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Thread: Working on my Dakota build

  1. #1

    Default Working on my Dakota build

    I had this week booked off to work on the Dakota and other home projects. The engine was suppose to be ready for pick up on Friday but it's been delayed and I'm not happy about it but this opens the door to work on other things while waiting.

    Got the Dakota over to my buddies place and started the process of removing the engine. Bagged and tagged where every nut and bolt came from so it's easier to reassemble later. With two guys working on it we had the engine out within several hours.

    I'll post photos of the goings on...

    On the lift waiting to be worked on the next day, it's nice having access to a lift.
    IMG_8314 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    The next day started disassembly.
    IMG_8334 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Engine out
    IMG_8360 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Onto a skid for a potential transplant on another project
    IMG_8362 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:30 PM. Reason: NEW PHOTO LINKS

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  2. #2

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    On the weekend I should have the engine but I don't which is fine because lots of other stuff to do like replace the fuel pump. There are two choices, take the box off or try and release the tank from under the truck.

    We opt'd to go with take the box off. Six bolts, some electrical connections and the fuel filler neck screws at the fuel door. We forgot the spare tire shaft going to the rear bumper so it got bent but I don't use it anyways. We used four tie down straps hooked to the four tie down points in the bed and the other ends went around the roof joists. It couldn't have worked out better and the box came off easy with the use of the hoist.

    The fuel pump was easy to disconnect and swap in the new BOSCH replacement fuel pump. To my surprise the inside of the tank and the fuel filter was clean. I was expecting crap and crud.

    Well hung lol
    IMG_8434 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8433 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8432 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:37 PM. Reason: New photo links

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  3. #3
    niebs's Avatar
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    Look like fun. Can't believe your machine shop didn't get it done on schedule . What are you getting built?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Look like fun. Can't believe your machine shop didn't get it done on schedule . What are you getting built?
    Yeah, he's a professional machinist and doing his own thing for the first time so he's suddenly getting overwhelmed with work. I trust him do the best job making sure the work is perfect.

    Short description I'm having a 360 Magnum bored out 0.030" over, Hipotek 210xp cam with 110lsa, Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers, SS one piece valves, EQ cast iron heads, stock bottom end with Sealed Power pistons, 2800 stall from Hipotek, M1 intake and 52mm BBK.

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  5. #5

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    The rear axle along with the transmission was rebuilt 2 years ago with less than 10,000kms on them since then. I liked the G2 diff cover so I obtained one and installed with a Lubelocker gasket. New Lucas oil was added along with the additive for the locker.

    With the Hotchkis springs on the truck and the rear sitting 3" lower than stock, the sway bar or stabilizer bar comes into contact with the larger diff cover. If I move the ends of the stabilizer bar upwards (shorten the end link by half) it clears fine for the amount of suspension movement. So I'll have to get end links from Moog that are the steel type and shorten them.

    IMG_8423 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8424 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8431 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Noticed my shocks are upside down, the shop that re built the rear axle and trans must have done that because I know I didn't...
    IMG_8429 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr

    Next is major ass end cleanup while the box is off.
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:41 PM. Reason: new photo links

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  6. #6

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    The weather was nice so we secured the transmission and rolled it outside to do some chassis cleaning. Using Spray9 and scrub brushes, years of grunge came off fairly easy.

    IMG_8435 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8446 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8445 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    After..
    IMG_8484 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Secured trans, my god there is so much stuff in the engine bay. So much respect for the guys that hide all this stuff.
    IMG_8457 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    IMG_8456 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:50 PM. Reason: new photo links

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  7. #7
    mopar5.9's Avatar
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    Looking good very nice truck good luck with your build

  8. #8

    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Your shocks are upside down.

    It is cleaning up nice.

    "We got no fear no doubt all in balls out"

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t9-5.2 View Post
    Your shocks are upside down.

    It is cleaning up nice.
    Haha yeah I was waiting to see who would point that out, dunno what I was thinking years ago when I put them in. I'm flipping them tomorrow along with getting the stabilizer bar back on with new shortened end links. The box will go back on and hopefully the engine will be ready for pickup on Thursday

    Applied Locktite rust sealer (liquid vinyl) to the rusty spots and applied some paint.
    IMG_8490 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:50 PM.

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  10. #10

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    I did install the shocks the right side up! The guys at the trans/axle shop put them back on wrong AND never adjusted the drum brakes (that I did notice within a few blocks and gave them shit).

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  11. #11

    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Couldn't resist...

    The frame is looking good, cleaning up really nice.

    I would like to do that with mine but it would probably be a winter long project. Mine isn't rusty because I under coated it back when it was new. I hated to do it but it was a daily driver for the first four years and knowing if I didn't do it, it would have become a rust bucket with the de-Icer they coat the roads with.
    I have been fortunate that it hasn't seen winter duty since the winter of 02.

    "We got no fear no doubt all in balls out"

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Yeah, he's a professional machinist and doing his own thing for the first time so he's suddenly getting overwhelmed with work. I trust him do the best job making sure the work is perfect.

    Short description I'm having a 360 Magnum bored out 0.030" over, Hipotek 210xp cam with 110lsa, Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers, SS one piece valves, EQ cast iron heads, stock bottom end with Sealed Power pistons, 2800 stall from Hipotek, M1 intake and 52mm BBK.
    I like where the work you are doing. What made you decide to go with the cast iron EQ heads over buying aluminum?

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbank View Post
    I like where the work you are doing. What made you decide to go with the cast iron EQ heads over buying aluminum?
    Thanks, I went with the EQ heads as they were highly recommended. They are excellent castings with improved flow and not prone to cracking like the stock ones do. They are relatively inexpensive but they do require all machine work getting checked and corrected of any problems. I'm running lower compression 9.5:1 so I don't need aluminum heads or the added expense. Don't underestimate the potential of cast iron heads.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Thanks, I went with the EQ heads as they were highly recommended. They are excellent castings with improved flow and not prone to cracking like the stock ones do. They are relatively inexpensive but they do require all machine work getting checked and corrected of any problems. I'm running lower compression 9.5:1 so I don't need aluminum heads or the added expense. Don't underestimate the potential of cast iron heads.
    Thanks for the info. I am thinking my build will be similar to yours. Did you buy the bigger valves (2.02)? Also by what you are telling me you bought the heads complete, but still took them to a shop for a once over? I have been out of the wrenching business for sometime and to think of paying for something and have to take it to make sure the head is okay just makes my mind spin.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by redbank View Post
    Thanks for the info. I am thinking my build will be similar to yours. Did you buy the bigger valves (2.02)? Also by what you are telling me you bought the heads complete, but still took them to a shop for a once over? I have been out of the wrenching business for sometime and to think of paying for something and have to take it to make sure the head is okay just makes my mind spin.
    I went with bare heads as the complete heads have unknown valves and springs. I went with stock size valves. Here's what my machinist found on my heads, read his description in the link.
    https://instaliga.com/whiplashmachin...890_3289840730

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  16. #16

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    Flipped my Bilstein shocks around.
    Topped up the diff with oil as the larger cover allows for more oil than before.
    Measured up the stabilizer end links for how much to they need to be shortened and allow proper clearance and it's 2" shorter than stock.
    I didn't feel like doing the electrics yet so I started polishing the blue paint.

    With the weight of the box on the truck it's even closer, mm's so not good, but the fix will work.
    IMG_8504 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:55 PM. Reason: new photo link

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  17. #17

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    Modified my new Moog rear stabilizer end links today, made them 2" shorter which clears the new diff cover now.

    IMG_8506 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr

    IMG_8510 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:54 PM. Reason: new photo links

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  18. #18

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    So I'm a bit choked, I have no engine to install this weekend. Fingers crossed it will be ready today and he will call me but today is a holiday so I doubt it. I just wish he would have called me yesterday with an update like he said he would so I can plan my f'n weekend! I had help lined up, my buddies shop tied up, a nice trailer to load the engine in and time off work for this.

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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    So I'm a bit choked, I have no engine to install this weekend. Fingers crossed it will be ready today and he will call me but today is a holiday so I doubt it. I just wish he would have called me yesterday with an update like he said he would so I can plan my f'n weekend! I had help lined up, my buddies shop tied up, a nice trailer to load the engine in and time off work for this.
    I know what you mean....waiting for my m1 and 52mm t/b to come back from Hipotec.

    I watched your video on the heads, I am starting to search for a good machine shop in my area.

    Good job on the links, I believe your sway bar will perform better because my understanding is they should be horizontal with the body for best performance. At least this holds true when you lift a vehicle you need to replace sway bar links to keep the sway bar at the correct angle.

  20. #20

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    IMG_8496 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:57 PM. Reason: new photo link

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  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    I went with bare heads as the complete heads have unknown valves and springs. I went with stock size valves. Here's what my machinist found on my heads, read his description in the link.
    https://instaliga.com/whiplashmachin...890_3289840730
    I've always been a proponent of fitting the most amount of air in the smallest hole possible. Whether you have the 1.94's or the 2.02's, it's all about velocity. Boost by air induction is a prime example and it's why these trucks wake up with it. For a basic street machine, I think you're better off with the smaller. The nice thing about bare heads is that you can alter your valve openings to any size you want fitting your engine plan.

    Richard seems to sell a lot of the 210 cams. Hasn't seemed to prevent anyone who wants 11's from doing so with power adder and yet depending on the overlap, can be sniffer and street friendly.

  22. #22

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    Looking good! Hope you get the engine back soon!
    '03 Stampede Graphite Metallic Dakota R/T CC

    FRP tune, M1 2bbl, HiPoTek 52mm TB, K&N 14" Filter, Headers, Flowmaster duals

  23. #23

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    Make sure that truck is ready for summer so we can go for a rip!
    1998 Dakota R/T
    https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5Qwt4vRdHrM/UqZdWhLt2tI/AAAAAAAAAB8/WtseaWnGPTM/w732-h549-no/1384281_10151646266675723_1560687758_n.jpg

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99DakotaRTCC View Post
    Make sure that truck is ready for summer so we can go for a rip!
    Absolutely, it will be running by the end of this month so it shouldn't be an issue.

    Put the box back on today.

    The steering rack and pinion input shaft has a plastic cap that kinda completely disintegrated when touched, never scene anything like it before, it was like magic.
    IMG_8559 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr

    So the Dakota is officially green now. I recycled a juice cap modifying it for the perfect fit.
    IMG_8561 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 01:59 PM.

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  25. #25

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    Engine assembly is underway

    Grind and hone the con rods
    IMG_8393 by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Pistons protruding about 0.006" at TDC will provide a decent quench factor from stock.
    Zero Decked by Michael Wigg, on Flickr
    Last edited by Wiggsy72; 08-08-2017 at 02:02 PM.

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