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Thread: Corey's Mild Engine Build

  1. #26
    niebs's Avatar
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    one thing to look into when putting the block together is going to be the piston quench. Ask the machine shop to deck the block down to zero. For him to do this tho he will need to know the stroke, rod length and piston ch.

  2. #27

    Corey's Avatar
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    If you're in Cali you can talk to Brian at Indio Motor Machine IMMengines.com. He did my EQs for me. Good guy and regularly does motor builds for Car Craft.
    I am in Northern California(Bay Area), so sending the heads to Indio would have freight charges. Thanks for the reference though.

    Quote Originally Posted by niebs View Post
    one thing to look into when putting the block together is going to be the piston quench. Ask the machine shop to deck the block down to zero. For him to do this tho he will need to know the stroke, rod length and piston ch.
    Good to know, and noted. This machine shop will reassemble the engine, setting it all up, including the heads, cam timing, and intake manifold for me. I can install the new water pump, and other accessories.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  3. #28

    Corey's Avatar
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    Wow, how time passes while working with insurance/settlement to start this rebuild. The engine is still in the truck, but I give it a wash every-other week, and talk to it, sitting inside, making "vroom-vroom" sounds. We (uh, I mean I do) talk about the new cam that was just ordered from HiPoTek. Richard and I have had a bunch of e-mails back and forth about my intentions with the truck, and what I have for bolt-ons with this build, so I let him decide. I am not fluent in "bump sticks". Based on my mods, I (we) have ordered the following:
    HiPoTek HPT206XR Xtreme Hydraulic Roller Camshaft Dodge 5.2/5.9 (318/360) Magnum
    (LSA Choice: 112, Lift Choices: .512/.520)

    I will order the lifters from HiPoTek when the cam is complete, and the push rods will be ordered when the time comes.

    Thanks to Rudy (SynRG), I have a new 2800 converter sitting in the box waiting to replace the stock (1800???) that came with the Jasper Trans I installed 2 years ago. Modified valve body is also waiting to go in.

    Other than the above, I have ordered new stock motor mounts, water pump, and timing cover. I will be replacing some of the sensors, because I don't want to take a chance one will fail on the install.

    Thoughts in the future would be to replace the 50mm TB with a 52mm, then have it tuned, but that's about it. This is not a drag racer, but a fun truck with a big heart, destine to leave pavement stripes whenever desired. Semi-daily commuter and race bike transporter. So the waiting really is the hardest part, but some things are worth the wait.

    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  4. #29


    99dart's Avatar
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    So, where will you be pulling the engine? Your place or family/friend's place with a garage?
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103
    10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
    R/T ported heads
    Detroit locker 4:56 gears
    Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  5. #30

    Corey's Avatar
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    It will be at my place/garage, and I will doing the pulling and reinstalling. The builder is about 5 miles away, and will be doing the disassembly, and the "long block" reassembly before I pick it up. Sadly, I have to rent a truck to get it there and back, because our other vehicle is a Mazda MX5.

    So our engines were painted black originally, right? Going to keep it the original color, no orange or blue.

    Any reason to go with a higher volume oil pump, or just stay with standard replacement? These are $50.00 to $100.00 at Rock Auto? I will be having them replace the distributor drive gear/oil pump shaft, and pick up screen as well.

    Radiator, hoses, steering rack pump and hoses, are all about 2 years old.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  6. #31


    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Any reason to go with a higher volume oil pump, or just stay with standard replacement?
    High volume is usually for motors with looser clearances. I was going HV, but went standard. My clearances are not considered loose. If you decide to go HV, I have a brand new, never used Melling M72HV (high volume) pump for sale. $55.00 shipped to your door. Keep us posted on the build
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

  7. #32
    G-Man's Avatar
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    Fwiw, mopar performance has a HD oil pump shaft for not much more than a stock one.
    G-Man

  8. #33

    Corey's Avatar
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    Still waiting for settlement $$ to settle, and the more my R/T sits in the driveway, the more people come by and ask if I want to sell it. 2 asks, and a note left on it when I got home this evening. NOT FOE SALE sign should be on it. Next week I am going to remove the heads and send them in to get this ball rolling...

    Last edited by Corey; 08-15-2016 at 12:00 PM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  9. #34
    Osee's Avatar
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    And around here no one looks twice at the R/T unless I drive around with no hood some people even ask if its a v6


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  10. #35

    Corey's Avatar
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    Finally got to use some of my vacation to remove the Eddy Heads from the truck. I know some of you could have rebuilt your engine and trans about 3 times (including waiting for the machine shop work) , since I started this thread. With work, and home stuff, there have other priorities in line. So, here is what I see, when looking for any sign of anything odd. From Sesame Street, "Which one of these things is not like the other?"

    Right Side Cylinder Bank



    #8 Cylinder



    Left Cylinder Bank




    In the first two pictures above, the right rear cylinder (#8) was cleaned up al little to look for cylinder wall cross-hatching, because I just wanted to know. The other bank does not have the "Captain Obvious" head gasket ring distortion. Anyone care to elaborate on what might have caused this?



    The following is the right side then left side head combustion. I don't know the mileage when these heads were installed by the PO, but at least 60,000 was put on by me after owning this truck.



    Right Side






    Left Side

    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  11. #36




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Only thing I see is a fat (rich) tune has been on this engine for a long time, Ryan can fix that though. The heads will clean up no problem, standard volume oil pump will be fine unless running an engine oil cooler.
    Stock rods and stock crank will be fine but have them checked and prolly turn the crank to true the journals back up.
    I would only bore the engine .010" or .020" so that way you still have room for another over bore in the future if you plan to die with this truck.
    Also have the block zero decked and have them finish it for the fine 20RA if you ever decide to go boost you can put cometics on there with no issues.
    Have the heads decked for the same finish also, plan on replacing valve springs also, I don't care if they all have good pressures, they need replace just from age.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  12. #37

    Corey's Avatar
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    Thank you for the reply and added information. Dropped the heads off and I will instruct them to replace the springs. No tune with the current engine just a MP Computer. Cam will wake it up and will go with a tune as well.




    OK to reuse the HS 1.7 Rockers? Have new roller hydraulic lifters and will get new push rods.

    Thanks again! I do plan on keeping this truck for as long as I can. Still have an amp and 10" speakers to go in the enclosure, and frame brace.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  13. #38




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Thank you for the reply and added information. Dropped the heads off and I will instruct them to replace the springs. No tune with the current engine just a MP Computer. Cam will wake it up and will go with a tune as well.




    OK to reuse the HS 1.7 Rockers? Have new roller hydraulic lifters and will get new push rods.

    Thanks again! I do plan on keeping this truck for as long as I can. Still have an amp and 10" speakers to go in the enclosure, and frame brace.
    Just look them over for any obvious issues, but yes you should be fine to reuse the rockers especially the harland sharp brand.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  14. #39

    Corey's Avatar
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    Just ordered a new set of springs, thank you very much!
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Just ordered a new set of springs, thank you very much!
    What springs did you go with?

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
    #1222

    r/DodgeDakota

  16. #41
    G-Man's Avatar
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    I like the specs on that cam, short duration but good lift with the 1.7 rockers, get that deck height to zero and that thing will be a torque monster, please let us know how that cam works, im curious how much lope it will have.
    G-Man

  17. #42
    sean'03's Avatar
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    This is currently the same cam I have in my 03 110 lobe separate tho

  18. #43

    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SynRG View Post
    What springs did you go with?
    I ordered the Edelbrock 5845 Springs, as they are what comes in the Performer Heads to begin with.

    Many e-mails back and forth, with Richard at HiPoTek, and we came up with this cam. Knowing I'm not going with an air-gap or M1, and no forced power additions, and I am not in the know about "bump-sticks", I leaned on him for a suggestion. Thanks! Something is better than the stock cam, right?

    I will update this rebuild as it s-l-o-w-l-y progresses, and will follow up with a pre-tune dyno, and after tune dyno.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  19. #44

    Corey's Avatar
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    Visited the machine shop and they are working on my heads. They informed me it seems like some of the valves might have been just barely touching the top of the pistons. No damage to the valves where they would need to be replaced, or that they were bent. Stock engine, stock cam, 1.7 HS Rockers, and Edelbrock Performer Heads with whatever valves cam with them. Has anyone seen this or know of this? This weekend, I'll look into cleaning some of the piston tops while the motor is still in the truck, and look for this. The shop has my new cam specs and knows I am still going to run the HS 1.7 as well.

    Oh and by the way, the machine shop that is doing "my business" is Al Hubbard Machine in Hayward, CA. Related to Vic Hubbard Auto Parts. This was the last of the old school V-8 Speed Shops in the bay area that closed September 2015.

    Had to modify the thread title, due to the lack of time it is taking on my part, do get it done.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  20. #45
    Osee's Avatar
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    hitting pistons @0.521 lift on 1.7's?

    Assuming the cam specs on the box are for 1.6 rr's

    521/1.6=325.625

    325.625x1.7=553.5625

    on a stock bottom end with eddies you're touching valves @ .554 lift? I'm I totally boned wanting to run .565 lift with stock heads and stock bottom end? Or is it the actual position of the valve head in eddies is closer to deck height than stock heads?


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

  21. #46

    Corey's Avatar
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    Short block is all stock and original. I do not know what the specs on the stock cam are. These heads were installed before I became the owner. I am not building this engine myself, but the builder is the same one freshening the heads, and will know how to overcome this when the time comes. With the new cam listed above, I would think there is ample piston to valve clearance with the rockers.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  22. #47




    slammedR/T's Avatar
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    both intake and exhaust valves? also how is it they hit the pistons and didn't bend the valve? You can change installed centerline of the cam to gain piston to valve clearance. I forget advance or retard changes which direction off the top of my head. If bot intake and exhaust were hitting then ICL won't help.
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

  23. #48

    98Dak408's Avatar
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    both intake and exhaust valves? also how is it they hit the pistons and didn't bend the valve? You can change installed centerline of the cam to gain piston to valve clearance. I forget advance or retard changes which direction off the top of my head. If bot intake and exhaust were hitting then ICL won't help.
    Doesn’t seem to make sense with the stock cam. If it was just a head swap the cam timing probably wouldn’t have been changed. But who knows what may have been done. Still doesn’t make sense though.

    Advance moves intake valve closer to piston and exhaust valve further from piston.

    The HPT206XR is a smaller cam and piston-to-valve clearance shouldn’t be a problem with 1.6 rockers but you should always check to be sure. I would certainly check if you are using 1.7 rockers but I’ve heard of people running bigger cams with the stock bottom end with plenty of clearance. But again, I would always check to be sure.

    Valve drop on my Eddies (with a 2.02 valve) is around .035. I just tossed a set of stock heads so I don’t know what the valve drop is with those on average. Even though my valve-to-piston clearance checked out with my engine simulator I still manually checked upon installing the new camshaft to be sure.
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 09-22-2016 at 08:27 PM.

  24. #49

    Corey's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply Richard. I trust you and the shop.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

  25. #50

    Corey's Avatar
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    So, as I let my "fingers do the walking" (you younger generation Members, will have to look that one up), which all of us do while we are building something, the "while you are in there", is always on my mind. I know I won't need the block support plate, but what about a windage tray? Simple bolt on for about $120.00??? Can't hurt? Will help? Piece(peace) of mind? Adds weight??? LOL!!!

    http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...e&partid=14153

    Windage.jpg
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!

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