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Thread: Corey's Mild Engine Build

  1. #51

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    You'll probably get a few horsepower out of it due to the oil not weighing down the crank. I'd say go for it. It's relatively cheap compared to everything else you are doing.

  2. #52

    Corey's Avatar
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    Hi Ricky. I still love this truck, and I thank you for selling it to me almost 7 years ago. Not one complaint about what was done, or how I received it. Thanks for the advice.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  3. #53
    G-Man's Avatar
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    I have one on mine, i had 2 so.. i think it must help, mine runs well.
    G-Man

  4. #54

    Corey's Avatar
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    Ordered mine from Summit with a $20.00 off e-mail coupon so it was $79.00 shipped.
    Last edited by Corey; 03-28-2017 at 12:04 PM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  5. #55

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Hi Ricky. I still love this truck, and I thank you for selling it to me almost 7 years ago. Not one complaint about what was done, or how I received it. Thanks for the advice.
    I'm thankful for that, Corey! I really miss it. If my wife hadn't been pushing me to sell it I would still have it and it would have a 5 or 6 speed in it now.

  6. #56


    99dart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Ordered mine from Summit with a $20.00 of e-mail coupon so it was $79.00 shipped.
    That's the way to do your shopping! $40+ less than Hughes! Right on!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  7. #57




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    windage trays don't seem to gain anything on small block Mopars, lots of dyno testing has been done with and without one on Mopars and never see a gain from them.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Visited the machine shop and they are working on my heads. They informed me it seems like some of the valves might have been just barely touching the top of the pistons. No damage to the valves where they would need to be replaced, or that they were bent. Stock engine, stock cam, 1.7 HS Rockers, and Edelbrock Performer Heads with whatever valves cam with them. Has anyone seen this or know of this? This weekend, I'll look into cleaning some of the piston tops while the motor is still in the truck, and look for this. The shop has my new cam specs and knows I am still going to run the HS 1.7 as well.

    Oh and by the way, the machine shop that is doing "my business" is Al Hubbard Machine in Hayward, CA. Related to Vic Hubbard Auto Parts. This was the last of the old school V-8 Speed Shops in the bay area that closed September 2015.

    Had to modify the thread title, due to the lack of time it is taking on my part, do get it done.
    Corey- So all the Vic Hubbard Speed Shops are closed down? I used to visit the one in Fremont off of Mowry, I know they closed down a long time ago, then I went to the one in Hayward just off of 880, then I moved to Tracy now all I have is Monument and Napa. Good luck with your build.
    White 98D SLT+ 5.9, 2.02 R/T Heads, 1:7 RR, IP CAI, MP PCM, PPH Headers, M1, MP Deep Trannie Pan, Detroit in back. T/S Lift, Lookin for more stuff to do LOL!

  9. #59

    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slammedR/T View Post
    windage trays don't seem to gain anything on small block Mopars, lots of dyno testing has been done with and without one on Mopars and never see a gain from them.
    Yeah I bet you are right, but it makes me feel good to have on installed. Should be called a "splash shield" as the old days of windage/baffle trays, they would have one way doors/flaps that would limit oil sloshing on corners, unless I am thinking of something else like this:
    http://www.rx7club.com/attachments/f...sassembly1.jpg


    Corey- So all the Vic Hubbard Speed Shops are closed down? I used to visit the one in Fremont off of Mowry, I know they closed down a long time ago, then I went to the one in Hayward just off of 880, then I moved to Tracy now all I have is Monument and Napa. Good luck with your build.
    Yes closed, and a loss to the Bay Area. I told the machine shop they better not close in my lifetime, or until my motor is complete. They laughed and said behind a stack of heads and blocks on the counter, that they have no plans to go anywhere.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  10. #60

    Corey's Avatar
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    Heads have been retrieved from the machine shop. I also have an estimate on rebuilding the bottom end and setting up these heads installed. $2,000.00. Thanksgiving Weekend I'll have the engine removed. Remember, these are match-ported to the stock kegger and PPH Headers.

    Freshened up with new springs, Edlebrock Performer







    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  11. #61

    Corey's Avatar
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    I have time off for the Thanksgiving Weekend, and have borrowed my friends cherry picker, so after buying an engine stand, the engine will come out. Draining the engine oil this weekend, and the coolant is already gone when I removed the heads. I know the hood will need to be removed, and so will the grill and radiator. A friend of mine has a 1-800-Radiator Franchise, so I have my connection for these parts, and will more than likely replace the condenser while I am there. The evap was replaced when I did the heater core.

    Any other suggestions? Told you this would be a long rebuild process due to work and all.
    Last edited by Corey; 11-21-2016 at 11:47 AM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  12. #62


    99dart's Avatar
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    Having a hand full off bungie cords makes tying cables & wiring harnesses outta the way easy. Do the same on a/c pump (if you still have one). I like bolting a box end wrench to the bell housing to keep the TQ converter in place too.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  13. #63

    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Having a hand full off bungie cords makes tying cables & wiring harnesses outta the way easy. Do the same on a/c pump (if you still have one). I like bolting a box end wrench to the bell housing to keep the TQ converter in place too.
    I have almost as many bungee cords, as I do zip-ties. No, not really, but I will use them. I still have the A/C, and plan to reinstall it. I have removed the compressor already, knowing the system will need to be purged, and recharged, with all new o-rings. Because the system has been left open, the receiver dryer will also be replaced. Box end wrench to the bell housing?? Could you elaborate on this?

    Thanks for the advice.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  14. #64


    99dart's Avatar
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    A box end has a nice angle built in, run a bolt through it, attach to a bell housing bolt hole. Have the wrench laying across the TQ converter. The wrench will hold the converter in place while it sits waiting for that new mill.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  15. #65

    Corey's Avatar
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    I hear slow and steady wins the race, but this is ridiculous! Money is coming in a few weeks, then I can extract the engine, and drop it off to the machine shop. Those rebuilt cylinder heads above, are getting lonely. The Kegger upgraded plate upgrade is there, and Rickysnickers did the internal divider removal modification as well.

    2 more notes have been left on my truck since the last one, asking if I want to sell it. No way! I still have to install the Kenne Brown Braces I have had for a few years, and install the subs and amp for the rear enclosure, and . . .
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  16. #66


    99dart's Avatar
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    Let's get after it then!!
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  17. #67

    Corey's Avatar
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    Finally got the check in the mail I have been waiting for, so I ordered the following:

    Eagle I-Beam Rods
    http://stores.hi-potek.com/eagle-chr...ping-included/

    4.030 Wiseco Pistons
    http://stores.hi-potek.com/wiseco-pr...ping-included/

    Got them both direct from HiPoTek. Just have to clear space in the garage to put the engine.

    Sat in the truck for the first time in over a year last weekend, and really miss it!
    Last edited by Corey; 03-28-2017 at 12:10 PM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  18. #68


    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Finally got the check in the mail I have been waiting for, so I ordered the Eagle I-Beam Rods and 4.030 Wiseco Pistons, both direct from Hipotek. Just have to clear space in the garage to put the engine.
    Git-R-Done
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  19. #69




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Wiseco pistons are the shizz nettle bang bang!!!!!!!
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  20. #70
    Osee's Avatar
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    are the heads painted or sand blasted? looks good!


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  21. #71

    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    are the heads painted or sand blasted? looks good!
    The heads have not been painted, and will leave them as the came, Edelbrock Bare. Not a big fan of engine bling, so that is why the block will remain black.

    What are your thoughts on necessary new fasteners, and ones that can be reused? The "loose nut behind the wheel" will remain.

    Because my plan is to have the machine shop assemble everything I could let them buy/provide the new bolts. Bringing a lot to them with this engine.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  22. #72

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    The heads have not been painted, and will leave them as the came, Edelbrock Bare. Not a big fan of engine bling, so that is why the block will remain black.

    What are your thoughts on necessary new fasteners, and ones that can be reused? The "loose nut behind the wheel" will remain.

    Because my plan is to have the machine shop assemble everything I could let them buy/provide the new bolts. Bringing a lot to them with this engine.
    The critical part is heads to block. If you do not know for sure if Mopar torques their heads to yield, I'd definitely get new head bolts at least.
    Recently, I just bought a beater Dakota with a 318. The previous owner put a mild cam, (card read .456 lift.206 @ .50 ground to .112 and lined to 110) headers and did some head work only at the valves and did a straighten skim of the heads. I believe he used the same head bolts. I can contact him to be sure. He did this about 5 years ago and nothing has leaked so far. As is, this old 95 Dakota feels like it could beat my R/T in a quarter.

  23. #73

    Corey's Avatar
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    Well, this has probably been the longest thread in history about an engine build, in an area that never see's snow in winter. The engine is out, and it's not all that bad looking for 126,000 miles. Next is to have my neighbor help me get it to the machine shop, where it will be rebuilt. Enjoy the pictures:

    You leave a truck in the same place for a year and 3 months, there is bound to be something odd about it. No rodent infestation, wasp nests, or birds nesting, but what I saw when I jacked the front end up(the only time the front end will ever leave the ground), it was odd enough to add to the pictures. I'm not into fishing, but some local bird scored a big feast:




    Hood off and sitting on the front lawn like a true red-neck, and ready to "yank" it out(hood is back on now):





    ...and it is out and on an engine stand:




    Engine bay area cleaning up will be done before it goes back in. Oh, and yes, the trans is supported in this picture via jack stand, and now supported via straps. Viewed is the stock converter that came with the Jasper replacement Trans(long story and I needed the trans replaced at the time, and couldn't wait for a Martin Saine, as that would have been my first choice). 2800 stall, and rebuilt valve body with Trans-go Shift Kit, and my Mopar Performance Deeper Trans Pan, is just waiting to go back in.




    Sometimes it is good to have a "go to" person to call or text for questions, and Rudy, our Secretary, has been a great help replying to all of my questions.

    Brake booster, and master have not been replaced, and are working just fine.

    I only see a little external seeping oil at the sealing of the distributor area, but other than that, nothing leaking from the rear main seal, or anywhere else. it will have all new freeze plugs and the usual suspects in a rebuild. Would love the have the Mike Leach Headers and Y Pipe sent out for cleaning and paint/coating, but nothing too shiny, as I am not into the "bling". I'll ask the machine shop if there is some place local that can do it.

    I really miss this truck!
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  24. #74

    Corey's Avatar
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    ...to add to this, I was seriously thinking about ditching the clutch fan, and just running an electric fan. I know the common upgrade is the Grand Cherokee Fan, and shroud, but what would I need to make it work? Are there better bolt in electric fans that do not require more modifications, or the removal of the current stock shroud with the coolant and washer squirter reservoirs? I don't plan on racing this truck, and where I drive/live never sees snow, or 100 degree temps, but I do see traffic. Plan on leaving the A/C in working order, for when I drive to areas that require me turning it on. Once the A/C is on, I do know the fan is forced on as well.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  25. #75




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    ...to add to this, I was seriously thinking about ditching the clutch fan, and just running an electric fan. I know the common upgrade is the Grand Cherokee Fan, and shroud, but what would I need to make it work? Are there better bolt in electric fans that do not require more modifications, or the removal of the current stock shroud with the coolant and washer squirter reservoirs? I don't plan on racing this truck, and where I drive/live never sees snow, or 100 degree temps, but I do see traffic. Plan on leaving the A/C in working order, for when I drive to areas that require me turning it on. Once the A/C is on, I do know the fan is forced on as well.
    Order a 2006 chevy HHR fan from rockauto, get the acdelco brand, it is only $80, it fits the radiator perfect and you only need some flat stock and drill two hole in them to mount in the factory electric fan mounts, your stock fan shroud/water bottle crap will still fit in place.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

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