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Thread: Lowering blocks and axle wrap

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    Default Lowering blocks and axle wrap

    I've got 1" hotchkiss drop springs for the front, but I'd like to drop the rear either 1" or 1 1/2" and I was thinking about moving the stock hangers up higher, and using a 1/2" lowering block. Is anyone running a lowering block over 500 whp with good success? I'd presume it gives more leverage for axle wrap, but is that necessarily a bad thing when I have caltrac's?


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    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    I'ld rather look into a -1" monoleaf. Or adjust both hangers to get the ride height and help with antisquat.

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    1" monoleafs, caltracs and spring sliders.
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    Purpose? Race truck or street cruiser?

    Yea you can run a small block to increase drop. You can add a clamp to minimize wrap and wheel hop; but if you're shooting for low 60' times, I would go another route.

    I have hotchkis leafs, a 1" block, and a spring clamp. It works fine but I'm also not a dedicated racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert View Post
    Purpose? Race truck or street cruiser?

    Yea you can run a small block to increase drop. You can add a clamp to minimize wrap and wheel hop; but if you're shooting for low 60' times, I would go another route.

    I have hotchkis leafs, a 1" block, and a spring clamp. It works fine but I'm also not a dedicated racer
    It's just going to be a street brawler. Drifting, burnouts, drag racing, and just being a general goon. I only have stock leafs. I know hotchkis leafs are impossible to find, and a split monoleaf is probably not he greatest idea for what I'll be doing with it.


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    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    I'ld rather look into a -1" monoleaf. Or adjust both hangers to get the ride height and help with antisquat.
    I would move each hanger up equally


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    1" monoleafs, caltracs and spring sliders.
    I know your setup works reeeeeally well, but I'm not building a drag truck.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    I have the Caltrac bars with Caltrac monoleafs and angled lowering block to get both the pinion angle I wanted and lower the truck.
    It seems to work OK.
    Duner
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    I have the Caltrac bars with Caltrac monoleafs and angled lowering block to get both the pinion angle I wanted and lower the truck.
    It seems to work OK.
    How do you like the monoleafs on the street? Does handling suck? Or would I be OK throwing it out sideways?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    How do you like the monoleafs on the street? Does handling suck? Or would I be OK throwing it out sideways?
    I originally didn't have the rear swaybar on - and it sucked badly. (on the street)
    Adding the rear swaybar made a huge difference.
    Throwing it out sideways is the easy part.

    It still leans more than it did with stock springs going around corners - but with the Detroit Locker in it - I don't get to play Ricky Bobby much on corners or it starts to "Sprint Car" around the corner when the rearend locks up like a spool. The difficult part is going around a corner fairly quickly without "Drifting" it. Of course - that's a matter of the locker and not the springs. It just means I can't "test" the handling like I once could. The "Trick" springs and 90/10s in the front are zero help also.
    Duner
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    I originally didn't have the rear swaybar on - and it sucked badly. (on the street)
    Adding the rear swaybar made a huge difference.
    Throwing it out sideways is the easy part.

    It still leans more than it did with stock springs going around corners - but with the Detroit Locker in it - I don't get to play Ricky Bobby much on corners or it starts to "Sprint Car" around the corner when the rearend locks up like a spool. The difficult part is going around a corner fairly quickly without "Drifting" it. Of course - that's a matter of the locker and not the springs. It just means I can't "test" the handling like I once could. The "Trick" springs and 90/10s in the front are zero help also.
    Ok, that's fine with me, I welded the diff because drift life... I was more concerned about body roll, and bouncing, as long as it's predictable.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  12. #12

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    I'm running -1" mono leafs with 1" blocks w/Caltracs and TruTrac and R/T front and rear sways. With good street tires it is quite predictable if not still a bit tail happy. I also have dual adjustable QA-1's in front and dual adjustable Strange Eng rear shocks that I believe makes a big difference in making it much more driveable from street to strip! Run much different settings for each whether on street or track. Will say with E/T Streets (bias) very sketchy getting them sideways even aired up to 25lbs ;-)

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