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Thread: Opinions on this camshaft please

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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Default Opinions on this camshaft please

    Anyone care to share thoughts or opinions on my camshaft choice of the Comp Cams 20-604-9 before I pull the trigger?

    This will be going into my mild 408 build. Mild because it is a street truck only, engine being built more as a torque monster / stump puller than a high revving screamer.

    408 with a target compression ratio around 10:1 (No plans for boost but you fuckers will try and talk me into it and I might cave in later)
    Aluminum 2.02 valve eddies
    1.7:1 roller rocker arms.
    Airgap Fi intake (whatever, haters gonna hate) because I want the torque down low. If it causes asthma I’ll swap to an M1 4bbl.
    Spintech mids and dual 3” open exhaust, no kitty cats.
    Stock stall converter, but might try one of the Martin Saine 2800’s
    Leaving the stock 3.92 gears in the rear.
    Will be tuned by Flyin Ryan.

    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=664&sb=2
    COMP 20-604-9.jpg
    Last edited by BIGROB; 10-06-2016 at 02:27 PM. Reason: Added link

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    kota360's Avatar
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    I'm wondering why you are putting 1:7 rockers with this cam. If you want more lift, call Comp and have them grind the cam with that amount of lift. Using a different rocker other than what the cam manufacturer has recommended is a fine tuning tool. Just have it ground with specs you want right off the bat.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Cause I've already have some new 1.7's that will work on the Eddies and trying to save another $350

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    That cam is WAY!!!! too small for a 408, I'm running that same cam in my father's 1990 ramcharger with a stock head 360 magnum with headers, 750 carb, and M1 4bbl.
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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    That cam is WAY!!!! too small for a 408, I'm running that same cam in my father's 1990 ramcharger with a stock head 360 magnum with headers, 750 carb, and M1 4bbl.
    What would you suggest Bleach Master? With 1.7s lift would be .544 and I've read that the Eddies don't flow much more past.550
    Or do you mean duration and LSA? I don't want a lopey idle or vacuum issues.

    You can call me a dumbass and set me straight, i won't mind. I gots thick skin

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    Eddy heads are good over .600" lift, I would run a 110 lsa cam for better street manners, I would want to be around 236/245 duration at .050" and around .575"/.615" lift with an aftermarket piston with valve reliefs.
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    slvr03dakrt's Avatar
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    I would go bigger on the cam. I built a 408 with a 228/230 cam and it was all done at 5600rpm and had tons of tq. It paired nicely with a 2800 converter and had great street manners and decent mpg.


    Forged 408 12.10 @ 111mph under the knife again

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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    Well looks like I got some more reading and planing to do.
    I was thinking 112 LSA would give a broader torque curve and better street manners.
    Haven't ordered pistons yet so a little more lift is no problem.

    Sorry for the noob questions guys, I probably sounds like a dumbass that shouldn't be building an engine.... But I know my way around an engine, been in the automotive & industrial engine business for 15 years. I just don't have first hand experience building performance and how different combos work together. Building and repairing stock shit is boring.

    I appreciate the input, keep it coming.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  9. #9

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    I used a small cam in my 408 build, something close to this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...iew/make/dodge I also used Rhodes lifters, It just barely has any lope, it does drive very nicely on the street, almost a sleeper other then the Procharger whine.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    Well looks like I got some more reading and planing to do.
    I was thinking 112 LSA would give a broader torque curve and better street manners.
    Haven't ordered pistons yet so a little more lift is no problem.

    Sorry for the noob questions guys, I probably sounds like a dumbass that shouldn't be building an engine.... But I know my way around an engine, been in the automotive & industrial engine business for 15 years. I just don't have first hand experience building performance and how different combos work together. Building and repairing stock shit is boring.

    I appreciate the input, keep it coming.
    You don't sound like a dumbass, you actually sound intelligent just lacking experience in the performance side of things. You are showing that you are smart by asking questions first instead of after.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gokota View Post
    I used a small cam in my 408 build, something close to this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...iew/make/dodge I also used Rhodes lifters, It just barely has any lope, it does drive very nicely on the street, almost a sleeper other then the Procharger whine.
    Running boost is a different scenario, that 114 lsa and mild overlap is great for running boost, but I would like more lift and a little more duration at .050" with a 400+ cubic inch engine.
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    You don't sound like a dumbass, you actually sound intelligent just lacking experience in the performance side of things. You are showing that you are smart by asking questions first instead of after.
    When the fuck did you become positive and nice?


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gokota View Post
    I used a small cam in my 408 build, something close to this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...iew/make/dodge I also used Rhodes lifters, It just barely has any lope, it does drive very nicely on the street, almost a sleeper other then the Procharger whine.
    Thanks. Posting a specific cam that I can compare specs with really helps me understand the differences.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    When the fuck did you become positive and nice?
    Hey. Leave the bleach master alone
    Us assholes stick together

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    So from the feedback I'm getting this would be closer to the preferred camshaft for my goals?

    224/230 .573/.568 110lsa 1900-5900 RPM range.

    http://stores.hi-potek.com/hipotek-h...18-360-magnum/

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    I am not building a 408 like yours, but Richard from HiPoTek helped me choose a cam for my build. It is a modified grind to suit my build. I had two close grinds to choose, let him pick one, know it is going to be better than the stock cam. I didn't and still don't know much about cam grinds, but listing all you can about what you have and what you will be adding in the future, including the vehicle's intention, is helpful to those that know cams. Taking advice is the next step.
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    I absolutely will be speaking with the cam supplier before order one and will take their advise. Probably will use Richard from Hi-PoTek to source my camshaft.

    But as part of my edumacashum I want to understand cam specs and see how close I can get to the grind that fits my goals, then compare it to the expert's choice. So I can understand where I'm off and learn why.

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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    I guess i should also explain my goals a little clearer.

    Other than a freshly built "strong" engine and a good stereo system this truck will remain stock.
    For me learning and doing it myself is half the fun.
    Not really concerned with horsepower numbers and 1/4 mile times (blaspheme !)
    Fuel efficiency is not a big concern either since this is not a daily driver.
    Just trying to setup a nice Dakota R/T like I've always wanted, then we can both grow old and rust away together.

    Anything more radical will have to wait until R/T #2.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  19. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGROB View Post
    I guess i should also explain my goals a little clearer.

    Other than a freshly built "strong" engine and a good stereo system this truck will remain stock.
    For me learning and doing it myself is half the fun.
    Not really concerned with horsepower numbers and 1/4 mile times (blaspheme !)
    Fuel efficiency is not a big concern either since this is not a daily driver.
    Just trying to setup a nice Dakota R/T like I've always wanted, then we can both grow old and rust away together.

    Anything more radical will have to wait until R/T #2.
    Let me start off with I have knowledge on engines and know my way around with a wrench. But to clarify, what I know seems to be almost in the toilet these days because back in the days I was doing engines, the most sophisticated thing we had was a timing light. Now you need a computer.
    I'm almost afraid to open my mouth here but everything I know (which remember is in the toilet) states that a lower duration cam is more beneficial for bottom end torque. The cam you chose may be just
    about perfect for you because with your 1.7's, that cam that started off at .512 is at now a .544 lift. You will also extend your duration a couple few points. The more c.i. in an engine such as you have, the smaller everything will seem to the larger air pump. That size cam with a 112 lsa may just put a smile on ur face.
    To throw the monkey wrench, the tuner guy states he doesn't care what you put in there, he'll make it run the way you want but I think you'd be happy with that cam..

    You gotta remember something here: the fine gentlemen who have stuck with this forum and give their advice freely, are running some very fast trucks. The middle of the road guys do not often contribute as much. There may be bias's to contend with as a result.

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    niebs's Avatar
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    I think you should state again that you are looking for low rpm torque. No need for a cam that likes to run from 1900-5900. right?

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    I think you should state again that you are looking for low rpm torque. No need for a cam that likes to run from 1900-5900. right?
    Correct, low RPM torque.
    I'd like to run stock or very low stall converter. When Flyin Ryan tunes it I'll ask for target shift points around 5200-5400 anyway.

    arro222 hit it right one the head. Most old school thinking doesn't apply any more and that's what you get by reading a lot of books and material I've digested.

    I have an SCT X3 on order with Flyin Ryan right now, I'm hoping he chimes in or I get to discuss it with me when he sends the tuner.

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    That cam in the OP would be great.....in a 318.

    The smallest I typically recommend is 220/230 110 LSA .544 lift. 10:1 is weak sauce with aluminum heads.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
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    BIGROB's Avatar
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    My thinking was 10:1 would leave the door open for boost if choose to down the road.
    And I think 112 LSA is the lowest I'll go. I don't care if I'm leaving a little power on the table.

    Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed

  24. #24

    BIGROB's Avatar
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    After more reading and y'all feedback I think I've settled on this one. On a 110 LSA, since a 112 may be too mild even for a mild 408. Plus I've decided I'll run a 2500-2800 stall when I get my Martin Saine transmission.

    What you guys think?

    http://stores.hi-potek.com/hipotek-h...18-360-magnum/

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  25. #25
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    Sounds good to me....run a 2800 converter.

    I always go larger on the camshaft than conventional wisdom suggests.
    RYAN/TUNED

    Got questions?!? Get the answers ->>> http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...estions-thread
    For fastest response please text or email at ryan@frptuning.com ,please no PM's!!!

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