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Thread: Dakota Power Brake Booster Adapter 1997-1998

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    98Dak408's Avatar
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    Default Dakota Power Brake Booster Adapter 1997-1998

    I’ve been working on a prototype adapter to allow for the clean and easy installation of the 1999-2004 Dakota power brake booster in the 1997-1998 Dakota. Doing so provides more room between the engine and booster, as well as providing an additional 43.7% of booster force to the brakes. The mounting bolt pattern is different between the two styles of boosters as the 1999-2004 is wider with an offset upward and to the side. This adapter makes sure you install the brake pedal rod straight and true for optimum performance without binding or misalignment.

    This product is now available for sale: http://stores.hi-potek.com/hipotek-d...ter-1997-1998/

    BEFORE

    Original 1997-1998 Dakota Power Brake Booster: Single 11.50” diaphragm 9.25# ~ diaphragm area: 103.82 sq/in

    AFTER:

    1999-2004 Dakota Power Brake Booster: Dual 9.75” diaphragm 13.5# ~ diaphragm area: 149.23 sq/in


    The Adapter:





    Last edited by 98Dak408; 04-04-2016 at 10:21 AM.

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    9t9-5.2's Avatar
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    Nice piece!

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

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    Thanks!

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    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Git-R-Done Richard. I'm having a set of 1 3/4" long tubes fabbed up for my 408 build and could use the extra room.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

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    kota360's Avatar
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    Richard, you are a mechanical wizard.
    Keep up the excellent work.
    Edelbrock Magnum heads, Harland-Sharp 1:6 RR, Jomar Performance Ultra-Lite Stud Girdle, SoutheastPerformance Sheet Metal Valve Covers, Custom Hyd Roller from Reed Cams, Mopar M-1 2 Brl Intake, Hughes Stage 1 TB, JBA SS Headers, Jacobs Electronics Pro Street Ignition System and Wires, MBRP 'Cuda Style Exhaust, Western Chassis 2" drop front and rear, Edelbrock IAS Shocks, Terry DeLong Pro-Glass Shaker Hood

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    You should go ahead and make an adaptor plate for manual brakes.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    A manual brake adapter would have my attention. I would even do a deposit to confirm my interest if needed.
    Quote:
    Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert
    Nope. No engineers here. We're all just a buncha dum red neck monkeys scratching our asses and flinging poo at each other, wondering why our magnums are slow, expensive, and can't get good MPGs

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    Git-R-Done Richard. I'm having a set of 1 3/4" long tubes fabbed up for my 408 build and could use the extra room.
    I've been working on this for a little while now and it should be available soon Scott.

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    Richard, you are a mechanical wizard.
    Keep up the excellent work.
    Thanks Ken. You are too kind.

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    You should go ahead and make an adaptor plate for manual brakes.
    A manual brake adapter would have my attention. I would even do a deposit to confirm my interest if needed.
    What are people using for master cylinders and pushrods with this modification?

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Check on my hydro thread. I'm using a grade 8 bolt as my pushrod. I'm also using the stock pedal but it's been modified quite a bit. I had to drill a hole in the firewall to move the MC up in order to correct the pushrod angle. This is with a gem II MC that I put the stock spring in.

    There's a lot of work needed in order to make a manual setup that performs well and doesn't require you to stand on the brakes.













    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Keep in mind I'm using a bore closest to stock that I felt comfortable with pedal effort wise. The reason for doing this is because wilwood told me that there would be a good chance that I would run into ABS issues if I go with a lot smaller diameter bore. This caused me to go with a 7.1:1 ratio pedal. If you ran a smaller bore then you could possibly get away with angling the MC and not drilling a hole in the firewall. That would also require a different shaped reservoir.
    Last edited by Sick 660r; 04-03-2016 at 09:20 PM.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    it's been several years ago now, but I swapped in the newer style booster into the old big block truck, which was a 98. It bolted right in for me without a problem? Maybe I didn't know any better back then and didn't check the angle of the push rod, but the brakes worked fine for me. (doesn't mean I did it the right way or best way for longevity either....It wasn't much longer after that I junked it all and went with a full manual master
    --Tom
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    Interested in the "increased boost effort" how do we know that? is there a published number somewhere that says what the boost assist is?
    --Tom
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    It wasn't much longer after that I junked it all and went with a full manual master
    Which master cylinder did you use?

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    Interested in the "increased boost effort" how do we know that? is there a published number somewhere that says what the boost assist is?
    The available engine vacuum is applied to the surface area of the diaphragm to create force. The 99-04 diaphragm has a surface area of 149.23 sq in. The 97-98 diaphragm has a surface area of 103.82 sq in. 149.23/103.82 = 1.437. Therefore there is a 43.7% increase in applied force from one to the other.

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    Fair enough. is it a dual diaphram or something? the newer style is a smaller diameter, but thicker. If I had a line pressure gauge to measure PSI at the caliper, I'd love to be able to give real world numbers to back these mathematicals up

    edit...reread the captions to the pictures. the smaller diameter is a dual diaphram cool to know.

    As for the manual I went with, it was a master power 1" bore dual circuit master. "generic mopar" cast iron master. I wasn't truely happy with that set up either because mathematically I had calculated that I would have the pedal effort I wanted with a 7/8" bore (on stock 98 calipers/drums) but the guy on the phone who was "smarter than me" said I would absoultely need a 1" bore to ensure I had enough stroke volume to operate the disc brakes.

    damn pedal was rock hard with no travel but I was able to stop the truck well enough. It just required more leg press than I really wanted it to.
    --Tom
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Stock pedal ratio?


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    me? I think so. I don't remember now. I just slapped that shit together and drove the snot out of it. either the brakes or the hydro clutch was modified, I drilled a hole and added a pin to attach the pushrod to...but now I don't remember which one was modified, and which one I ran stock
    --Tom
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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert View Post
    me? I think so. I don't remember now. I just slapped that shit together and drove the snot out of it. either the brakes or the hydro clutch was modified, I drilled a hole and added a pin to attach the pushrod to...but now I don't remember which one was modified, and which one I ran stock
    Yes you lol. The pedal effort sucks with the stock MC even after changing the pedal ratio. I think 7/8" would be perfect for my setup. Maybe one day I'll change master cylinders but the gen II was free and it's working fine right now.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    The HiPoTek 1997-1998 Dakota Power Brake Booster Adapter is now available for sale: http://stores.hi-potek.com/hipotek-d...ter-1997-1998/
    Last edited by 98Dak408; 04-05-2016 at 01:12 AM.

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    ScojoDak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98Dak408 View Post
    The HiPoTek 1997-1998 Dakota Power Brake Booster Adapter is now available for sale: http://stores.hi-potek.com/hipotek-d...ter-1997-1998/
    Linky no worky.
    If you haven't lived for something, you'll die for nothing.

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    Linky no worky.
    Fixed.

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    Any idea if this adapter will also work on the 91-96 dodge Dakota trucks?
    This signature has been deleted thanks to photobucket!

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    Any idea if this adapter will also work on the 91-96 dodge Dakota trucks?
    The ‘87-96 bolt pattern looks like it may be the same as the ’97-98, but the ’87-96 push-rod length looks shorter than the ’97-04 push-rod length. However, the ’87-96 uses a shorter pushrod since it sits directly against the firewall and the ’97-04 uses a spacer. Therefore, the ’99-04 booster with the longer push-rod may time out correctly with the adapter/spacer in the ’87-96 vehicle. Or, perhaps a minor dimension modification to the adapter/spacer with allow it to fit. I’ll have to look into this a little more and may acquire the ’87-96 booster to check. I recently changed the booster in my ’95 a few months ago but at that time I just wanted to get my daily driver back on the road.

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