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Thread: Engine wiring harness tuck

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    Osee's Avatar
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    Default Engine wiring harness tuck

    Has anyone done a clean wire tuck in the engine bay? I presume I'd need a 2nd harness to be able to extend leads to route them through the fenders and what not.

    P.S. carb trucks don't count


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    I did a long time ago, it was a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion. it took me two weeks to do it because I'm OCD as hell!
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    I did a long time ago, it was a lot of work but well worth it in my opinion. it took me two weeks to do it because I'm OCD as hell!
    got any pics, and did you need to extend any of the harness?

    also I know what OCD cable management is



    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    I tucked the main harness under the intake on my M1... took awhile cause I had to extend a harness. Msg me on fb I think I have pics. I can't post pics here takes too fuckin long
    1998 Silver RC SLT - Hughes 2.02 Heads, Mopar M1 4bbl Intake, Mopar 4bbl TB, 230/236 .515/.515 on a 110, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 4.10's, Spintech Headers, 3" Duals, X Pipe, Chambered Mufflers, 4/4 Drop, 727 Full Manual w/Transbrake, PTC 4500 Stall


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    Quote Originally Posted by KyleDedrick View Post
    I tucked the main harness under the intake on my M1... took awhile cause I had to extend a harness. Msg me on fb I think I have pics. I can't post pics here takes too fuckin long
    I haven't used my fb in like 5 years, text me 204-647-2265


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  6. #6




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    I removed the whole harness, removed all the factory tape and wire loom, replaced it all with blue loom and blue or silver tape. it was ran under the intake manifold, turned the injectors around so they were pointing in towards the intake runners. put the PCM in the fender so it was hidden also, I think I had to extend the IAT wires and one other sensor wires. I also did the Purge valve delete at the same time and put the 99 washer bottle on it. I was 22 or 23 when I did it so yeah it was bad but at that age I thought it was cool.
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    Remove entire harness, PCM and PDC and install carb.
    Done.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Remove entire harness, PCM and PDC and install carb.
    Done.
    Was waiting for Dave to chime in

    Like slammed said, put the PCM in the fender. I can't remember where I saw the pic on the forum, but someone had a piece of aluminum (I think), made up to cover the opening. Looked really good.
    1998 RC RT Black

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    Are all Engine wiring harnesses nearly identical be it 5.2 or 5.9 dakota, durango, ram, or van? I think I want to pull another harness out of a junkyard so I can use it to extend parts of the harness for cleaner routing.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    OK...2nd edit.

    Just get wire of the same ga., solder it in & cover with shrink wrap, just don't make all your splices in the same spot, you'll end up with a big lump.
    The wire you use to splice with doesnt have to be the same color as the stock wire, it's the two ends that count.
    Last edited by Adobedude; 04-25-2017 at 08:54 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    Are all Engine wiring harnesses nearly identical be it 5.2 or 5.9 dakota, durango, ram, or van? I think I want to pull another harness out of a junkyard so I can use it to extend parts of the harness for cleaner routing.
    No!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    OK...2nd edit.

    Just get wire of the same ga., solder it in & cover with shrink wrap, just don't make all your splices in the same spot, you'll end up with a big lump.
    The wire you use to splice with doesnt have to be the same color as the stock wire, it's the two ends that count.
    Makes sense, I just thought 1 connection might be better than the 2, I guess I just really need to make sure I do a really good job on the connections.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    Makes sense, I just thought 1 connection might be better than the 2, I guess I just really need to make sure I do a really good job on the connections.
    Small guage wire is easy to solder, get a good gun and don't over heat it.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    OK...2nd edit.

    Just get wire of the same ga., solder it in & cover with shrink wrap, just don't make all your splices in the same spot, you'll end up with a big lump.
    The wire you use to splice with doesnt have to be the same color as the stock wire, it's the two ends that count.
    Is there a reason for doing a solder joint vs stripping the wire back and using a non-insulated butt connector, crimping it and using heat shrink?
    1998 RC RT Black

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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffbcvt View Post
    Is there a reason for doing a solder joint vs stripping the wire back and using a non-insulated butt connector, crimping it and using heat shrink?
    Size of the splice is the only reason I can think of.
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  16. #16




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    Wire size will need to be increased when making the wire longer to maintain the same resistance of the circuit. On any sensor signal wires or computer data wires you need to use a solder and glue wall heat shrink as these circuits are very resistance sensitive and a butt connector increases resistance a small amount depending on wire length and crimp quality. You can use a heat shrink butt connector on power and ground feeds as they are not as sensitive to slight resistance increases.
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    ^^^ Truth.
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  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    Wire size will need to be increased when making the wire longer to maintain the same resistance of the circuit. On any sensor signal wires or computer data wires you need to use a solder and glue wall heat shrink as these circuits are very resistance sensitive and a butt connector increases resistance a small amount depending on wire length and crimp quality. You can use a heat shrink butt connector on power and ground feeds as they are not as sensitive to slight resistance increases.
    That thought never even crossed my mind. Makes perfect sense actually. Thanks for that bit of info.
    1998 RC RT Black

  19. #19

    DRTC #311

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    I cut and spliced most of my engine bay. It's a ton of soldering and took me forever. I bought a roll of larger black wire and was just very careful one-by-one not to mix them up. Some color combinations are used twice with different sizes. For example: I mixed up my OD and AC wires because they are both the same color brown. One was 16GA and the other 18GA, or something like that.

  20. #20


    Steve '02CC's Avatar
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    I grabbed something out of a Durango years ago and noticed that they used different colors on the wires than were used on the Dakota so I assume they changed the colors between the two. Anyone know if wire colors within the Dakota remained largely the same from year to year? Even if the harness works it may not be wise to use the wrong color patterns in case someone (possibly not you) ever references some documentation and ends up using the wrong wire.

    One thing that is annoying is how difficult it is to find wires with specific gauges, colors, and stripes.

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