So essentially a high revving boosted 408 is near impossible?
So essentially a high revving boosted 408 is near impossible?
Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete
Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!
Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete
Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!
Its pretty much what I started off saying - these guys just all confirmed it. You would need something other than a magnum head, most likely an R3 block, shaft mounted rockers, solid roller lifters and a SLOUGH of other parts. Pass on doing it to a dakota - go get a nice TA challenger, add boost, tune and done
Absolutely no hydraulic lifters available for a stock magnum block I would trust to 7500. Personally nothing I would feel real comfortable with regularly spinning over 6500 without going to solid lifters
408, HiPoTek, FRP Tuning, Martin Saine 46re12.33 @ 1102018 Renegade Raceway Summit Series Sportsman Champion
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I short shifted mine before the 6600 shift light went off and damn near matched my best et.
Why the infatuation with spinning it to the moon?
11.27 @ 118.232017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion
But the Tin Can works...
Does spinning a motor to 7500 just because you want to work?
11.27 @ 118.232017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion
But there's Waaaaaaay more than lifters to worry about if you plan on spinning a Magnum to 7500, everything else will give up before the lifters do.
11.27 @ 118.232017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion
wait...did I see you say aluminum rods?!
do not run aluminum rods unless it's a motor you tear down and rebuild all the time. Stick with steel. Look at cyclic loading and how it fatigues the metal. The more cycles you stress the metal, the weaker it becomes. This stress can be within it's yield strength, where there is no permanent deformation.
the only metal that is thought of as not having this problem is steel. The cyclic loading and failure point of steel essentially flat lines to where it never gets weaker, wheras all other metals continue to get weaker and weaker with cyclic loading.
--Tom
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408, HiPoTek, FRP Tuning, Martin Saine 46re12.33 @ 1102018 Renegade Raceway Summit Series Sportsman Champion
^^^ what he said, built my 408 in 2010, and I race the shit out of it.
11.27 @ 118.232017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion
Mine was broke all the time, but it can turn 8K, makes sense......
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Yes. Once the valve springs start to get tired - they don't work all that well.
I now have a better feel for how long they last before they start to complain.
Sorry guys, no real "build" thread anywhere.
The closest thread would be here:
http://www.dakotart.com/forum/showth...014-TOTQ-Duner
It remains a work in progress and subject to change without notice. LOL
2.02 EQ heads CBE (home ported)
Comp cams 236° duration, .546"/.546", 114° lsa
18 psi of intercooled boost on good gas (blue line) and race tune
14 psi of intercooled boost on 91 octane (red line) and street tune
Osee - I hope you have better luck with aluminum rods on the street than I did back in my "early" hot-rodding days. I tried running a set of "used" sprint car rods that somebody gave me. They obviously knew they were used up, but the dumb kid >(me)< went: "ooooh, shiny!" and ground on a block for a week and hacked an oil pan to pieces modifying it to work. Yeah, it lasted a short time on the street. Then it spread oily bits and shrapnel all over the place when one of them gave up. LOL
My attempts at running mechanical injection on the street met with equal results... but hey, how many kids back then had stacks? Hahaha
Duner
4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's
1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH
I'm super impressed with how you can make that power with the EQ's any idea what your's flow?
I'm fully aware of the probability of the rods snapping, I got my stroker piston's for $500CAD and the rods for $400 CAD which were "run for 1000 km on the street" before the guys friends convinced him to go to steel rods. I'll go with a forged scat crank and see how long it lives.
How many PSI were you able to get out of your Vortech before the whole belt slip issue?
Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete
Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!
I worked on those EQ heads until I couldn't stand grinding on them anymore, to end up with right at 290 cfm @ .600 lift on the flowbench. But of course I don't actually lift the valves that high with my setup. LOL 18psi of boost is what does all the heavy lifting. I'm pushing it all through a 52mm 2-barrel throttle body and 2bbl M1 intake. The intake limits the cfm - so the head work might have been for nothing in the end - until I swap to a 4bbl and find out.
I was spinning my Vortech way faster than they said to - and got it to 18 psi through the traps when the belt was new - and before it snapped. A weekend like Truckin' Nats would cost me 4 or 5 belts if I wanted to try and make that much boost. Luckily that setup was intercooled also, because I know it was way out of the efficiency part of the map. It was just too small of a blower for what I was trying to do, but pushed me into a turbo setup and man what a difference.
Duner
4.7 Turbocharged CC in white - 12's
5.9 Turbocharged RC in black - 10's
1999 Dodge Dakota R/T RC Turbo: 10.51 @ 130.13 MPH
I haven't done any personal testing, nor do I have any personal experience with aluminum rods, but material engineers still firmly believe in metal fatigue from cyclic loading.
See section on fatigue.
http://www.learneasy.info/MDME/MEMmo...roperties.html
--Tom
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