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Thread: Kegger Removal Help

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    TC-RT's Avatar
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    Default Kegger Removal Help

    I am removing my Kegger because the plenum gasket is leaking. Long story short, I broke the bolt heads off of the front 2 bolts on the left and right side. I cannot break the kegger free from the block. Tried a prybar while making sure not to damage anything. I think the 2 broken bolts are holding me up. Any suggestions? I counted a total of 12 bolts I removed which includes the 2 broken ones . Is that the right amount?

    Picture attached of replacement kegger I got for free from Big Rob. The arrows represent the two bolt heads I snapped off.

    I dont have a problem cutting the kegger if thats what it takes to remove it.

    Thanks for any help.
    Terry

    2017-04-28 22.49.13.jpg

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    I would clean out between the broken stud and manifold the best you can. That's what's holding you up. A small pick and compressed air helps. Soak them in penatrating oil and let it soak. The problem is you got both sides pinned down. If you can find a spot on the rear of the intake to pry, that should do it. Once the rear is broke loose you'll be able to work the front loose.
    Or maybe you just need a bigger pry bar and more muscle.....

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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    A couple solid taps with a hammer may help break it loose.
    I broke the same two bolts on mine. No big deal to remove them once the intake is up and out of the way.
    Good luck.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    What ^^^ they're sayin. However, when reinstalling the intake, dab on some anti seize on the bolt threads. You'll thank me later if you ever need to pull the intake again.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

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    Thank you all for your advice. I got a bigger prybar and it came off with no problem.
    I still have the broken bolts. One of them snapped off and will have to be drilled and tapped. The other wont budge. I wacked them a few times with a hammer, soaked them in WD40 for 6 hours and picked the crap from around them.
    Anyone got any tips for drilling, using an eazy out, tapping, etc?
    I got the other intake all clean and assembled. Once I get those bolts out I will be good.

    Thanks again.
    Terry

    2017-04-29 16.33.20.jpg

    Big Rob. The one you gave me cleaned up real nice. Thanks again.

    2017-04-29 16.41.59.jpg

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    Soak it in penetrating oil and try a left handed drill bit. Easy outs are dangerous.
    Snaps off to easy. When mine broke I had enough nubs left to grab by pounding on a small "universeal" socket. The ones with small square teeth. And carefully working it out.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    Try some heat, torch it for awhile

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Soak it in penetrating oil and try a left handed drill bit. Easy outs are dangerous.
    Snaps off to easy. When mine broke I had enough nubs left to grab by pounding on a small "universeal" socket. The ones with small square teeth. And carefully working it out.
    Anything work better than WD40? Just gotta find the drill bit and the right size.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99WhiteD View Post
    Try some heat, torch it for awhile
    I will have to find my torch in my shed I have nicknamed the "Abyss".

  10. #10

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    Use PB nut buster. Way better than WD40

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99WhiteD View Post
    Use PB nut buster. Way better than WD40
    ^^^^ what he said, Plus some heat.


    99 DA CC R/T
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    PB Nut Buster and some heat. Got it!

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    Quote Originally Posted by TC-RT View Post
    PB Nut Buster and some heat. Got it!

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    I find Liquid Wrench better than PB Nutblaster. Kroil oil better than LWrench and 50/50 of acetone and tranny fluid better than all. I had a buddy who was a aviation mechanic. He used two methods:1. some stuff called Mouse Milk and the other was bee's wax poured over the heated bolt. He explained bee's wax has the smallest molecules of any liquid. He'd heat it, pour the bees wax on it then tapped it with a hammer a few times. Claimed it never failed. Personally, I think there is nothing better than heat. Have waited days for oils to work, couple minutes with heat.

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    Kingst3r's Avatar
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    Aerokroil works very well, worth the price tag. That, with some heat, and a stud extract socket has gotten many broken bolts out for me.


    My R/T build (rebuild) thread

    http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...d.php?t=133167
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    It's an emissions thing. someone, somewhere said that the millions of gallons of gas that evaporate to the atmosphere every year was killing tree frogs on some south african isalnd or some shit, those endangered tree frogs can suck my left nut.

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    Thanks for everyones help. I got one bolt out fairly easy, the other I ended up having to drill it out. I need to find out the bolt size so I can get the proper tap. Worse comes to worse since its a front bolt I can tap it one size bigger or put a nut and lock washer on the bottom since there seems to be room.

    ARRO222, I have seen mouse milk many times and no one at work had any. Never heard of the bees wax trick, but seems feasible.

    KINGST3R, I have heard of AeroKroil, but have never seen or used it. May have to add it to the list.

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    I drilled out the bolt with a combo drill bit and tap in one. Worked very well. It was made by Dewalt.

    Also got the idea from another forum member, cannot remember who, I cut the bolt heads off the old bolts and cut a slot in the top and made alignment pins when installing the intake. The slot will allow the use of a screwdriver to remove them.

    Also took another old intake bolt and cut grooves on either side of the threaded portion and use it to clean out the threads in the block. Worked fairly well.

    2017-05-04 19.10.15.jpg
    2017-05-04 19.08.32.jpg

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    Good idea on the alignment pins.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    Thanks BigRob. I cant take credit for it, but it looks like they will work out lining up the gaskets and intake. Not sure how it would be done otherwise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TC-RT View Post
    Thanks BigRob. I cant take credit for it, but it looks like they will work out lining up the gaskets and intake. Not sure how it would be done otherwise.
    I tried this when I did my intake. Didn't work with the distributor installed. You could glue the gaskets into place with the studs/bolts in place to line everything up.

  21. #21

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    So you are replacing your kegger because the plenum gasket is leaking? I don't understand why are you replacing your kegger with another kegger unless the "new" kegger already has the aluminum plenum plate and gasket installed on it already. If not it's all of 45 minutes to remove the plenum plate replace the gasket and re-install the plate. If the new keggar doesn't have the aluminum plate, I'd still replace the gasket or your are just doing this job for practice. And like everyone before more said I'd put a dab of anti-sieze on all four corners, they all tend to rust up. I'm just glad the two that snapped on mine were the front two also, but the back two were in pretty bad shape.
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

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    Lilwhitetruck,
    I got a free kegger and cleaned it up, added an aluminum plate so when I removed the old leaking kegger, I had an already built up kegger ready to go. Antiseize on the bolts as well.

    I went ahead and replaced the valve cover gaskets because they were leaking a little as well. New plug wires, cap, and rotor to go on too along with new radiator hoses.

    I got the kegger installed today. The torque sequence alone was a task in itself, but I know I did it correctly along with black rtv at all 4 corners near the water jackets. Just gotta get time to hook everything else up.
    2017-05-06 20.03.24.jpg

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    Wdh681,

    I put a tiny dab of rtv in 3 places on each gasket to hold them in place. I used 4 of the studs I made; 2 in the front holes and 2 halfway back. I tilted the kegger just enough to clear the distributor and sat it straight down using the studs to align it. Worked out good. Torqued everything to spec as shown in the manual.

  24. #24

    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Even though it's just a Kegger I'm glad someone is getting use out of it instead of throwing it in the scrap bin

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Even though it's just a Kegger I'm glad someone is getting use out of it instead of throwing it in the scrap bin
    One mans trash, is another mans kegger.

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