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  1. #1

    Default nv3500

    Looking at purchasing a nv3500 with extras to put in my r/t. However the one trans tab is cracked and the other has already broken off and he doesn't have that piece. Can this be fixed without putting a lot more money in it? I have read where some have just became creative with steel plates. Should I just pass on the deal? The nice part about this deal is it has a lot of parts I need for the swap.

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Unless it’s free,pass....

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    Osee's Avatar
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    I agree, look for one that's complete, you could end up down a money pit chasing parts and fixes. unless it's free.


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  4. #4

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    That is what is making this so tempting, the hard parts are all there. All I need to complete is flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throw bearing, pilot bearing and the reverse light switch connector. Parts that are easily sourced and would want new.

    My problem is the cracked trans mount on the tranny, I do not know much about welding aluminum or using steel plates to secure the remaining portion of the tabs and was hoping someone in here would give me some guidance. My truck is never going to make tons of power and this tranny should hold up. I don't want to sink $1,500+/- on a tremec right now.

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    Not only is it aluminum, it's cast aluminum. Not something easily welded by your average guy.

    Rebuilding an NV3500 isn't a cheap or easy job. So you had best be buying a known good trans, or the price needs to be low enough to justify sinking another $1000 if needed.

    If the deal is too good to be true, it probably is
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    I bought a complete donor truck with an nv3500 that had the rear tabs broken, I had my buddy who is a kick ass welder take some aluminum plate and weld on a nice new mount. If your on a budget you will have to settle for an nv3500 and do this because they are ALL broken. If your making a lot of power or plan to, then pass. But I never had issues with my welded nv3500, only internals due to high torque.
    01' RC Dakota 5.9L R/T - TKO 600 - 1st ever 01+ Manual Tranny Conversion w/ NO CEL - SOLD
    98' Durango 5.2L 4x4 - T/S Lift with 33x12.5x15 Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac's - SOLD
    If it aint broke, fix it till it is!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by HARSH-R/T View Post
    I bought a complete donor truck with an nv3500 that had the rear tabs broken, I had my buddy who is a kick ass welder take some aluminum plate and weld on a nice new mount. If your on a budget you will have to settle for an nv3500 and do this because they are ALL broken. If your making a lot of power or plan to, then pass. But I never had issues with my welded nv3500, only internals due to high torque.
    Thanks for the info but I ended up passing on it because the welder I talked to said welding aluminum of this type only causes it to become even more brittle. I never planned on putting tons of power in this and really wanted to snag this since I have been wanting to do a manual swap. I did read I believe in your post your nv had to be repaired but other than that no one else mentioned about a fix. The thing about this deal I would have been shifting gears for about $1,200 and would have had a new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbank View Post
    Thanks for the info but I ended up passing on it because the welder I talked to said welding aluminum of this type only causes it to become even more brittle. I never planned on putting tons of power in this and really wanted to snag this since I have been wanting to do a manual swap. I did read I believe in your post your nv had to be repaired but other than that no one else mentioned about a fix. The thing about this deal I would have been shifting gears for about $1,200 and would have had a new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate.

    Sadly cheap up front often turns into being disappointed in the long run.
    Put the 1200 aside today and add to it for a real manual conversion,you will be much happier in the long run.

  9. #9

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    updating here because I found a local guy on craigslist that was parting out an 03 dak 2wd with 100k miles. Ended up getting clutch pedal assembly, slave cylinder with hydraulic lines, driveshaft, trans cross member with mount all the hardware and the tranny for what I thought was a sweet deal. And he pulled everything. So my collection of parts has started and still searching for a better trans but really tempted to just use the nv that he said had no issues and run that until it blows up (I am basically stock except for M1, 52mm tb and k&n cai). I am not going to do anything this year as I will be very busy, just plan to drive it with the auto for now.

    My other concern is I have read where putting in an bigger diameter y-pipe (spintech) there is clearance issues with the manual bell housing. Can anyone confirm? If there is what did you do to fix it?

    Thanks

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    Honestly, I would sell the NV3500 and keep the rest. When I used to drag race my Black 2002 it was a real bitch getting the 2-3 shift down. Compared to the T-56 it is mushy and nowhere near as strong. If you are going to to all of that effort, do it the right way with something beefy. The R/T most likely was not available because of all the service calls they would have been getting if the NV3500 was an option.
    Grady Cowardin - Houston, Tx
    '02 Graphite Metallic 4.7L T56


  11. #11

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    I get what you are saying, but having to drop another $1,500-$2,000 for a t-56 is not an option right now. Basically, I have a 160k mile stock engine with an m1, 52mm tb and k&n filter so it is not like I am pushing a lot of power out of this truck. I am not planning on beating on it at a track, just looking to pull off from a stop light and shift gears. My additional costs I am already looking at needing to complete this swap is a flywheel, clutch/pressure plate and get a tune which will be upwards of $1k plus I would like to add headers and a y-pipe but have heard about some fitment issues with manual trannys and bigger diameter y-pipes. I believe the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate will adapt to a t-56 down the road so it is not like I am looking at wasting money only my labor. What do you think I could expect to sell the nv for?

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    Quote Originally Posted by QwikKota View Post
    Honestly, I would sell the NV3500 and keep the rest. When I used to drag race my Black 2002 it was a real bitch getting the 2-3 shift down. Compared to the T-56 it is mushy and nowhere near as strong. If you are going to to all of that effort, do it the right way with something beefy. The R/T most likely was not available because of all the service calls they would have been getting if the NV3500 was an option.
    In my nv3500 in my daily I have to short shift 1-2 because it won't go into gear at high rpm from 1st to 2nd every other gear is fine. I bet it's just the synchronizers we're beat up on 3rd in your trans.


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    Quote Originally Posted by redbank View Post
    I get what you are saying, but having to drop another $1,500-$2,000 for a t-56 is not an option right now. Basically, I have a 160k mile stock engine with an m1, 52mm tb and k&n filter so it is not like I am pushing a lot of power out of this truck. I am not planning on beating on it at a track, just looking to pull off from a stop light and shift gears. My additional costs I am already looking at needing to complete this swap is a flywheel, clutch/pressure plate and get a tune which will be upwards of $1k plus I would like to add headers and a y-pipe but have heard about some fitment issues with manual trannys and bigger diameter y-pipes. I believe the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate will adapt to a t-56 down the road so it is not like I am looking at wasting money only my labor. What do you think I could expect to sell the nv for?
    Swap in the nv3500 and you'll be happy with it. My quad cab 2wd 4.7 has one also, and I love it. It's not a t56 but it's not going to be any worse than an old a833 4spd. For what you're doing you'll have alot of fun with the nv3500.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    Swap in the nv3500 and you'll be happy with it. My quad cab 2wd 4.7 has one also, and I love it. It's not a t56 but it's not going to be any worse than an old a833 4spd. For what you're doing you'll have alot of fun with the nv3500.
    Appreciate the input. I figure this just puts me closer to having 3 pedals, I only have to come up with another grand or maybe $2k if I also buy spintech mid headers and y-pipe. If I blow it up or it ends up giving me problems I am not out any real money since I needed all the other parts and the nv tranny just came with it and since the nv isn't really worth anything why not?

    My concern now was If I buy a set of spintech mids with y-pipe am I going to have fitment issues with the bellhousing? Maybe I should have asked this in the general discussion then here. I have searched but haven't came up with anything concrete.

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbank View Post
    I get what you are saying, but having to drop another $1,500-$2,000 for a t-56 is not an option right now. Basically, I have a 160k mile stock engine with an m1, 52mm tb and k&n filter so it is not like I am pushing a lot of power out of this truck. I am not planning on beating on it at a track, just looking to pull off from a stop light and shift gears. My additional costs I am already looking at needing to complete this swap is a flywheel, clutch/pressure plate and get a tune which will be upwards of $1k plus I would like to add headers and a y-pipe but have heard about some fitment issues with manual trannys and bigger diameter y-pipes. I believe the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate will adapt to a t-56 down the road so it is not like I am looking at wasting money only my labor. What do you think I could expect to sell the nv for?
    I'm not 100% sure but there are none on eBay, perhaps they are rare? I would think at least $500. It's definitely not cheap upgrading or even replacing so used parts make a huge difference in price but some things need to be rebuilt. Flywheel and clutches I would always buy new if possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    In my nv3500 in my daily I have to short shift 1-2 because it won't go into gear at high rpm from 1st to 2nd every other gear is fine. I bet it's just the synchronizers we're beat up on 3rd in your trans.
    It was always kind of a bear to get into 3rd compared to 2nd/4th, even when new. Those were silky in comparison. The T-56 just feels much stouter and puts more power to the ground IMO. The clutch pedal was much lighter with the NV3500, that I will definitely admit. I'm hoping my new setup is a lot lighter. Replacing everything including the hydraulics.
    Grady Cowardin - Houston, Tx
    '02 Graphite Metallic 4.7L T56


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    I had a nv3500 originally. Never had a problem with exhaust figment. That was with edelbrock mids and Mopar Pph.

    Bell is cast into the transmission case. It’s all one piece. Even if it was removable, it’s cast aluminum. I like my feet attached to my ankles. So I do NOT like cast aluminum bell housings on anything remotely performance oriented. I had a v6 5-spd Dakota blow up a clutch. It wasn’t pretty... it’s what triggered the start of my big block TKO build back in 2006.

    The nv3500 flywheel won’t fit inside the QuickTime bell. So no, none of what you bought for the NV3500 will work with the T56
    --Tom
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  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by QwikKota View Post
    I'm not 100% sure but there are none on eBay, perhaps they are rare? I would think at least $500. It's definitely not cheap upgrading or even replacing so used parts make a huge difference in price but some things need to be rebuilt. Flywheel and clutches I would always buy new if possible.

    If I could get $500 for just the NV3500 I will be ahead of the game and if I include everything else that won't work on a T-56 swap that will offset all the other parts I will need to accumulate.

    It was always kind of a bear to get into 3rd compared to 2nd/4th, even when new. Those were silky in comparison. The T-56 just feels much stouter and puts more power to the ground IMO. The clutch pedal was much lighter with the NV3500, that I will definitely admit. I'm hoping my new setup is a lot lighter. Replacing everything including the hydraulics.
    Quote Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert View Post
    I had a nv3500 originally. Never had a problem with exhaust figment. That was with edelbrock mids and Mopar Pph.

    Bell is cast into the transmission case. It’s all one piece. Even if it was removable, it’s cast aluminum. I like my feet attached to my ankles. So I do NOT like cast aluminum bell housings on anything remotely performance oriented. I had a v6 5-spd Dakota blow up a clutch. It wasn’t pretty... it’s what triggered the start of my big block TKO build back in 2006.

    The nv3500 flywheel won’t fit inside the QuickTime bell. So no, none of what you bought for the NV3500 will work with the T56
    So the only part I have that will work on the T-56 swap would be the clutch pedal/bracket?

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    Yup. And the master cylinder.

    T56 needs:
    QuickTime bell
    Custom 130 tooth flywheel
    10.5 or 10.95” 26-spline clutch
    Viper hyd TO bearing
    Fittings and -3an hose to connect viper TO to dakota master
    Shifter handle
    Viper trans mount to cut and weld together with the dakota trans mount
    --Tom
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    Also, all the cross members were the same regardless of auto/stick
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbank View Post
    So the only part I have that will work on the T-56 swap would be the clutch pedal/bracket?
    My setup uses the entire hydraulic system from the Viper: Reservoir, master cylinder, flex hose, slave cylinder with TO bearing. It has a spacer behind the slave to get the engagement on the pressure plate fingers correct. I am currently revisiting that on mine as I have to buy a new clutch that has a different depth from pressure plate to flywheel. The Viper master cylinder twist locks into the factory Dakota 5 speed mounting bracket for the master.
    Grady Cowardin - Houston, Tx
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    Quote Originally Posted by QwikKota View Post
    My setup uses the entire hydraulic system from the Viper: Reservoir, master cylinder, flex hose, slave cylinder with TO bearing. It has a spacer behind the slave to get the engagement on the pressure plate fingers correct. I am currently revisiting that on mine as I have to buy a new clutch that has a different depth from pressure plate to flywheel. The Viper master cylinder twist locks into the factory Dakota 5 speed mounting bracket for the master.
    Keep in mind yours uses the old nv4500 cast aluminum bell that’s cut and welded up to fit a T56. More than one person has had to get them completely reworked due to cracking. Also, good luck finding one since nobody makes those anymore. Everyone else going to T56 for the first time will use the QuickTime bell, which will not accept a slave cylinder and requires the use of a viper hyd TO bearing.
    --Tom
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    Looked this up. NV3500 Ratios for those interested:

    Wide Ratio Gearing Option in Dodge 1500 & GM Full-size Light Trucks:
    1 4.02
    2 2.32
    3 1.40
    4 1.00
    5 0.73
    R 3.55

    Close Ratio GM S/T Small Trucks & 2500 Light Duty Dodge Ram Truck Gearing:
    1 3.49
    2 2.16
    3 1.40
    4 1.00
    5 0.73
    R 3.55

    Close Ratio NV3500-HD Dodge Dakota Gearing:
    1 3.49
    2 2.14
    3 1.38
    4 1.00
    5 0.73
    R 3.55
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  23. #23

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    Still a conquest for some many owners I see.

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