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Thread: Bigger Sails for the Pirate Ship

  1. #1

    Default Pirate Ship 360 build - almost finished

    I guess I'm getting far enough into this build to start posting some pics. Looks like my plans are almost set right now.
    5.9 ltr magnum bored .030 over 365ci
    polished stock crank
    King Bearings--main, rod
    Dura-Bond cam bearings
    Icon flattop pistons.030
    Scat I-beams
    Comp Cam 210/220 @50 .544 lift (1.7 ratio) 112 lsa
    Comp double roller
    Edelbrock RPM performer heads Cometic gaskets .060 compressed
    Harland Sharp 1.7 adjustable RRs
    Springs--edelbrock
    MP lifters
    Comp Cam Hi-Tech pushrods chromoloy 7.050 .105 walls
    Oil Pump--Melling - standard
    ARP bolts - head, main.flex-plate, Intake, valve covers, headers- 12pt. polished SS
    M1 2bbl intake
    F&B 52mm TB
    24lb Ford injectors
    Air Cleaner--TBD, possibly K&N Extreme
    PPH mid-length headers true dual 2 1/2 x-piped to Hooker Aero-Chambers over the rails
    Remflex gaskets - headers and collectors
    Mopar Magnum VCs
    underdrive pulleys
    Distributor-- most likely stock mopar
    MSD 8.5 wires

    Where to start? Tear down and ready to head to the machine shop for block work.
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    Last edited by DreadPirateBanjo; 11-06-2016 at 10:31 PM.

  2. #2

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    Back from the Machine shop,
    Plate bored and honed .030 over. Decked true. Cleaned, ARP main bolts, new Dura-Bond cam bearings, brass plugs. main bore checked and ok'ed.
    Check out my monster engine lift.
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    Last edited by DreadPirateBanjo; 01-24-2018 at 02:26 AM.

  3. #3


    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Git-R-Done DPB BTW, Want a brand new Melling high volume pump? I've decided to go standard on my 408 build. Exit port is slightly massaged. Fits the rear cap just fine with an ARP bolt without washer. LMK.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  4. #4

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    Need an opinion on my valve covers. My son thinks I should use the black ones but My original plans are to paint the block RED and go with red vc's. I spray the red ones today and after the paint set-up good I took a blade and peeled the details off. After the paint fully cures and hardens I'll finish sanding and polish the lettering and fins.

    These are painted red, they just look orange in the pics.
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    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Jus me, I'm partial to black.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  6. #6
    Mark's Avatar
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    Make sure to really clean that block before assy.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  7. #7


    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    Make sure to really clean that block before assy.
    This ^^^ I bought a brush kit just for that.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  8. #8
    niebs's Avatar
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    looking good!

  9. #9
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    Bad ass! Oh and red would look sweet , the wrinkle black attracts a lot of dirt!

  10. #10

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    Red would match the engine if you are going to paint that red. But I would say black with silver highlights as it is the closest to matching the inverted color scheme of your truck, which would be pretty cool to do.
    2003 Black CC R/T, 1 of (less than) 376

  11. #11

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    The red turned out really good. The black ones would look good on my truck lol. Let me know how your exhaust turns out. That's next on my list. Good luck with your build

  12. #12

    Default

    Good deal man. You should see well over 300whp after its done being tuned, but I think that 2bbl M1 is going to hold you back just a little. Did you have the heads ported?
    2000 CC
    11.37@122


  13. #13

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    Update - All the parts have arrived and are in the shop and I should be able to pick up the short block late next week. My next step is to start on the heads. Need to determine what springs are on the heads to see if new springs are needed for .544 lift. Since I did go with a set of HS 1.7 rockers guess I will need to check the length of my pushrods. Basically will have the heads completely gone thru and the clearances checked and set and a 3 angle valve job. Having trouble getting the correct grommets for the cast MOPAR vc's. Been on back order for 6 weeks and still no definite ship date.
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  14. #14
    blackknight's Avatar
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    The grommets on my vc are super soft , I've used black RTV and the baffles inside and they are still kicking oil out ! Sucks !

  15. #15
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    I'm curious on why you went with 1:7 rockers.
    Did you by the cam new or used, also are the heads new or used?
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

  16. #16

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    Bought the cam from another club member unused. Also bought the Eddy heads from a different member used. Going with 1.7 should bump me up from a .512 to a .544 lift. The heads came with 1.7 rr's but I decided to go with HS's since I didn't have any info on the ones that came with the heads. Those RR's are for sell for $100 if anybody is interested.

  17. #17

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    Went by the shop to check on the progress. And once again left the shop in disappointment. As soon as I walked in I noticed my stuff still wrapped in plastic and still sitting right where I left it....over 2 MONTHS ago. Each week he has promised " I have this done by the end of the this week and the the other stuff done early the following week....." Each time I show up to see how things are going and to square up my bill on any work completed I'm still in the same place.
    Then today I left my heads and rr's with him

    I went back and checked the date when I first tore down the engine, 4/29/16, so basically all I've got done from this shop in nearly 3 months is a block cleaned, bored and cam bearing installed.....DAMN
    Last edited by DreadPirateBanjo; 07-23-2016 at 09:16 PM.

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    I've been following this build and I'm sorry to hear what you are going through. Time to just throw in the towel collect your parts and find another builder. If you're disappointed now with all the excuses, I hate to think what might happen in the future if he finally gets your truck built. Take your loses now, because if you think you have problems now, just wait until it's all paid for and not working right, you think you've heard every excuse in the book now, just wait. I'd find another trustworthy builder now. No matter which route you take, good luck with your build!
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

  19. #19


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    Quote Originally Posted by lilwhitetruck View Post
    I've been following this build and I'm sorry to hear what you are going through. Time to just throw in the towel collect your parts and find another builder. If you're disappointed now with all the excuses, I hate to think what might happen in the future if he finally gets your truck built. Take your loses now, because if you think you have problems now, just wait until it's all paid for and not working right, you think you've heard every excuse in the book now, just wait. I'd find another trustworthy builder now. No matter which route you take, good luck with your build!
    I agree with this sentiment. This guy is a trainwreck waiting to happen.


    Josh - 98 BLK RC - Mad Milkshake Maker
    Previous
    99 BLK RC - Mad Trash Hauler - sold
    99 DA RC - mad dak - Danno Stole it
    01 SLVR RC - mad sexy - retired - then died
    99 IB RC - mad RT - gone to heaven..



    Former Certified member of the 11 Second NA RT Club

  20. #20
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    Get your shit out of there. Guy sound like a hack. Look for a real builder.

  21. #21
    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    I would be there before the end of the day picking up all parts and squaring up with anything that needs be and moving on.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

  22. #22

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    Now that I've had a couple days to calm down. This shop has been operating since 1975 and built many race engines for a lot of local dirt track and small track and drag racers during this time. Most engine builders in this area sent a lot of their machine work to Johnny because they know he has the know how and equipment to get the job done. And I guess that is where my problem comes in. He seems to take in a lot of work and kinda stays backed up. I guess I need to be a little more patient and wait my turn. I still have full confidence in his work and quality.

    Yeah this is probably the biggest bunch of BULLSHIT I've ever said
    Last edited by DreadPirateBanjo; 01-24-2018 at 02:30 AM.

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    Point taken, we only comment on what we see, you see the bigger picture. Good luck with your build, and I don't mean that in a sarcastic way, things can come across the wrong way sometimes in texts, posts or e-mail.
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

  24. #24


    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with a local guy that spec'ed my 408. Everyone in town said he's the "go to guy" for Mopars. I've seen and heard some of his builds. However, it took me nearly 5 months just to get the block prepped. With that in mind, I decided to bolt it together myself.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark(a)RT View Post
    Red would match the engine if you are going to paint that red. But I would say black with silver highlights as it is the closest to matching the inverted color scheme of your truck, which would be pretty cool to do.
    This! If you're going to go with a red block, go with the black covers.
    '03 Stampede Graphite Metallic Dakota R/T CC

    FRP tune, M1 2bbl, HiPoTek 52mm TB, K&N 14" Filter, Headers, Flowmaster duals

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