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Thread: Kegger Removal Help

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by TC-RT View Post
    Wdh681,

    I put a tiny dab of rtv in 3 places on each gasket to hold them in place. I used 4 of the studs I made; 2 in the front holes and 2 halfway back. I tilted the kegger just enough to clear the distributor and sat it straight down using the studs to align it. Worked out good. Torqued everything to spec as shown in the manual.
    Cool, glad you got it worked out. Studs in the middle and in the front is a better idea with disributor installed.

  2. #27

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    TC,
    Apologize for the late reply, working 12hr mids tends to do that to you, LOL! Good that you got the aluminum plate on the new kegger and got it installed with minimal troubles, enjoy!
    Last edited by lilwhitetruck; 05-09-2017 at 08:26 PM. Reason: Grammar
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by lilwhitetruck View Post
    TC,
    Apologize for the late reply, working 12hr mids tends to do that to you, LOL! Good that you got the aluminum plate on the new kegger and got it installed with minimal troubles, enjoy!
    No worries. But now I have another issue. I forgot that when I removed the Alternator and AC Compressor bracket, I snapped a bolt off. The real issue is after I drilled out the broken bolt, I snapped off the tap. The tap broke off below the bolt hole so I cant get vice grips on it. Gonna have to search how to remove a broken tap unless you have any ideas.

    I was using plenty of oil on the tap and backing it out after a couple turns. Broken bolts have been my nemesis,

  4. #29

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    TC,
    Actually I don't to be honest with you. That is the worst. When we do that in my field we call in the machinist's and even then they have a problem getting it out. Someone else my come up with advice, I'll ask my machinist's group at work and get back with you. Those guys are lifesavers!
    Last edited by lilwhitetruck; 05-12-2017 at 06:19 AM. Reason: Spelling & Grammar
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by lilwhitetruck View Post
    TC,
    Actually I don't to be honest with you. That is the worst. When we do that in my field we call in the machinist's and even then they have a problem getting it out. Someone else my come up with advice, I'll ask my machinist's group at work and get back with you. Those guys are lifesavers!
    I appreciate it. I actually ordered a new bracket. I searched and tried every trick I could to no avail. They make a tap extractor, but that may not have worked. I guess I will just have a new bracket.

    Thanks.
    Terry

  6. #31


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    Quote Originally Posted by lilwhitetruck View Post
    TC, Actually I don't to be honest with you. That is the worst. When we do that in my field we call in the machinist's and even then they have a problem getting it out. Someone else my come up with advice
    Worst case scenario right there having a tap break below the surface. Not good. Taps are made of the same material as drills, so a carbide drill is your only option provided you can center the carbide drill on the center of the broken tap. You're gonna need Jesus on this one. Good luck! FYI, I've been a machinist for 45 years. Yes, I'm old

    EDIT: Saw the post (after I posted) about buying a new bracket.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  7. #32

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    Quote Originally Posted by ScojoDak View Post
    Worst case scenario right there having a tap break below the surface. Not good. Taps are made of the same material as drills, so a carbide drill is your only option provided you can center the carbide drill on the center of the broken tap. You're gonna need Jesus on this one. Good luck! FYI, I've been a machinist for 45 years. Yes, I'm old

    EDIT: Saw the post (after I posted) about buying a new bracket.
    Thanks for the info. New Mopar bracket should he here in a week. Thats really all I amvwaiting for now. Noticed the idler pulley is worn. Gonna pick one of those up to.

  8. #33

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    TC, I'm sorry I thought the bolt snapped off in the block, not in the bracket itself, I would have just said to get another bracket. Couldn't you have gotten one from a recycler? It would have probably been much more cheaper. Anyway glad you got it sorted out.
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

  9. #34

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    Best trick I have for broken bolt and or tap is this: If you are an experienced welder great, if not find someone. Find a fender washer of the right size hole in it for the broken off bolt. Mig weld the broken bolt to the washer. Now take a nut and it can be slightly larger, mig weld the nut to the last weld and washer from the center of the nut. While it's still all hot, quench it with some Knock'er Loose oil of some kind. Let it cool down and use a wrench on the nut to turn that bitch out.

    If it's a steel bolt in aluminum then it might not work so well, never tried.

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  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by lilwhitetruck View Post
    TC, I'm sorry I thought the bolt snapped off in the block, not in the bracket itself, I would have just said to get another bracket. Couldn't you have gotten one from a recycler? It would have probably been much more cheaper. Anyway glad you got it sorted out.
    I called the junk yard and they wanted $60. I got a brand new Mopar bracket for $98 shipped. I didn't want to take a chance of a used one having messed up threads.

  11. #36

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    Too bad I didn't have any more junk to send you Terry. But I've finally cleared out my junk pile.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Too bad I didn't have any more junk to send you Terry. But I've finally cleared out my junk pile.
    No problem. I got everything put together. No leaks from the intake
    However I need to replace the radiator drain plug. Either the plug or the oring is bad, not a big deal.
    I had an idle issue and seemed like trans was slipping, so I replaced the TPS and IAC. Runs good now.
    Last issue I have is a mysterious tranny drip. I replace the pan, gasket, new bolts, and the dipstick seal. Still drips. It's got the correct amount of fluid. Checked it after a 10 mile drive, in neutral after going through all the gears so I dont think venting is an issue, if it has a vent. It drips down from the right side onto the exhaust pipe. Its not pouring out, just a drip and it will leave a small puddle when sitting a long time.

    Also replaced upper and lower radiator hoses, cap, rotor, and plug wires. Also used the Mopar coolant (orange stuff). I figure I change old stuff while I had it tore apart. Next will probably be brakes. I have a new set of tires, just have to get them installed.

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