+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 29

Thread: Choosing the right A/A intercooler

  1. #1
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default Choosing the right A/A intercooler

    What is some good advise for choosing the right A/A intercooler for use in a supercharged application? Will be running a vortech V1 ( I believe it's an S trim, haven't actually checked the PN)


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  2. #2
    2dakotas's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    472

    Default

    Seeing as your truck is an 03, you will probably be moving the radiator back if you plan to do a front mount A/A intercooler. There just isn't any room.

    2012 Grand Cherokee Limited Wife's car - 4X4, Hemi
    2003 Dakota RT RC, Hughes intake and throttle body, D1SC Procharger, 5-speed
    2009 Challenger RT, 6-speed, sportlines, x-pipe, Dynatech mufflers.

  3. #3
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    I have the truck in pieces now and forgot to measure when it was still together, how much room is there? I'm not afraid of cutting up the bumper if need be.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  4. #4
    2dakotas's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    472

    Default

    When I made a rough measurement, I was going to need to move the radiator back about 3" to have enough room to do a front mount and keep my A/C. It looks to be very doable, but I'm having to go back to a stock motor for now with no boost, so it will be awhile, before I even look at doing it. It may be easier to go with a 98-99 radiator, since it mounts to the inside of the core support, unlike the 2000 and newer trucks.

    2012 Grand Cherokee Limited Wife's car - 4X4, Hemi
    2003 Dakota RT RC, Hughes intake and throttle body, D1SC Procharger, 5-speed
    2009 Challenger RT, 6-speed, sportlines, x-pipe, Dynatech mufflers.

  5. #5
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 2dakotas View Post
    When I made a rough measurement, I was going to need to move the radiator back about 3" to have enough room to do a front mount and keep my A/C. It looks to be very doable, but I'm having to go back to a stock motor for now with no boost, so it will be awhile, before I even look at doing it. It may be easier to go with a 98-99 radiator, since it mounts to the inside of the core support, unlike the 2000 and newer trucks.
    Isn't the 99 rad smaller aswell? not that I have a heat issue up here anyways...


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  6. #6
    Sick 660r's Avatar
    gen III traitor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    5,445

    Default

    There's no room for a decent size A/A which is why I went A/W. keep in mind I have a separate SC belt so I couldn't move the rad back much and I need to leave room for a blower brace.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  7. #7
    2dakotas's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    472

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    There's no room for a decent size A/A which is why I went A/W. keep in mind I have a separate SC belt so I couldn't move the rad back much and I need to leave room for a blower brace.
    Good point. With my Procharger, it runs off the serpentine belt, so there is room to move the radiator back about 3.5".

    2012 Grand Cherokee Limited Wife's car - 4X4, Hemi
    2003 Dakota RT RC, Hughes intake and throttle body, D1SC Procharger, 5-speed
    2009 Challenger RT, 6-speed, sportlines, x-pipe, Dynatech mufflers.

  8. #8
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    There's no room for a decent size A/A which is why I went A/W. keep in mind I have a separate SC belt so I couldn't move the rad back much and I need to leave room for a blower brace.
    Yeah, There's no way I'm running an A/W up here, with my luck it will freeze on me. Not to mention it's always boost weather up here, so a Quality A/A should be plenty for a supercharged application. I know cregger is running a Treadstone intercooler, anyone else have any experience with them? I know nothing is like a garret but... $$$


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  9. #9
    Sick 660r's Avatar
    gen III traitor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    5,445

    Default

    Bell is the way go for cores.

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    There's no room for a decent size A/A which is why I went A/W. keep in mind I have a separate SC belt so I couldn't move the rad back much and I need to leave room for a blower brace.
    Same here, then I ended up moving the rad to the back. Besides, most cheap A2A suck unless you spend big money for a Treadstone or Garrett core and they still don't touch the performance of even a semi-decent A2W..
    HTTP://WWW.BRIANESSER.COM
    2000 Dodge Dakota RC, 5.3/4L80e, Twin 69mm, A2W, 2x44mm Gates/50mm BOV, E85, MS3x/Microsquirt

    HTTP://WWW.PART-TRACE.COM
    Casting Number Database Project - Over 11,000 Casting, Part #, Engine ID and RPO Numbers

  11. #11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    Yeah, There's no way I'm running an A/W up here, with my luck it will freeze on me. Not to mention it's always boost weather up here, so a Quality A/A should be plenty for a supercharged application. I know cregger is running a Treadstone intercooler, anyone else have any experience with them? I know nothing is like a garret but... $$$
    Most guys run some RV antifreeze mixed in during the winter.
    HTTP://WWW.BRIANESSER.COM
    2000 Dodge Dakota RC, 5.3/4L80e, Twin 69mm, A2W, 2x44mm Gates/50mm BOV, E85, MS3x/Microsquirt

    HTTP://WWW.PART-TRACE.COM
    Casting Number Database Project - Over 11,000 Casting, Part #, Engine ID and RPO Numbers

  12. #12

    Slow RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Mobile, AL
    Posts
    941

    Default

    just avoid the ebay cxracing ones unless you get the big core, like 4" thick. IMO, a vertical row intercooler would be the best bet for our cfm/hp needs, but the trade off is slightly less cooling ability, depending on the size you can fit and where you put it. on that same point, if you can fit a decent size one like say a 25x9 vertical like mine, and place it in the grill where the entire core will be exposed to air flow, then it would be more efficient than a horizontal. unfortunately most people don't have the room i do bc of a/c or factory radiator. packaging is the biggest issue with the verticals, its hard to fit them anywhere that has full access to flowing air, which they need bc the air passes through them much more quickly than a horizontal core. vertical is more efficient bc the higher flow rate allows much less pressure drop and also means you won't work the blower or turbo nearly as hard which results in less heat entering the core anyway. the horizontal cores advantage is that the air stays in them longer due to the length of the runners so more heat is dissipated and lower iat temps achieved....the trade off, especially on supercharged applications, is pressure drop through the core. far as brands, i just ordered the treadstone vertical for my setup. while treadstone is not on par with garrett, they are well above the cheap ebay ones and don't cost much more, and they are american made in florida. if you notice the cores side by side looking inside, you want to see staggered fins like treadstone and garrett, not straight fin like ebay cheapos. they also have a diverter in them that directs air to the top of the core unlike most intercoolers where the air mostly flows through the bottom half directly across the inlet/outlet if they are inline with each other. plenty of people run treadstone with great success, plenty have also ran the bigger ebay cores with success but one would be inclined to wonder how much they could pick up with a better core, plenty of people run bell cores but they are expensive, and garrett is probably the best core out there and expensive as well, but there is a reason shearer fab and other big boy intercooler guys only use garrett cores. in summary, the sizing and fitment of any a/a comes down to finding a balance between cooling ability, mass cfm flow, and packaging abilty on your ride.
    "Burn Rubber, Not Your Soul." -Biker Boyz

    1999 intense blue regular cab r/t

    Old setup: 408, fully forged, half filled block, eddy heads, m1, 236/232 116 .612 cam, 3600 stall, BW S480 turbo, 4" exhaust, 12lbs boost, Flyin' Ryan tuned.

    New setup: 345 gen3 hemi, Manley forged pistons & rods, 6.1 crank, 6.1 heads, 6.1 cam, Ritter intake, 727 w/t-brake, BW S480 turbo, Holley dominator efi.

    Still building: 5.7 based forged 392 stroker, custom cam, thitek heads, twin s480s, all the boost.

  13. #13


    Bang4theBuck's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Pennsville NJ
    Posts
    755

    Default

    No IC here.... Windshield washer fluid gets it done My IAT temps are less than ambient. With methanol injection you will spend less on a progressive kit than on a FMIC, couplers, etc. and less than $10 a year on windshield washer fluid. Food for thought.

    Vortech V-3, 52mm TB, EQ Heads, "R/T" Cam, MSaine VB, 2800 Stall, HS 1.7's, 11.6 @ 119 in 1/4

  14. #14




    slammedR/T's Avatar
    "Bleach Master"

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL.
    Posts
    3,910

    Default

    I would go A/W, just look at Joe's set-up (sick 660R)
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  15. #15
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bang4theBuck View Post
    No IC here.... Windshield washer fluid gets it done My IAT temps are less than ambient. With methanol injection you will spend less on a progressive kit than on a FMIC, couplers, etc. and less than $10 a year on windshield washer fluid. Food for thought.
    I already have a snow meth kit controller solenoid pump thingy, I'm thinking with the cold ambient air temps up here a good A/A treadstone should be sufficient for the street, and I'll have the meth kit if I get crazy.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  16. #16
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    I would go A/W, just look at Joe's set-up (sick 660R)
    It's a dope setup, Just I don't know If A/W is necessary. I still need to cool down the fluid in the loop with air , can't top up ice while driving down the street.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  17. #17
    Sick 660r's Avatar
    gen III traitor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    5,445

    Default

    Does anyone have data or experience moving the filter out of the engine bay? I saw an increase of 9 degrees from vac during cruising to 11 psi but I'm not happy with my IAT's in reference to ambient temps and I believe it's due to my filter location. I'm also considering coating the pipes and intercooler. Having the intercooler over the driver side VC and header doesn't help.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  18. #18
    Sick 660r's Avatar
    gen III traitor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    5,445

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    It's a dope setup, Just I don't know If A/W is necessary. I still need to cool down the fluid in the loop with air , can't top up ice while driving down the street.
    I just run water, no ice. It's nice having the option to run ice though, just need to bypass the heat exchanger and that only requires one fitting.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  19. #19

    Slow RT's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Mobile, AL
    Posts
    941

    Default

    i run both methanol and a/a, but being that i am turbo'd, methanol helps me more anyway due to the naturally higher iats from a heat soaked turbine housing. i'm not knocking an a/w setup bc it does work and works much better at the track than just an a/a setup since you can cool iat's below ambient with ice for a run, but there is more involved to fit and setup than a simple a/a, plus worrying about pumps/wiring issues (rare i know, but still possible) and such. as i said before, this is really something that you have to find a balance to suit you between packaging and effectiveness. Methanol is a good suggestion. i had nothing on my old paxton novi setup to help iats and never had problems even with 150+ iats, but methanol would certainly have been a huge help when getting into boost, especially on a track run.
    "Burn Rubber, Not Your Soul." -Biker Boyz

    1999 intense blue regular cab r/t

    Old setup: 408, fully forged, half filled block, eddy heads, m1, 236/232 116 .612 cam, 3600 stall, BW S480 turbo, 4" exhaust, 12lbs boost, Flyin' Ryan tuned.

    New setup: 345 gen3 hemi, Manley forged pistons & rods, 6.1 crank, 6.1 heads, 6.1 cam, Ritter intake, 727 w/t-brake, BW S480 turbo, Holley dominator efi.

    Still building: 5.7 based forged 392 stroker, custom cam, thitek heads, twin s480s, all the boost.

  20. #20
    Sick 660r's Avatar
    gen III traitor

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    5,445

    Default

    Personally I hate the maintenance of Meth on anything other than track only setup. I agree about the pumps, fans etc but I didn't have room with the Paxton belt. I still have my Meth kit from back in the day that I plan to use on the gen II.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

  21. #21

    Duner's Avatar
    Turbo Dakota Junky

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Chandler, AZ
    Posts
    5,133

    Default

    Heat up a piece of metal with a torch.
    Blow on it for 10 seconds with a blow gun, fan, whatever.
    Touch it with your finger.
    Put bandaid on your blister.

    Heat the same piece of metal with a torch.
    Run it under the hose for 10 seconds.
    Touch it with your finger.
    No more bandaids required.

    Any questions about effectiveness of air cooling when compared to water cooling?
    Duner
    4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
    5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's

    1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH

  22. #22
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,300

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    Heat up a piece of metal with a torch.
    Blow on it for 10 seconds with a blow gun, fan, whatever.
    Touch it with your finger.
    Put bandaid on your blister.

    Heat the same piece of metal with a torch.
    Run it under the hose for 10 seconds.
    Touch it with your finger.
    No more bandaids required.

    Any questions about effectiveness of air cooling when compared to water cooling?
    True, but you still need to cool down the water after it gets heat soaked, and that's done with air. You've got a super unique system using the A/C to cool it.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  23. #23

    Cregger's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Frederick, Md
    Posts
    517

    Default

    http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...rcooler++760HP

    Im using this one. I had to get a radiator from an 99 to have the room to fit the intercooler. My truck is 98% street driven. If it wasn't I would have done a a/w. A liquid is the best way to transfer temp
    10.25 @131 SBE 5.9 360 turbo!!!

    Check me out on YouTube - ThatTurboDakota

  24. #24

    Hugh Jassole's Avatar
    Shoo Shoo Retarded Flu !!

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Deep in the Swamps of Jersey
    Posts
    7,310

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bang4theBuck View Post
    No IC here.... Windshield washer fluid gets it done My IAT temps are less than ambient. With methanol injection you will spend less on a progressive kit than on a FMIC, couplers, etc. and less than $10 a year on windshield washer fluid. Food for thought.
    need to talk to you about a full repaint, when you get a chance
    "the vast majority of the people on this website are such tight asses that they could probably squeeze out diamonds - but they'd never spend the money to buy the coal' - Steve F. 2012

    "Don't be obsessed with your desires Danny. The Zen philosopher Basho once wrote, "A flute with no holes is not a flute, and a doughnut with no hole is a Danish" - Ty Webb, 1980

  25. #25
    BIGROB's Avatar
    I killed Goose

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Thibodaux, Louisiana
    Posts
    874

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Duner View Post
    Heat up a piece of metal with a torch.
    Blow on it for 10 seconds with a blow gun, fan, whatever.
    Touch it with your finger.
    Put bandaid on your blister.

    Heat the same piece of metal with a torch.
    Run it under the hose for 10 seconds.
    Touch it with your finger.
    No more bandaids required.

    Any questions about effectiveness of air cooling when compared to water cooling?
    I like your scientific method

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •