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Thread: Nitrous 360 build

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    Slowkoda's Avatar
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    Default Nitrous 360 build

    So ive begun my winter project of rehashing my 360 and though i would start up a forum for everyone to follow while they were bored at work . So a little about the engine:

    Bottom End:
    Forged mopar crank with scat forged i beams that are. Keith black flat tops.

    Top end: (in the process)
    Hughes 230/234 .565 .571 cam
    Hughes eq heads with 2.02 1.61 stainless valves with bronze valve guides
    Hughes roller rocker arms at 1.6 ratio.
    Pushrods are To Be Determined, i know im going hardened but dont know length and width yet.
    28lb injectors and billet rails with the crossover.
    52 or 53mm throttle body and Hughes/Edelbrock air gap.

    There is probably more that im forgetting but ill update as i go.
    So im going to be spraying this motor with 150 shot and im at 6200 feet. The truck is a 5 speed and it has 3.92 rear end gears. Im saying this because who ever can guess closest to horsepower on a chassis dyno with get a 10 gift on pay-pal. LET THE BETTING BEGIN. (this is just a friendly fun thing i though would be cool to do) Illl take bet up until the day i dyno it.)


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    5 NINER's Avatar
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    Are we guessing NA numbers or with the nitrous?

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    On the bottle or both but winner will be who ever is closest to on the spray.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    you should get your compression up for the nitrous. juice loves compression.

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    you should get your compression up for the nitrous. juice loves compression.
    He's running flat tops That will certainly bump up the compression from the factory dish pistons.

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    I want to keep it low compression to keep the tunning window a little wider. Low compression nitrous motors are starting to become more and more popular. Think of it like boost. lower compression can handle more boost (nitrous) JMO


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    you should get your compression up for the nitrous. juice loves compression.
    Higher compression tightens the tuning window, he is using flat tops and HYPERjunk pistons, I would leave the combo as safe as possible.
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  8. #8

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    What's the LSA on your cam and keeping the 46RE?
    2000 CC
    606whp 560tq 11.39@117


    Hi-Potek, PIE, Z-Code

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonesoldier79 View Post
    What's the LSA on your cam and keeping the 46RE?
    with a small shot I would keep it around 110lsa in my opinion.
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    Its a 5 speed and lsa is 110 so good call slammed


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    5 speed manual fyi


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    well I was saying if he didn't order the pistons yet. Thought it was still in the paper build stage haha.

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    NA 296 RWHP

    This on nitrous.

    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    Niebes the bottom end is done top end is being paper built still. Cam is already ordered everything else on the top end is being paper built. Casias so your saying 490ish


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    I'll say 415. That elevation makes it difficult to guess.

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    Got the heads ordered yesterday from hughes. cam and new lifters are alreeady here. Nxt up 1:7 roller rockers and the intake.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Got the heads ordered yesterday from hughes. cam and new lifters are alreeady here. Nxt up 1:7 roller rockers and the intake.
    your cam is at presently @ .565-.571 lift. Is that with the 1.6 rockers as stated in your first build sheet? If not, you are raising lift dramatically with the 1.7 rockers mentioned in your last post. Hope everything is clearanced and of the right length for that kind of lift if the cam is figured with the 1.6 ratio. With the 1.7's, you're over .600 lift.

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    i meant 1.6 that was my bad. i was super tired when i typed that up.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    So i just looked back at my receipts for everything i bought per Dave at Hughs and here's all the info.
    CAM: 110 lobe separation
    Lobe lift with w/1.6 Ratio .565i and .571e
    Duration 230 234

    Heads are iron eq's with broze guides and all that jazz with hughs 1129 springs

    But heres my issue. ive read that these heads can only handle .510 lift, granite that was with smaller springs (or lighter springs) and with the rockers im getting (1.65 ratio actually) im worried that this will be to much lift for these heads.


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

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    Just trying to piece this together. With those springs i should be good correct???


    "Horse power is how fast you hit the wall, torque is how far you take the wall with you"

  21. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    So i just looked back at my receipts for everything i bought per Dave at Hughs and here's all the info.
    CAM: 110 lobe separation
    Lobe lift with w/1.6 Ratio .565i and .571e
    Duration 230 234

    Heads are iron eq's with broze guides and all that jazz with hughs 1129 springs

    But heres my issue. ive read that these heads can only handle .510 lift, granite that was with smaller springs (or lighter springs) and with the rockers im getting (1.65 ratio actually) im worried that this will be to much lift for these heads.
    I don't think I would simply "slap" this thing together no matter what you might be hearing about "yeah, it just bolts up". Everything I've heard is all over the place with lift and the 5.9. Some say .525 is it, others are running higher with no problem. I think it safe that you do a mock up and check clearances. Pay attention to head gasket thickness as well. Center lining the cam is also important. Too low (like 104)and you could be kissing metal but with the same exact cam set at 108-110, you could be fine.. Never , ever just turn the key on to fire up a just built engine no matter who is telling you "it'll be fine". and I don't care if they succeeded with other engines. It wasn't YOUR engine they tried it with. You forget to cut the guides and it could be "catastrophic failure" time.

    Now here is something else to be aware of: Cam manufacturers are trying to produce the "every rpm range" cam. Comp, Hughes, Lunati, etc., all have their "quick ramp" design that "excite" the valve train to produce better low end characteristics with steeper profiles while lengthening duration. These cams with their lobes being more "pointy" so to speak, you can "rub off" a lobe right quick with improper installation. Be aware of proper spring pressure and break in oils.
    Last edited by arro222; 11-23-2016 at 01:18 AM.

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by Slowkoda View Post
    Just trying to piece this together. With those springs i should be good correct???

    Not necessarily. Springs are just part of the equation. Be sure to check installed height and pressure of what's on the cam card. You'll need to cut guides as well.

  23. #23





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    he is running a hydraulic roller, no need to worry about wiping out cam lobes.

    Also like ARRO just said, assume NOTHING!!! if you don't have the proper tools yourself have a machine shop verify those springs will work at that lift on those heads. the stock heads are limited to .515" with stock valve springs and retainers. There are spring and retainer kits out there that allow them to go higher lift. BUT!!!!!! always check piston to valve clearance before running the engine, if you never done this look it up on youtube.
    Also lets say the PTV is close, you can advance the installed center line to free up intake valve clearance or retard the center line to free up exhaust valve clearance.
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    Don't be like....How did this happen?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    11.27 @ 118.23
    TB Spacer and CAI

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    ^^^ That was my old 360, still ran great when I pulled it apart.
    11.27 @ 118.23
    TB Spacer and CAI

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