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Thread: Engine build suggestions and opinions

  1. #1

    Default Engine build suggestions and opinions

    So I'm looking at building an engine for my Dak. I need to find out what I need to build for a street mean cruiser truck. What I do have is an M1 intake, electric fan, modified stock TB at 52mm and the shorty JBA header's.

    First Option: A refreshed 360, lumpy cam (dunno what), rollerized?, steel or aluminum heads?, bottom end components? SCT tune as well I'm sure of that. Basically need a list of the what's what and you guys are in the know.

    Second Option: I'm interested in building a 408 stroker but how much additional changes or upgrades are required? Looking for low rpm power not high rpm power. Can I run the stock injectors? If I increase them how much and will I need another type of fuel pump? Other stuff? I now that SCT programming will be required for it to run right. Again, a build list of components.

    Hopefully this would be beneficial for others looking at engine build ideas by getting some info and ideas from the guys on here that have already been through it and are in the know.

    Thanks

    Canadian Tire Performance Parts
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  2. #2
    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    So I'm looking at building an engine for my Dak. I need to find out what I need to build for a street mean cruiser truck. What I do have is an M1 intake, electric fan, modified stock TB at 52mm and the shorty JBA header's.

    First Option: A refreshed 360, lumpy cam (dunno what), rollerized?, steel or aluminum heads?, bottom end components? SCT tune as well I'm sure of that. Basically need a list of the what's what and you guys are in the know.

    Second Option: I'm interested in building a 408 stroker but how much additional changes or upgrades are required? Looking for low rpm power not high rpm power. Can I run the stock injectors? If I increase them how much and will I need another type of fuel pump? Other stuff? I now that SCT programming will be required for it to run right. Again, a build list of components.

    Hopefully this would be beneficial for others looking at engine build ideas by getting some info and ideas from the guys on here that have already been through it and are in the know.

    Thanks
    Since you're running the DRT Instagram, you can look at my IG and see some of the combos I've put together. Might give you a better idea of what you want.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

  3. #3

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    EQ iron heads with 1.7 roller rockers and mopar .600 springs
    210 through 218 cam
    Mopar hydrolic roller lifters
    Compcam 5/16" hardened pushrods measure for correct length
    CAI
    Stock oil pump is fine and fuel system doesn't need upgraded until you approach 400whp.
    New cap, rotor wires and 3292 Autolite plugs.

    Easy mods to do that will wake things up with a good tune. I would ditch the JBA shorties and get Spintech or PPH mids. You can easily see 300-325whp with just a top end rebuild. I would change out the cam bearings when installing a new cam. Port the heads and match port the M1 to get the most out the combo.
    2000 CC
    Forged 365ci, JE blower pistons with Hellfire rings, Indy 360 IM, F&B 58mm, 226/238 .544/.544 113lsa blower cam, PRW 1.6's, Stage 2 match ported EQ's, MSD, Paxton Novi 2000, Z-code 46RE with 3k stall, 4.56 Yukon with Detroit locker, QA1's, X-brace and panhard bar, caltracs, Spintec mids with dual 3", SCT, 17x8 & 17x11 BC Timeless Sixes with 255/55R17 Nitto 555's & 390/40R17 M&H Racemasters
    606whp 560tq 11.39@117 on 93 octane street tune


    Hi-Potek, PIE, Z-Code

  4. #4



    madboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    So I'm looking at building an engine for my Dak. I need to find out what I need to build for a street mean cruiser truck. What I do have is an M1 intake, electric fan, modified stock TB at 52mm and the shorty JBA header's.

    First Option: A refreshed 360, lumpy cam (dunno what), rollerized?, steel or aluminum heads?, bottom end components? SCT tune as well I'm sure of that. Basically need a list of the what's what and you guys are in the know.

    Second Option: I'm interested in building a 408 stroker but how much additional changes or upgrades are required? Looking for low rpm power not high rpm power. Can I run the stock injectors? If I increase them how much and will I need another type of fuel pump? Other stuff? I now that SCT programming will be required for it to run right. Again, a build list of components.

    Hopefully this would be beneficial for others looking at engine build ideas by getting some info and ideas from the guys on here that have already been through it and are in the know.

    Thanks
    Do you want to spend $5000 or $10000

    I'm serious... That is the first question IMO.

    I say keep it simple stockish rebuild nice heads and cam ala Ginders suggestions. If you don't plan to race reularly the power gained in a 408 all out build ain't worth it on a street truck. Save your $$.

    Call me anytime if you want to toss around ideas! Be happy to help you put together a parts list that will break or not break the bank


    Josh - 98 BLK RC - Mad Milkshake Maker
    Previous
    99 BLK RC - Mad Trash Hauler - sold
    99 DA RC - mad dak - Danno Stole it
    01 SLVR RC - mad sexy - retired - then died
    99 IB RC - mad RT - gone to heaven..



    Former Certified member of the 11 Second NA RT Club

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by madboy View Post



    Do you want to spend $5000 or $10000

    I'm serious... That is the first question IMO.

    I say keep it simple stockish rebuild nice heads and cam ala Ginders suggestions. If you don't plan to race reularly the power gained in a 408 all out build ain't worth it on a street truck. Save your $$.

    Call me anytime if you want to toss around ideas! Be happy to help you put together a parts list that will break or not break the bank
    Hi Josh, I was was thinking in the ballpark of $5-6k USD should put me close to $8k CDN as my max. So that should allow me to purchase some good components and some money left over if I do a refreshed stocker engine that can roll and breath easier. I will definitely contact Flyin Ryan to get setup for proper tuning.

    So it all comes down to what kind of goodies to put in it. I'm working on using a local guy, small shop, machinist with old school equipment like my dad used in his shop www.whiplashengines.ca

    Canadian Tire Performance Parts
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Hi Josh, I was was thinking in the ballpark of $5-6k USD should put me close to $8k CDN as my max. So that should allow me to purchase some good components and some money left over if I do a refreshed stocker engine that can roll and breath easier. I will definitely contact Flyin Ryan to get setup for proper tuning.

    So it all comes down to what kind of goodies to put in it. I'm working on using a local guy, small shop, machinist with old school equipment like my dad used in his shop www.whiplashengines.ca
    You dont have the budget for a 408. You answered your own question. I would refresh the 360 and pitch some boost at it. Honestly the best bang for the buck on a magnum bar none. They really like boost.

    Todd


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonesoldier79 View Post
    EQ iron heads with 1.7 roller rockers and mopar .600 springs
    210 through 218 cam
    Mopar hydrolic roller lifters
    Compcam 5/16" hardened pushrods measure for correct length
    CAI
    Stock oil pump is fine and fuel system doesn't need upgraded until you approach 400whp.
    New cap, rotor wires and 3292 Autolite plugs.

    Easy mods to do that will wake things up with a good tune. I would ditch the JBA shorties and get Spintech or PPH mids. You can easily see 300-325whp with just a top end rebuild. I would change out the cam bearings when installing a new cam. Port the heads and match port the M1 to get the most out the combo.
    Thanks for the list, just looking up all this stuff

    Canadian Tire Performance Parts
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteRT View Post
    You dont have the budget for a 408. You answered your own question. I would refresh the 360 and pitch some boost at it. Honestly the best bang for the buck on a magnum bar none. They really like boost.

    Todd
    Thanks Todd, wouldn't a supercharger be half the budget accompanied by headaches?

    Canadian Tire Performance Parts
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

  9. #9



    madboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Thanks Todd, wouldn't a supercharger be half the budget accompanied by headaches?
    At least and you will still need the tuning and a rebuild at least first on that high mileage bottom end.

    Good heads - $2500ish
    Rebuilt shortblock (stick with stock crank) but Good rods & Pistons - $1500ish
    Cam - $300
    Better headers and exhaust - $1000ish
    Bigger TB - $500ish
    Tuner / Tuning / wideband - $800isn
    You will still need a converter as well to match up with the cam - $500

    Check out Hipotek for parts ideas and an amazing can selection - He rocks!

    http://stores.hi-potek.com


    Josh - 98 BLK RC - Mad Milkshake Maker
    Previous
    99 BLK RC - Mad Trash Hauler - sold
    99 DA RC - mad dak - Danno Stole it
    01 SLVR RC - mad sexy - retired - then died
    99 IB RC - mad RT - gone to heaven..



    Former Certified member of the 11 Second NA RT Club

  10. #10

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    I'm way deep into over $5k and still counting. I spend over a year wheeling and dealing parts, bartering, trading, buy some, sell some and then buy more to keep the costs down to that level. To be honest if I can finish this project for under $7k I'll consider it a success on a low budget build. And this is a 360 NA build. No boost or stroker.

  11. #11

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    Looking at these cam kits on Jegs, not sure about the rpm range should be and I'm assuming when it says computer compatible "No" that this is okay because the SCT tune by Ryan will handle it?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K20-214-4/10002/-1

    1800-5800rpm range for that one. Others are like 3000-7000rpm too high? I dunno so I ask.

    Canadian Tire Performance Parts
    Instagram moderator for dakota_rt_club

  12. #12

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    That cam is for a flat tappet lifter. Magnum engines are hydraulic rollers

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Thanks Todd, wouldn't a supercharger be half the budget accompanied by headaches?
    I would freshen up bottom end with new bearings and such. Throw some boost at it with frp tuning. He has great success with sbe boosted builds. Jmo if you want to do something to get some punch out of it. Good luck either way


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

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    FlyinRyan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Looking at these cam kits on Jegs, not sure about the rpm range should be and I'm assuming when it says computer compatible "No" that this is okay because the SCT tune by Ryan will handle it?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K20-214-4/10002/-1

    1800-5800rpm range for that one. Others are like 3000-7000rpm too high? I dunno so I ask.
    I can handle the tuning for basically whatever camshaft you throw at it, computer compatible or not. But you're not looking at Magnum cams.
    Figure what you want before you order a cam, etc.
    I'd also recommend a budget rebuild and putting a small blower. It is easy enough to end up with a 475-525 whp that drives like stock.
    I do not understand the fear this RT crowd has when it comes to forced induction, the tuning is a breeze with the right data. The last boosted truck I did I finished in 5 revisions from start to finish.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

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    you can get a 408 short block for ~$3200 from like summit.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    you can get a 408 short block for ~$3200 from like summit.
    Yes, and the quality is complete shit.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wiggsy72 View Post
    Looking at these cam kits on Jegs, not sure about the rpm range should be and I'm assuming when it says computer compatible "No" that this is okay because the SCT tune by Ryan will handle it?

    http://www.jegs.com/i/COMP-Cams/249/K20-214-4/10002/-1

    1800-5800rpm range for that one. Others are like 3000-7000rpm too high? I dunno so I ask.
    Check out the cams on Hipotek site - he's one of the last supporting vendors we have and he knows his stuff!!


    Josh - 98 BLK RC - Mad Milkshake Maker
    Previous
    99 BLK RC - Mad Trash Hauler - sold
    99 DA RC - mad dak - Danno Stole it
    01 SLVR RC - mad sexy - retired - then died
    99 IB RC - mad RT - gone to heaven..



    Former Certified member of the 11 Second NA RT Club

  18. #18


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    You also want to figure in the "while you are in there" items like new motor mounts, water pump, timing cover, hoses, possibly torque converter, trans shift kit... and other items because you'll ant to replace them with the new rebuild.

    If you are unsure about cams, once you decide your path, e-mail Richard at HiPoTek, as he has helped me decide, for my current "slow-boat-to-china" rebuild.

    The intentions of using your R/T and sticking to your path, is the hard part. Open account, and you have no problem. Someone will always be faster, and have more power, so think about which way you want to go. You already have some good pieces, and have a shop willing to do the work. A lot of members here have years of experience with these trucks, so the advice is there to ask, just take it.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
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    I would go forged pistons and aluminum heads for boost, keep it a 360, get a good set of scat rods, stock crank will be fine, have fun!
    2000 Dakota R/T "Just bolt-ons"
    "Whippen that ass on PUMP GAS!" 9.262@144.69 200shot 10.258@132.78 motor


  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    I would go forged pistons and aluminum heads for boost, keep it a 360, get a good set of scat rods, stock crank will be fine, have fun!
    How much can stock rods actually take with realative safety?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", V-tech, R/T Cam, Performance Chip

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

    Car Build Thread https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...ost-1971625458

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    Stock rods are pretty tough but if going with an aftermarket piston I would get scat rods as paying to bush and recondition stock rods and install arp rod bolts would be the same price as buying a set of scat rods already set up.
    2000 Dakota R/T "Just bolt-ons"
    "Whippen that ass on PUMP GAS!" 9.262@144.69 200shot 10.258@132.78 motor


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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyinRyan View Post
    Yes, and the quality is complete shit.
    Ah that I wasn't sure about. Thats shitty.

  23. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    Stock rods are pretty tough but if going with an aftermarket piston I would get scat rods as paying to bush and recondition stock rods and install arp rod bolts would be the same price as buying a set of scat rods already set up.
    Oh for sure in that sense, I was just curious as I'll be running stock assembly.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", V-tech, R/T Cam, Performance Chip

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

    Car Build Thread https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...ost-1971625458

  24. #24
    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Is the bottom end fine? You may want to consider putting the money into the top, cam and valvetrain and then upgrade the rotating assembly when needed.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Is the bottom end fine? You may want to consider putting the money into the top, cam and valvetrain and then upgrade the rotating assembly when needed.
    The engine has 115000 miles on it. Rear main seal hemorrhages with synthetic, hardly any with conventional oil. I'm considering getting a 360 from the wreckers, broken down and fully gone over obviously. No shortage of these engines around.

    It's been a crazy busy day at work today and I'm just getting caught up on here.

    Making a short list of ideas on your suggestions. Thanks for your input guys. Those EQ heads are looking promising, stock crank is good, scat cons and forged pistons. Need to pin down a cam. Who sell's super charger's kits for these thing's anymore? I love them and the noise but I have always enjoyed a great naturally aspirated power plant.

    I have a lot of research to do and you guys are making it easier

    Canadian Tire Performance Parts
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