+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4
Results 76 to 89 of 89

Thread: Nitrous 360 build

  1. #76
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Mary Esther, Florida
    Posts
    1,217

    Default

    That will do it

    Mostly stock:
    Open air Cleaner
    52mm TB
    No cat, flowmaster
    Way more mods to come

  2. #77
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    893

    Default


  3. #78

    Default

    Excellent. I knew it was something simple. 485 on spray.

  4. #79
    Osee's Avatar
    AutoZone Perfomance Parts

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Ethelbert, Manitoba
    Posts
    2,022

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    think we found the culprit. Looks like the crank sensor wires got pinched between the bellhousing and firewall (thus cutting all three wires). Putting in a new one today. Ill keep the update coming. Pics to come soon just need to upload them. What site does everyone use? all my phone pictures are too big.
    http://imgur.com/

    after you upload it, copy and paste the bb code link into your post, and that's all you need to do


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", V-tech, R/T Cam, Performance Chip

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

    Car Build Thread https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...ost-1971625458

  5. #80


    Slowkoda's Avatar
    #BECAUSERACETRUCK

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Longmont, Colorado
    Posts
    179

    Default

    Got the crank sensor swapped out... still no luck or spark. Im really at a loss for were else to look.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  6. #81

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Got the crank sensor swapped out... still no luck or spark. Im really at a loss for were else to look.
    Ah crap. You have a multi meter Slow that measures DC volts?

  7. #82

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Got the crank sensor swapped out... still no luck or spark. Im really at a loss for were else to look.
    Ok, we'll figure this out. We'll work backward. You know you have no spark at the plugs. First, your coil wire is definitely inserted well into the distributor cap? 2. you have any spark at the coil?

  8. #83


    Slowkoda's Avatar
    #BECAUSERACETRUCK

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Longmont, Colorado
    Posts
    179

    Default

    could the problem possibley be it being timmed 180 off?


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  9. #84


    ScojoDak's Avatar
    Black Pearl

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Kingman, Az
    Posts
    2,582

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    could the problem possibley be it being timmed 180 off?
    Absolutely.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  10. #85
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    893

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    could the problem possibley be it being timmed 180 off?
    It will still show spark tho.

  11. #86


    Slowkoda's Avatar
    #BECAUSERACETRUCK

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Longmont, Colorado
    Posts
    179

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    It will still show spark tho.
    See ive been told both ways that is its 180 off i will spark and ive also been told vice versa


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  12. #87

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    See ive been told both ways that is its 180 off i will spark and ive also been told vice versa
    It can do both depending on the distance or how far the spark has to jump. You need to see if you have arcing within the distributor. If you have full arcing within the cap, you would have no spark at the plug. It is easy enough to see if you are out of phase. Either compression or exhaust tdc at no. 1, check to see if your rotor is pointing to no. 1 cylinder.
    I have seen cars actually "run" (though lousy) being 180* off and I have seen no spark at all at the plugs. Hopefully there is indeed a rotor under the cap. Don't laugh...I've made that mistake.

  13. #88
    niebs's Avatar
    Senior Member

    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    North DE
    Posts
    893

    Default

    Well I meant at the coil. Which I do hope he has checked spark there first. But yes, with if the distributor it could be either one. Depends on the phasing.

  14. #89

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    Well I meant at the coil. Which I do hope he has checked spark there first. But yes, with if the distributor it could be either one. Depends on the phasing.
    He hasn't stated if he'd done so. Easy enough to check if after the coli. Put a plug into the distributor coil wire, ground the plug and if you have spark, you know you have current at the coil. Haven't looked at mine but are these 2 or 3 wire crank sensors because your next step is to check if you're getting 12 volts to the crank sensor where you'll need a multi meter. I'm wondering if you have sufficient inductance interruption where you might need to shim at the cs? I'm ahead of myself. Do the other stuff first.
    Last edited by arro222; 04-25-2017 at 11:46 PM.

+ Reply to Thread
Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4

Posting Permissions

  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •