The plastic casing is crumbling apart as I try to remove it. Not sure what to do now. I may try to rig up some air pressure into the valve cover so hopefully the debris will blow out as I drill out the inside.

    Anyone have any suggestions?


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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Finally got it out without getting crap in the engine. What a PITA! Sometimes the force holding it in placed is greater than the force needed to pull the plastic piece of crap apart.

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    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    First I've seen that happen.
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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Me too.

    Took 7 hours to get it out and 2 mins to install the replacement. I greased up the o-ring and plastic portion for easier removal in the future.

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    Hugh Jassole's Avatar
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    how did you wind up getting it out ?
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    I'll spare you what didn't work. What finally worked was using a small drill motor with a 3/16 drill bit. I drilled holes around the inner circumference of the sensor as best I could being careful not to score the sides of the cylinder block port or going too deep as to punch through into the crankcase. I could only drill at an angle since I could not square the drill 90-degrees to the block due to a lack of room. I then used a long thin hardened drift punch to push into the hole in the plastic, in which to pry and wiggle until what was left of the sensor in the hole started to work loose. I was finally left with the stainless steel cup, magnet, and plastic portion of the nose. I drilled out the magnet as best I could but the plastic nose piece prevented me from pulling out the stainless nose cup. It would catch as I pulled it out, and what was left of the magnet pulled the nose back against the tone ring. I was finally able to get the nose piece flush with the block, and then pried the stainless steel nose cup edges inward to help release the force againstf the plastic nose ring. I used the punch and a very small set of vise grips to help with this. While holding the cup edge with the vise grips, I was able to pry out the metal cup with the punch. Then I used the punch to pry the plastic nose ring out. It helps to be sure the tip of your punch has a sharp edge in which to grab hold. I also used PB Blaster to help loosen things up. If I wasn't so cold and frustrated working on this outside , I would have taken more pics along the way.

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