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Thread: Introduction 17 Years In The Making

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    Default Introduction 17 Years In The Making

    I've owned my 2000 Flame Red Club Cab Dakota R/T since new and I will keep it forever.

    I bought it on April 14, 2000 in Las Vegas with 20 miles on the clock. Gas cost $0.98 a gallon. I almost bought an F-150, but lurking on this forum when AOL was still cool convinced me that was a terrible idea. Yes, really. I'm glad I came out on the right side of things. Every time I see a tenth generation Ford, I throw up in my mouth a little bit.

    Grainy copy of the photo the dealer took in the lot in April of 2000 (notice the paper license plates). I did my first burnout about two minutes later:
    IMG_6499.jpg

    My truck took me off to college and grad school. It was a key part in some of my best and worst memories. Beers in the bed with high school friends before we all went off to start our lives. I'm just now realizing how many trips that truck made to the ER after someone said, "watch this" and then came up short. Other than a lot of tires and several dead batteries, it never let me down. Ever.

    In the spring of 2009, the oil pressure gauge started dropping to zero and then it would pop right back. Temperature was normal, there was oil on the dipstick, no burning smell, and it was driving great. I couldn't afford time or money on repairs, so I convinced myself it was a faulty sensor. Soon enough I heard what sounded like a spun bearing. Crap. At the exact same time, I got a job making a lot more money and decided to park my truck in mom's garage in Vegas where it wouldn't rust and bought something sporty. The plan was to rebuild the motor soon. Eight years, several motorcycles, a couple of sedans, and two Porsche's later, I'm ready to get back into my truck.

    I have meticulous records for every oil change, tire plug, and wiper blade. It has 115,000 miles and is completely stock, other than billet grill, clear corners, magna flow exhaust, and a cold-air intake. It still has the factory tape deck and the aftermarket 10-disc CD changer rocking through an FM modulator I installed years before the first iPod came out. I never planned on it sitting for this long, so it was parked wet. Battery out and stabilizer in the tank. Every now and then something would come up at the house that required moving the truck, so I ended up driving it about ten miles every two or three years. The registration tags expired in 2009.

    The plan is to keep the truck numbers-matching and go for "stock plus." No supercharger. Do the things I wanted to do when it was new, but could never afford. I'll put a motorcycle in the bed occasionally and do burnouts on Sunday mornings to piss of the neighbors. That's about it. It'll never go to a drag strip. I want to keep it a 360 NA motor, but upgrade the head, intake, and pistons, etc. Increase compression and wake up the cam. Air conditioning, heater, cruise control must all work. I live in Los Angeles now, so it HAS to be able to run well in stop and go traffic without stalling or overheating. I have no idea what to do about the transmission, which was serviced regularly but is also bone stock. The budget is a little flexible, but certainly not unlimited.

    I need your help! I have to decide exactly what I want to do to bring my truck back to life. I also need help finding a reputable shop to do the work in either Las Vegas or Southern California. I took a motorcycle engine apart and put it back together on my coffee table once to see if I could, but I wouldn't consider myself a mechanic. I'm also pressed for garage space, so I'll be letting the experts do the work. When the time comes, I'll start a build thread so everyone can follow along.

    Last year when I had to move to a different garage:
    IMG_4811.jpg

  2. #2
    Mark's Avatar
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    Cool story, welcome!
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

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    Very cool story! Most guys would have sold it years ago!
    Do some reading on other engine builds to start forming a plan. Transmission wise, I would probably run it as is. After some time back on the road you will know if it is still up to the task.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  4. #4

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    Your recipe is simple. If its just a spun bearing and no other damage do all the bearings for the mains and rods. Do the freeze plugs that are known to fail over time while you are there and throw it back together.

    Cam choices are infinite but typically in a mild build the 210x genre is the go to specs.

    Throw on some roller rockers while you are doing it with the correct length pushrods for the new cam.

    Heads. Simple, EQ heads are pretty much the go to head in iron and Edelbrock for aluminum. I would just stick with an iron head and save the budget as they are good for what they are.

    Intake manifold is harder to come by. An M1 is ideal but you may have to settle for an airgap due to availability. But the airgap should be fine for what you are doing.

    Richard from hipotek makes a very nice modified stock throttle body and I would stick with that, he can also get you all the hard parts you need and is a great vendor/guy.

    Transmission - you have one of the best mopar guys around in Martin Saine in the Riverside area. Look no further.

    Lastly you will want tuning from FRP who is a vendor here.

    You may also want to consider what parts you are after if you are going to try to register in california.

    Good luck!

    Todd


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

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    99dart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteRT View Post
    Your recipe is simple. If its just a spun bearing and no other damage do all the bearings for the mains and rods. Do the freeze plugs that are known to fail over time while you are there and throw it back together.

    Cam choices are infinite but typically in a mild build the 210x genre is the go to specs.

    Throw on some roller rockers while you are doing it with the correct length pushrods for the new cam.

    Heads. Simple, EQ heads are pretty much the go to head in iron and Edelbrock for aluminum. I would just stick with an iron head and save the budget as they are good for what they are.

    Intake manifold is harder to come by. An M1 is ideal but you may have to settle for an airgap due to availability. But the airgap should be fine for what you are doing.

    Richard from hipotek makes a very nice modified stock throttle body and I would stick with that, he can also get you all the hard parts you need and is a great vendor/guy.

    Transmission - you have one of the best mopar guys around in Martin Saine in the Riverside area. Look no further.

    Lastly you will want tuning from FRP who is a vendor here.

    You may also want to consider what parts you are after if you are going to try to register in california.

    Good luck!

    Todd
    Just what I was thinking, Todd. Just didn't feel like pecking it all out! LOL
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

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    Welcome back!

    Check out IMM in Indio,CA for engine rebuild. They are a mopar shop and have done some good work for members. Everything else WhiteRT said is spot on.

    Then come hang out in San Diego when you get it up and running. Great looking truck.
    HI. I like beer, burnouts, and boobies...


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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteRT View Post
    Your recipe is simple. If its just a spun bearing and no other damage do all the bearings for the mains and rods. Do the freeze plugs that are known to fail over time while you are there and throw it back together.

    Cam choices are infinite but typically in a mild build the 210x genre is the go to specs.

    Throw on some roller rockers while you are doing it with the correct length pushrods for the new cam.

    Heads. Simple, EQ heads are pretty much the go to head in iron and Edelbrock for aluminum. I would just stick with an iron head and save the budget as they are good for what they are.

    Intake manifold is harder to come by. An M1 is ideal but you may have to settle for an airgap due to availability. But the airgap should be fine for what you are doing.

    Richard from hipotek makes a very nice modified stock throttle body and I would stick with that, he can also get you all the hard parts you need and is a great vendor/guy.

    Transmission - you have one of the best mopar guys around in Martin Saine in the Riverside area. Look no further.

    Lastly you will want tuning from FRP who is a vendor here.

    You may also want to consider what parts you are after if you are going to try to register in california.

    Good luck!

    Todd
    Good info right there!

    Welcome back, truck looks good and sounds like you have a solid goal.
    '03 Stampede Graphite Metallic Dakota R/T CC

    FRP tune, M1 2bbl, HiPoTek 52mm TB, K&N 14" Filter, Headers, Flowmaster duals

  8. #8

    Corey's Avatar
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    Great story. With the strict CA Smog Laws always changing, this is what kept me from doing more on my build. Have fun with it, and make it what you've always wanted it to be. You have good advice from a bunch of nice guys!

    No offense to here, just something funny that came to my mind.

    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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    Thanks Todd! Good advice so far and on track for what I've been thinking.

    I have another toy that failed CA smog in September, October, and again in November, so that's an issue I'm more than familiar with. The RT has never been registered in CA and I'll probably keep it that way.

    When it was my daily driver, I had to worry about ground clearance to get down a very steep driveway. Looking forward to finally being able to lower the ride height. Probably just a 1, 2 drop. Maybe 2, 3. What says the group?

    021 (2).jpg

    CA smog might be easier than embedding pictures in this forum.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
    BIGROB's Avatar
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    17 years to come out of the closet? What the hell man!
    Anyway welcome aboard. Nice truck.
    I feel for you guys out in California, it must suck.
    We can get away with almost anything down here.

    I'm partial to stock ride height so my vote would be for that or a 1-2 drop at the most.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  11. #11

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    I like the stock height also.

  12. #12

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    A slight drop really cleans them up imo. I have some hotchkis parts still around shoot me a text, 916 549 0342 I can try to point you in a solid direction for Cali.


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

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    madboy's Avatar
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    Welcome!! Todd more or less described my combo and it is an awesome street setup!! Best of luck and enjoy


    Josh - 98 BLK RC - Mad Milkshake Maker
    Previous
    99 BLK RC - Mad Trash Hauler - sold
    99 DA RC - mad dak - Danno Stole it
    01 SLVR RC - mad sexy - retired - then died
    99 IB RC - mad RT - gone to heaven..



    Former Certified member of the 11 Second NA RT Club

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    Cool Story...Now cut it up and race the shit out of it.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Cool Story...Now cut it up and race the shit out of it.
    Don't listen to Dave, he suffers from altitude sickness.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    Welcome,and great to see someone else who has never parted ways with their toy.

  17. #17


    Steve '02CC's Avatar
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    That's such a cool history! I really just don't understand how so many change vehicles like they change a shirt. The history a vehicle gets the longer you own it is a value you cannot appreciate by swapping vehicles so much. I'm glad to see it's coming back better than ever with your planned upgrades!

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    My wife & I like keeping our vehicles for awhile too. 6, 8, 10 yrs is pretty normal. I've owned my R/T since Sept. 2000.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  19. #19

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    Welcome to the club I've had my truck since 2000 as well. Last year I just had the rear end rebuilt along with the transmission at 115,000 miles. The engine is still strong but for the first time it's getting a refresh with some more bang, pretty much what has been listed above by WhiteRT

    Whiplash Engine & Machine, FRP Tuned
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Owner View Post
    The plan is to keep the truck numbers-matching and go for "stock plus." No supercharger. Do the things I wanted to do when it was new, but could never afford. I'll put a motorcycle in the bed occasionally and do burnouts on Sunday mornings to piss of the neighbors. That's about it. It'll never go to a drag strip. I want to keep it a 360 NA motor, but upgrade the head, intake, and pistons, etc. Increase compression and wake up the cam.
    It is my understanding that the engine is not numbers matching by any means so do not worry about this. That was a 60's and 70's thing. But seeing as the engine has a spun bearing anyway, pull it and the break down will tell the truth and condition of the block. When it comes to increasing the compression there are pros and cons so look into it. The right parts matter and the type of fuel your going to burn. I'm staying in the 9.5:1 range. Research is the key to making the final decision for your build before go ahead and pulling the trigger. Very knowledgeable guys on here to help you out.

    Whiplash Engine & Machine, FRP Tuned
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

  21. #21

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    Welcome!

    Greetings from Ventura county.

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
    #1222

    r/DodgeDakota

  22. #22




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    I didn't read any of this post but make sure you get some free samples of bleach while you are here.....
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

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