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Thread: CPS for manual flywheel

  1. #1
    Osee's Avatar
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    Default CPS for manual flywheel

    I've been going back and forth with Geoff from Gerko, Ryan, and Fidanza clutch trying to come up with a good solution for a flywheel.
    currently fidanza produces a 14lb alumunim flywheel for mopar engines for $300, but it's for carbed applications. We can't machine in notches for the cps to read because aluminum is non-ferrous so the CPS wouldn't read.

    Geoff's solution has been to machine a steel ring with notches that bolts to the aluminum flywheel so the cps will work. The problem is it is extremely costly and that puts it out of the scope for most people.

    Geoff does manufacture a crank trigger, but factoring the cost of the crank trigger, and a flywheel there is no cost savings to be had.

    He is working on a lightened one piece steel design, and I will be trying the first prototype, but he is currently expanding his business so this will take a while before he gets started on it.

    My other thought was to get steel slugs inserted into the flywheel for the cps to read, but then the signal would be reversed. The stock Ecm is looking for gaps in the flexplate, where this would have (bumps) for lack of a better term.

    I believe I should be able to make it work without an issue because I'll be going MegaSquirt and I can configure the cps how I wish.

    Does anyone know exactly where the cps reads on the flexplate? does it register the drop in voltage from the falling edge? (steel to air space), or does it register the rising edge (air space to steel)?

    I'd like to come up with an affordable solution for the time being.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Osee's Avatar
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    Update: Long Time no see everyone, It's been a few years, I've been bracket racing my Scamp but I really miss my R/T going to start making progress on it this winter. I still need to come up with a Crank Trigger solution because of the Aluminum Flywheel. I purchased the MegaSquirt crank trigger but I will need to figure out a Harminonic balancer setup that I can use to mount this too. Any suggestions or ideas out there?

    https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...trigger-wheel/



    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  3. #3
    Osee's Avatar
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    I've been doing some thinking. I could go with a 2 piece balancer setup and mount the Trigger wheel between the balancer and the pulley, I'd have to chuck the trigger wheel up on the lathe to open up the inner diameter to fit the balancer centering ring. The issue being it's going to space out my lower pulley by the thickness of the trigger wheel. Anybody think I'd have issues throwing the belt if I went that route?

    PRW - 2431841 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...841/make/dodge
    March - 10501-08 https://marchperformance.com/chrysle...lley-3415.html


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    I've been doing some thinking. I could go with a 2 piece balancer setup and mount the Trigger wheel between the balancer and the pulley, I'd have to chuck the trigger wheel up on the lathe to open up the inner diameter to fit the balancer centering ring. The issue being it's going to space out my lower pulley by the thickness of the trigger wheel. Anybody think I'd have issues throwing the belt if I went that route?

    PRW - 2431841 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/p...841/make/dodge
    March - 10501-08 https://marchperformance.com/chrysle...lley-3415.html
    I'm wondering if shimming the accessory, P/S and tensioner bracket with washers of the thickness of the trigger wheel would work?

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
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    r/DodgeDakota

  5. #5

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    lots of options since you are not using the factory ecu...have a crank pulley made that is thinner and run the wheel... run it batch fire and use an old LA electronic distributor for the crank signal... buy an LA dual sync distributor... https://www.fuelairspark.com/xdi-dua...all-block.html have magnets installed into the balancer and use a magnetic pick up...
    1941 Dodge 1/2 ton, 493 twin turbo, EFI, 727, 4 wheel disc brakes, custom triangulated 4 link, DANA 60, Gleason Torsen diff,

    2002 Dakota R/T RC, PX8, PPH Headers, K&N FIPK, Hotchkis TVS, 20" R/T chrome rims, BFG G-Force T/A KDW 275/35 ZR20 tires, Kenwood head unit, Kenwood speakers, RF amp, 8" RF Punch Z subs

    1998 Dakota RC daily driver 5.9L, AX-15 5 speed, Hooker long tube headers, FRP tune

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