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Thread: Corey's Mild Engine Build

  1. #1


    Corey's Avatar
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    Default Corey's (Slow Paced) Mild Engine Rebuild

    So the time is getting closer to me starting my engine build. Unlike most here that have gone 408, 426, turbo, or supercharger, I am going the more simple route of keeping what I currently have which is almost stock, and going 1st or 2nd overbore, adding a mild cam, and reusing everything else I have, that is about it. The truck is a semi-daily driver, and used for hauling my race bike to the AFM Races.

    I have replaced a lot of components over the 6 years of owning this R/T, and most recently the stock transmission (Transgo valve body just waiting to go it), front end bushings, steering rack and pump, and tie rod ends. It it would be easier to state what I have not replaced, like the rear Hotchkis Suspension, and rebuilding the rear end, but it still is quiet and leaves two stripes. I have a local shop that is known in the area, doing the machine work, so I will be removing it, taking it to them, and I will be reinstalling it.

    No plans to race this truck, unless there is another west coast meet where I can have some fun. I am not worried about gas mileage, or I would have bought a 4 cylinder.

    So I have asked a few members here where to go with a few things, and the cam will be like what Friggin' RT is using.
    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=645&sb=2
    I too have, and will be keeping, the modified kegger, match-ported Edlebrock Performer Heads with HS 1.7 Rockers, and PPH Headers. I have a 50mm TB on the other end, Mopar Performance Computer and a HUGE F&B CIA Intake. Thanks to someone I know, CA Smog is not a problem. I have a feeling I might need a tune after this?

    So that said, I am looking for suggestions. I know I will be replacing the stock motor mounts, so other than stock replacements from Rock Auto, should I go with something else? Do I need anything beefier?

    This will take about 3-4 months to be complete. Hopefully not all that long, because I really miss my truck!
    Last edited by Corey; 09-22-2016 at 11:53 AM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  2. #2

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    Whats your budget? I can give you some tips on a basic build like that. On high performance setups chad and the gang know much better.

    But budget will dictate some of what you do. I have a spreadsheet too with some parts and numbers on it that may help.


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

  3. #3

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    Subscribed.

    I'm eventually going to pull my motor as well, I got leaks to fix. While it's out I'm going to upgrade the cam and have my 1.92 EQ heads ported and machined to fit 2.02 ss valve and upgrade the springs. I'll replace converter with a higher stall too.

    Still undecided on the cam I want to go with.

    Quote Originally Posted by WhiteRT View Post
    Whats your budget? I can give you some tips on a basic build like that. On high performance setups chad and the gang know much better.

    But budget will dictate some of what you do. I have a spreadsheet too with some parts and numbers on it that may help.
    I'm interested

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    #1222

    r/DodgeDakota

  4. #4


    Corey's Avatar
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    Thanks. HSKR, has suggested I go with new Pistons and rods, and stay with the stock crank. Friggin' R/T recommends going with a higher stall converter (2800) than the stock on in there now.

    Plan on still running the A/C and Heater.

    What are your thoughts on parts pricing? If I give the "builder" the pistons, rods, and other parts to the engine, I am sure he can work his magic.

    I don't know what all my options are to choose from for what I am doing, so I don't have a current budget, but that doesn't mean I have an open account either.
    Last edited by Corey; 04-27-2016 at 12:16 AM.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  5. #5


    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SynRG View Post
    Subscribed.

    I'm eventually going to pull my motor as well, I got leaks to fix. While it's out I'm going to upgrade the cam and have my 1.92 EQ heads ported and machined to fit 2.02 ss valve and upgrade the springs. I'll replace converter with a higher stall too.

    Still undecided on the cam I want to go with.


    I'm interested
    Welcome to the party.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  6. #6

    moparmadman's Avatar
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    Are you're 1.7 HS's adjustable?
    2003 Silver RC: 2.02/1.60 EQs by IMM engines, 218XR cam from hipotek, FRP tune, M1 2bbl, spintech headers w true duals, 1.6 adj rockers, 52mm TB, 2800 stall, lots of other shit.
    2000 White CC: DEAD!!! Zeus M1, Hipotek 53mm TB, Spintech Mids, x-pipe, true duals with Hooker Aerochambers; Mopar Performance ECU; CAI; Belltech Lowering kit.
    2002 Black RC: Long gone
    2005 Black Srt-4: AGP Delta 46 turbo. Sold it and it only took the guy 5 days to total it

    2015 HD Dyna Street Bob: V&H Shortshots, FP3, SE Stg 1 Air Cleaner, Progressive lowering shocks.
    2008 HD Nightster: Sadly traded in

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    moparmadman's Avatar
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    Dammit. Your
    2003 Silver RC: 2.02/1.60 EQs by IMM engines, 218XR cam from hipotek, FRP tune, M1 2bbl, spintech headers w true duals, 1.6 adj rockers, 52mm TB, 2800 stall, lots of other shit.
    2000 White CC: DEAD!!! Zeus M1, Hipotek 53mm TB, Spintech Mids, x-pipe, true duals with Hooker Aerochambers; Mopar Performance ECU; CAI; Belltech Lowering kit.
    2002 Black RC: Long gone
    2005 Black Srt-4: AGP Delta 46 turbo. Sold it and it only took the guy 5 days to total it

    2015 HD Dyna Street Bob: V&H Shortshots, FP3, SE Stg 1 Air Cleaner, Progressive lowering shocks.
    2008 HD Nightster: Sadly traded in

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by moparmadman View Post
    Are you're 1.7 HS's adjustable?
    Mine? No. Will have to switch to 1.6 when I do the cam, most likely.

    2003 CC
    360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
    249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
    #1222

    r/DodgeDakota

  9. #9


    Corey's Avatar
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    I am almost positive my 1.7 HS are not adjustable. The plan is to continue to run them. Just a head clean up and go through, to make sure all is well, no bigger valves, and no additional porting. I am sure the cam will wake this engine up.

    No need for higher compression pistons either, as I plan to run pump gas. Only going +1 or +2 on the pistons, because I can.

    Searching for "kit" pricing I came across this as an example:
    http://www.campbellenterprises.com/e....htm#360street

    I would like to hear what others have done for a mild build on their 360.
    What did you budget initially?
    What did you end up spending?
    What would you have done differently, given the chance to do it again?
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  10. #10

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    No need to replace the rods for semi-stock rebuild, they are forged. Look into a set of Hyper KB 020 over pistons ,again no need to spend extra for forged pistons. Have your shop do a 5 angle valve job on the heads and should be good to go. By the way Mopar Action magazine did a build-up 450 hp for $2000 on 360 magnum engine using a stock bottom end 2014

  11. #11



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    Yep, stock rods are fine and you can deck the heads .030 to bump your compression a point with the stock pistons, the stock Eddy combustion chamber is 62cc not the advertised 58
    11.27 @ 118.23
    TB Spacer and CAI

  12. #12

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    Hey Corey. Those rockers are the adjustable type. You should be able to reuse them.

  13. #13

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    Stock rods (shot peened if you wish), Stock crank (lots of shops recommend turning 10/10 when reusing), stock pistons (or a KB127??? if you need/want to replace), new rings, new bearings (durabond being a good alternative to high priced bearings like kings).

    Dont forget the little shit like all new freeze plugs, oil pump (PASS on the high volume BS, just a stock replacement).

    Other than that maybe some powder coating to pretty it up


    "The journey is more fun than the destination"

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    moparmadman's Avatar
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    I recently put the same cam in my truck w 2.02/1.60 EQs that had .010 milled off. I ditched the 1.7 non adjustable HS's for 1.6 adjustable. I'm sure you can use the non adjustable ones but you'll just have to make sure push rod length is dead on.
    2003 Silver RC: 2.02/1.60 EQs by IMM engines, 218XR cam from hipotek, FRP tune, M1 2bbl, spintech headers w true duals, 1.6 adj rockers, 52mm TB, 2800 stall, lots of other shit.
    2000 White CC: DEAD!!! Zeus M1, Hipotek 53mm TB, Spintech Mids, x-pipe, true duals with Hooker Aerochambers; Mopar Performance ECU; CAI; Belltech Lowering kit.
    2002 Black RC: Long gone
    2005 Black Srt-4: AGP Delta 46 turbo. Sold it and it only took the guy 5 days to total it

    2015 HD Dyna Street Bob: V&H Shortshots, FP3, SE Stg 1 Air Cleaner, Progressive lowering shocks.
    2008 HD Nightster: Sadly traded in

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    99dart's Avatar
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    Check out the options of kits and/or separate items here at Mancini racing: http://www.manciniracing.com/engine.html
    Several rebuild kits (I don't like the pistons available tho). Probably get pistons separately.
    Here's a decent looking kit w/Cloyes chain, KB pistons.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/74-79-Chrysl...item4637c72b3d
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103 new 365 C.I (guessatune
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

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    niebs's Avatar
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    I would only open the bores, if the cylinder walls need it. There's not much to gain just by boring it. Bump the compression up and run the cam. It'll wake up.

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    Corey's Avatar
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    I appreciate the feedback and information, this is why I am here and not on other sites asking this same question. I have invested a lot of reading and sharing my experiences with this truck amongst the members here, and your feedback is well appreciated.

    I know like engine oil, and skinning a cat, there are many ways to rebuild an engine, and many part options. Going to the builder with everything I want, and having him do the machine work and labor is the thought, but once the process starts, if he needs anything then I'll let him supply the additional stuff. I don't want to stop anything in the process while he waits for me to get more stuff. This might piss him off.

    Not knowing what to choose in parts, I can only go with suggestions here an what not to do, and which manufacturers not to use based on your experiences.

    My thinking on going 2nd overbore, is because if I have to go 1st overbore to clean it up, then why not go the next size while I am in there? Not much difference in parts price from piston sizes, and I would think anything I need to do to a +.030" Overbore, I would need to do to a +.040" Overbore, right? I can be corrected if I am thinking this out wrong This would be the "while you are in there" thought, and going that extra step.
    http://www.jegs.com/p/KB-Performance...rPage=60&pno=1


    If the Edelbrock Heads are going to be serviced, then shaving a little off is the plan along with a clean up valve job.

    I don't know the advantage or disadvantage of adjustable rockers. Is it so they can fit different applications? Silly question here, but once set, do they need to be checked and readjusted? Guess I could google search it.

    That 2014 360 engine build would be a good read if someone could find the link to it.

    Thanks again for your comments.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

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    niebs's Avatar
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    This is were you get on to that slippery expensive slope. Cause if your already in there then why not do the main stroker kit . My thing the the bore is. You do as little as possible if you plan to keep this motor for a while. Yes its tempting to bore it to the max to stretch what ci is left in the walls. But now what if you have a hick up down the road and gouge a cylinder wall. You already have the walls too thin so now your searching for a new block, rather then getting the one you have re cut... But like you said. More than one way to skin a cat. I'm sure others will chime in.

  19. #19


    Corey's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback Niebs. For sure, no 408 in the plan, as that would lead to another intake manifold and a lot of these dots (...). I do know someone will always have an engine with more power, but that is not my concern. I agree about the going too far overbore suggestion, and my 2nd overbore suggestion is not yet in stone.

    Oh, an no fancy polishing of parts, just cleaning them and painting black if needed. Block will be the original color.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  20. #20

    Osee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by corey View Post
    oh, an no fancy polishing of parts, just cleaning them and painting black if needed. block will be the original color.
    i see a rusty block and i want it to turn black!


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", V-tech, R/T Cam, Performance Chip

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

    Car Build Thread https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...ost-1971625458

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    niebs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    i see a rusty block and i want it to turn black!
    I see what you did there.

  22. #22


    Corey's Avatar
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    Yes, the block will be painted the original color of black before going back in.

    So, on the subject of motor mounts, stock replacements or upgrade to something else?

    Researched the possibility of a short block before going this route, and still would need heads rebuilt. Local machine shop in my area is highly recommended by my neighbors that have been here many years, and have muscle cars and trucks.

    http://tinyurl.com/h5mxho8
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  23. #23


    99dart's Avatar
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    Just replace with stock units if you see a need. I'm still running the originals.
    99 DA CC R/T
    13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
    12.96 @103 new 365 C.I (guessatune
    http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ

  24. #24


    Corey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
    Just replace with stock units if you see a need. I'm still running the originals.
    Thanks, I will inspect them, and they will be replaced if I have any doubts.
    DRTC #1176

    2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
    Dyno'ed 07/05/13 230 Hp / 308 Tq
    14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
    Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/

    1985 Kawasaki GPz550
    2003 SV650S (Race)
    1973 W100 Powerwagon


    Mater: You know, I once knew this girl Doreen. Good-looking girl. Looked just like a Jaguar, only she was a truck! You know, I used to crash into her just so I could speak to her.

  25. #25

    moparmadman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corey View Post
    Yes, the block will be painted the original color of black before going back in.

    So, on the subject of motor mounts, stock replacements or upgrade to something else?

    Researched the possibility of a short block before going this route, and still would need heads rebuilt. Local machine shop in my area is highly recommended by my neighbors that have been here many years, and have muscle cars and trucks.

    http://tinyurl.com/h5mxho8
    If you're in Cali you can talk to Brian at Indio Motor Machine IMMengines.com. He did my EQs for me. Good guy and regularly does motor builds for Car Craft.
    2003 Silver RC: 2.02/1.60 EQs by IMM engines, 218XR cam from hipotek, FRP tune, M1 2bbl, spintech headers w true duals, 1.6 adj rockers, 52mm TB, 2800 stall, lots of other shit.
    2000 White CC: DEAD!!! Zeus M1, Hipotek 53mm TB, Spintech Mids, x-pipe, true duals with Hooker Aerochambers; Mopar Performance ECU; CAI; Belltech Lowering kit.
    2002 Black RC: Long gone
    2005 Black Srt-4: AGP Delta 46 turbo. Sold it and it only took the guy 5 days to total it

    2015 HD Dyna Street Bob: V&H Shortshots, FP3, SE Stg 1 Air Cleaner, Progressive lowering shocks.
    2008 HD Nightster: Sadly traded in

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