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Thread: Crankshaft position sensor location?

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    Default Crankshaft position sensor location?

    Does anybody know where the camshaft position sensor is located ? Thanks!!

    1999 dodge Dakota R/T single cab

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    blackknight's Avatar
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    Under your distributor cap, and it's mounted between your transmission housing on top passenger side, behind the valve cover

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    The crankshaft sensor is located between the engine en transmission passenger side . if you remove your inner plastic spashguard . if you follow your transmission dipstick you will see it .

    The camshaft sensor is the one in the distributor cap . if you remove your distributor cap 2 bolts you will see it

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackknight View Post
    Under your distributor cap, and it's mounted between your transmission housing on top passenger side, behind the valve cover
    Sorry i did not see that you already replied

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    Quote Originally Posted by mopar5.9 View Post
    Sorry i did not see that you already replied
    Thanks for letting me now the difference between the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Really helpful!!
    Would this make my truck not start?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goober rt View Post
    Thanks for letting me now the difference between the camshaft and crankshaft sensor. Really helpful!!
    Would this make my truck not start?
    Usually when the crank sensor is bad your engine will crank but not start. and the camshaft sensor also can cause the same problem also engine stalling

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    Some times it will start. But right now it's just cranking. And when I haven't tryed starting it in a few hours it would backfire out of the intake.

    And thanks for the info I'm gonna start taking it apart tomorrow afternoon.

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    Pretty sure the crank sensor is known for failing.

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    Both the cam and crank sensors or magnetic picks, usually when they fail the fail completely, however since the tips are magnetic they'll accumulate debris and that can cause some goofy behavior.

    Pull them and clean the tips if they are dirty. Or just change them both. They aren't very expensive.
    Good luck !

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Both the cam and crank sensors or magnetic picks, usually when they fail the fail completely, however since the tips are magnetic they'll accumulate debris and that can cause some goofy behavior.

    Pull them and clean the tips if they are dirty. Or just change them both. They aren't very expensive.
    Good luck !
    Already bought the camshaft sensor I will replace it tonight thanks for the info !!

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    So just a update...I replaced the cam sensor and the cap and rotor while I was in there. I scanned the OBD and there's no more codes for the camshaft sensor! but the truck is still idling ruff? It's eather the Evap Pump solenoid or bad/ faulty wiring to the O2 sensor. Those are the only 2 codes popping up on the OBD scanner

    Any info helps Thanks guys!

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    Evap system won't cause a ruff idle. Go after the o2 problem next.
    Does it idle better after reaching normal operating temperature?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Evap system won't cause a ruff idle. Go after the o2 problem next.
    Does it idle better after reaching normal operating temperature?
    No it fills like it gets worse at normal temp. I bought the Evap pump anyways it cost $40 bucks. also I drove the truck about 15 miles today and 1 more code popped up. Misfire in cyl 6... I think that's because of the ruff idle thou. My truck died out at a red light... Started right back up

    Thanks for replying

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    Replace your O2 sensors. Then replace your plugs. If the tune is out of whack from bad sensors you may have fucked up and fouled out your spark plugs, which will cause further codes and tail chasing
    --Tom
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert View Post
    Replace your O2 sensors. Then replace your plugs. If the tune is out of whack from bad sensors you may have fucked up and fouled out your spark plugs, which will cause further codes and tail chasing
    I have a stock tune on my truck. My O2 sensor wires melted against the exhaust (not the sensor side. It's the side that goes to the harness). I went to pickNpull and found a Dakota Sport and cut the wires out of it. Went home and mached up the wire color... But the plug wasn't the same. I was still able to make it work easily.

    And thanks for your opinion. It makes sense about the cylinder misfire/spark plugs.

    Also my truck was running good before I messed around with the o2 wires. Maybe if I unplug the o2 it will run better.

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    Just a update. Problem solved my o2 sensor fuise was blown out. I replaced the fuise and the truck has been acting normal all day. No more ruff idling or stalling at red lights.

    Thanks everyone for helping me I really appreciate it. I hope this info helps the next guy

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