1941 Dodge 1/2 ton, 493 twin turbo, EFI, 727, 4 wheel disc brakes, custom triangulated 4 link, DANA 60, Gleason Torsen diff,
2002 Dakota R/T RC, PX8, PPH Headers, K&N FIPK, Hotchkis TVS, 20" R/T chrome rims, BFG G-Force T/A KDW 275/35 ZR20 tires, Kenwood head unit, Kenwood speakers, RF amp, 8" RF Punch Z subs
1998 Dakota RC daily driver 5.9L, AX-15 5 speed, Hooker long tube headers, FRP tune
Looking good, Corey!
99 DA CC R/T
13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
12.96 @103
10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
R/T ported heads
Detroit locker 4:56 gears
Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ
Ordered -6 Billet Fuel Rails for the M1 2BBL and Black Fuel Line Kit. No additional delays in this, just adding some much needed parts.
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
I am on vacation all next week, or what is now called "STAY-cation", so the goal is to have this engine installed before the following weekend. I'll spend a good part of the weekend removing the spider webs in and around the engine bay area, and arachnids that have inhabited my R/T since December 2013. I do wash it once a month, but those buggers just come right back. Oh how I miss this truck! I walk the dogs daily, and say "Good Morning" in passing, like Pee-Wee Herman did to his bicycle. OK maybe not THAT dorky, but it's close.
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
if-you-love-j505q1 (1).jpg
I couldn't imagine having mine off the road that long. I'd go nuts.
Get that engine in there and get back to eating tires.
Project Maverick. I feel the need, the need for speed
COREY!! WHAT HAPPENED? I thought you had it running already. I was going nuts with mine down for right at 1 year. Git'er done, son!
99 DA CC R/T
13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
12.96 @103
10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
R/T ported heads
Detroit locker 4:56 gears
Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ
Life, work, and other things in the way, but I have this week off work and am working on it, and the engine should be in before I go back to work on Monday. Engine is hanging from the cherry picker now.
IMG_7367.jpg
IMG_7363.jpg
IMG_7364.jpg
OK now that I have you here, I have the Factory Service Manuals, and no where in there does it list the torque for the ignition plate to crankshaft bolts.
IMG_7365.jpg
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
It's in there, but they call it something stupid IIRC instead of just a flexplate. I can look in my FSM in the morning (still at work).
Jim
RaceMagnum
I have even looked on Rock Auto for the nNe too.
Flexplate
Flywheel
Looked in loads of sections for the torque on these bolts. Searched the index and these sections:
trans
ignition
engine
flywheel
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
http://www.dakotart.com/HowTo/Comple...pecs318360.pdf or I found this also: http://www.atsdiesel.com/PDF/TORQUE_SPECS_Dodge_01.pdf
Torque Converter Bolt (1)
12.20" (273.0 mm) Torque Converter 35 (47)
Transmission Crossmember Bolt 50 (68)
Flexplate To Crank Bolts (ATS Billet) 115
Flexplate To Crank Bolts (Stock) 100 FT LBS
99 DA CC R/T
13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
12.96 @103
10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
R/T ported heads
Detroit locker 4:56 gears
Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
Jim
RaceMagnum
Thank you! Looking in the rear index, driveplate is not listed either. For the record, if anyone is looking in their orange 2000 Factory Manual, this torque information is on page 21-410. Yes I plan on using red thread lock on these bolts and the torque converter to flexplate or driveplate bolts as well.
IMG_7370.jpg
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
No problem!
Jim
RaceMagnum
ARP flexplate bolts go to 75ftlbs., red Loctite a must on the flexplate and converter bolts.
This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!
Well I do believe this is the slowest build in this site's history, but the saga continues...
All set yesterday to install the engine and it turns out the sliding inner "boom" length on my Harbor Freight 1 Ton Engine Hoist is not long enough to reach. After setting it on the farthest setting of 1/4 ton, I am about a foot short. I tried as many different options as I could, with the chain length on the engine, and different angles, and could either remove the bumper, or drill some extra holes to extend the boom on the hoist. Removing the bumper doesn't look like it will give me the added room I need. This engine was originally removed using a friend's engine hoist, and I am sure it had a longer boom as it gave me no troubles. He moved out of the state(nice friend right?), so it is not available to me anymore.
Before I get questioned about the pictures below...
1. The Kegger Intake is just on there so I wouldn't possibly scratch the M1.
2. I know the oil filter is damaged a little, but I have another that I am using to break in this engine.
You can see in the picture below, that the rearmost hole on the boom (1 ton) is open, so I should be able to extend the inner it out more, and drill another support bolt hole so the engine can reach the trans and motor mounts when I reinstall this engine again. I know the farther out I go with it, the lower the weight it can take.
As always, thoughts are appreciated, and heckling by 99dart is bound to happen.
IMG_7413.jpg
IMG_7420.jpg
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
So, while in the air on jack stands, I finally installed the "No Longer Available" Kenny Brown Frame Brace. If you need pictures as proof, I can add them tomorrow, but it wasn't all that difficult to install. If I didn't have this one I'd buy the currently available Hypotek Brace.
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
Well Dang! I feel your pain, Corey. Some times it just feels like you can't catch a break. I've done a bunch of different repairs & maintenance on mine this year. I swear I have lost every tool I have used to the engine bay gremlins and then spent forever looking for them.
99 DA CC R/T
13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
12.96 @103
10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
R/T ported heads
Detroit locker 4:56 gears
Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ
It's probably just the angle of the picture. But, it looks like you are almost right where you need to be to lower it in place. Are you doing the install alone? That makes it hard to do. Stick with it, you'll get it.
99 DA CC R/T
13.97@100 w/modded kegger & ported TB
12.96 @103
10:8-1 .30 over forged bottom end
R/T ported heads
Detroit locker 4:56 gears
Built 46RE MSaine 3500 stall Ultra Billet
http://imgur.com/a/lOVuZ
It looks like you're right where you need to be. Not sure why you need a longer boom length. I did it on the shortest settings.
2003 CC
360 Swapped, FRP Tuned, 2.02 EQ Heads, 210XP cam, HS 1.7 RR's, Fastman 52mm TB, Mopar 2bbl M1, Mopar/PPH Headers, 2.5" True Dual, X-Pipe, Hooker AeroChambers, Hi Flow Cats, MSD Coil, Cloyes Double Roller Chain, JGC fan, 180F T-stat, Mopar Valve covers, K&N FIPK, PATC 2800 Stall, Martin Saine VB, Mildly built trans, 4.10 gears.
249 HP/322 TQ FRP Tune (Old build. New build TBD)
12.35 @ 109 (150 Shot)
#1222
r/DodgeDakota
When I lower it the engine is still about 12" from the trans. I have my neighbor helping. Too much of a swing angle and even when lowering it, can't get the engine closer to the trans. I even moved the hook on the engine chain more towards the front, as this droops the rear of the engine, still no dice.
Yes it is the angle of the picture. So close, but yet so far. I'll get it in soon. I have tried with the motor mounts installed and without them installed. Did either of you remove the front bumper?It looks like you're right where you need to be. Not sure why you need a longer boom length. I did it on the shortest settings.
If I would have purchased the 2 Ton Hoist, the boom extends from 42" to 61.75". This 1 Ton Hoist has boom adjustment of 34" to 45".
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
I have a Westward engine crane that I bought years ago for around $750. Can't believe that they now cost close to $1400. https://www.grainger.com/product/WES...rchQuery=3ZC72
Regardless, I still removed the bumper to pull and install the engine. You may want to try removing the bumper as it should provide a little more room.
Just take the bumper off. You're already on the 500 pound setting anyway, you don't wanna see what happens when those things give way lol...
Jim
RaceMagnum
DRTC #1176
2000 Bright White CC (1/553)
Dyno'ed 07/05/13 (126,000 Miles) 230 Hp / 308 Tq
14.6 @ 93 mph (2.18 60 ft.), 4130 lbs.(1/2 tank gas)
Truck Pictures --> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v9...Clough/Dakota/
1985 Kawasaki GPz550
2003 SV650S (Race)
1973 W100 Powerwagon
Mater: I don’t need to know where I’m goin’, I just need to know where I been!
Would you hurry up and get this solved! I'm tired of seeing my truck in pieces!!!! Said kidding of course!