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Thread: LS swap Dakota R/T update

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    Default LS swap Dakota R/T update

    I can put this in engine modifications because the "builds and jackstand queens" section doesn't apply.

    I put an LS engine in a 1999 Dakota R/T about 3 years ago (October, 2012), using my own fabrication for motor mounts and transmission mount. The base was an LY6 6.0 engine and 6l90 automatic transmission from a 2007 GMC Sierra.

    It took about 6 weeks, and when it was done and tuned, it ran 13.4 at 103 consistently the only time it went to a track.

    Next, I added hydroboost brakes from the same GMC Sierra. The truck already had rear disc conversion (also my own fabrication), using GM metric calipers. The hydroboost added huge stopping ability on the stock front and GM metric rear calipers, with 11 inch rotors all the way around. In my opinion, I would do this before trying to go to bigger calipers or rotors. It's pretty easy.

    After about 2 years, it was time to step up. I removed the variable valve timing (VVT) from the engine, and chose an LS9 cam and LS3 intake. After tuning, the truck is estimated to make about 450 flywheel horsepower and would probably run 12.5 at 110 or so. This truck has not been back to the track, because it just hasn't. But HP tuners is pretty accurate at calculating fuel and efficiency, so those numbers are probably pretty accurate.

    The truck has 40,000 miles on it since the work was done, and runs great. It has not had any repairs since it was built.

    Here are a few pictures.

    Picture of the finished truck. Yes, that is a carbon fiber hood. Note the Durango that I am building now, sitting in the garage.















    Rear disc conversion.




    Hydroboost unit in place.




    As it sits now with LS3 intake.





    How about a 5-lug conversion to use better wheels? I haven't shopped for wheels yet. Had to start on the Durango, which isn't cheap.




    Twin turbos mocked up. No plans to put them on yet.

    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    y2krtaf's Avatar
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    Love it!

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    My mom always told me if you don't have anything nice to say.....
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

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    Looks like a cluster fuck took a dump in your engine bay. Love the copper plumbing....LOL
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    Attached Images Attached Images
    11.27 @ 118.23
    2017 NM Mopar Challenge Series Champion

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark View Post
    My mom always told me if you don't have anything nice to say.....
    Amen! I guess Dave said fuck it I'm grown and can say whatever I want Though I was thinking the exact same thing he just posted I give kudos for the effort, but it's just like him putting AN connectors on the fuel pump just to use rubber hose and clamps
    2000 CC
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    niebs's Avatar
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    why do the work of the swap just to use a stock ls?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lonesoldier79 View Post
    Amen! I guess Dave said fuck it I'm grown and can say whatever I want Though I was thinking the exact same thing he just posted I give kudos for the effort, but it's just like him putting AN connectors on the fuel pump just to use rubber hose and clamps
    Anyone can cobble up a slow piece of crap.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Quote Originally Posted by casias View Post
    Next, I added hydroboost brakes from the same GMC Sierra. The truck already had rear disc conversion (also my own fabrication), using GM metric calipers. The hydroboost added huge stopping ability on the stock front and GM metric rear calipers, with 11 inch rotors all the way around. In my opinion, I would do this before trying to go to bigger calipers or rotors. It's pretty easy.
    what do you mean by hydro boost?

    I also love the swap, not the prettiest or cleanest, but it's quick no doubt.


    Mods - TB Spacer, Short Throw Dipstick, Performance Auto Zone Intake "0.30 over bore", R/T Cam, Performance Chip, Radiator Delete

    Rev limiter? that's what valve springs are for!

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    Mark's Avatar
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    Osee, don't drink the koolade.
    1999 R/C Solar yellow

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by Osee View Post
    what do you mean by hydro boost?

    I also love the swap, not the prettiest or cleanest, but it's quick no doubt.
    Likely quick, but hardly necessary, and also old-news and cliche (and boring).

    Hydroboost is a system that uses powersteering to run the brakes, instead of a normal brake booster. It seems to be a love or hate thing depending on who you talk to. I could see Stacy David using it on Heavy Metal, but on a Dakota, not really necessary - unless you do a swap that requires it for connection or space reasons (or personal preference).

    2003 Black CC R/T, 1 of (less than) 376

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post
    Looks like a cluster fuck took a dump in your engine bay. Love the copper plumbing....LOL
    Like I said. The players on this site are as follows:

    1) One runs a carb because he can't figure out EFI
    2) The one with that ugly-ass square thing from the 70's is trying to convince people not to look into better braking?
    3) One is confused by rubber.

    This site is a dog. How many times in a month can you guys argue about intake manifolds. Really.
    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    It's not a 6.0 LS ya dumb fuck, did it come out of a car? NO!
    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

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    Sick 660r's Avatar
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    Great work. Your brackets and locations for bolts/screws are wonderful. You may want to consider black zip ties, they blend in better.


    Quote Originally Posted by BluRT00 View Post
    Part your red sport out and buy a gen 2. Problem solved.

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    The childish bullshit should be purged from this thread.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLKDAK View Post
    It's not a 6.0 LS ya dumb fuck, did it come out of a car? NO!
    FYI, the 6.0 was available in the 07 Seirra.

    "Excuse me if I have some place in my mind, where I go time to time"

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sick 660r View Post
    Great work. Your brackets and locations for bolts/screws are wonderful. You may want to consider black zip ties, they blend in better.
    ?. Black zip ties are too expensive. I surprised you didn't mention the 4 inch PVC pipe and toilet flange intake. I spent hours on the Home Depot tech hotline trying to figure out the correct air/diameter ratio.

    Quote Originally Posted by BLKDAK View Post
    It's not a 6.0 LS ya dumb fuck, did it come out of a car? NO!
    With the internet at you fingertips, and you can't google LY6? Maybe too many letters for you.
    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    question: you're touting the greatness of the hydroboost on the stock 11" rotors and stock calipers. have you done back to back hard stops, or just 1 hard stop?

    The stock brakes work fine. Once. adding hydroboost, your stock brakes will still work fine. Once. The weakness of the stock brakes comes in their ability to absorb and dissipate heat. (for those who don't know, that's how brakes work. they take the kinetic energy of a vehicle in motion and convert it into heat energy. The bigger the brakes, the better or faster they can convert kinetic into heat, but the design must also be able to dissipate that heat, otherwise, parts will heat soak, and once they are heat soaked, they cannot convert energies anymore)

    Adding hydroboost still leaves you with stock 11" rotors, so I'm curious to see what kind of braking improvements you've made, confirmed with actual testing, not "the tuner guesstimated power" answers.
    --Tom
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filthy Filbert View Post
    question: you're touting the greatness of the hydroboost on the stock 11" rotors and stock calipers. have you done back to back hard stops, or just 1 hard stop?

    The stock brakes work fine. Once. adding hydroboost, your stock brakes will still work fine. Once. The weakness of the stock brakes comes in their ability to absorb and dissipate heat. (for those who don't know, that's how brakes work. they take the kinetic energy of a vehicle in motion and convert it into heat energy. The bigger the brakes, the better or faster they can convert kinetic into heat, but the design must also be able to dissipate that heat, otherwise, parts will heat soak, and once they are heat soaked, they cannot convert energies anymore)

    Adding hydroboost still leaves you with stock 11" rotors, so I'm curious to see what kind of braking improvements you've made, confirmed with actual testing, not "the tuner guesstimated power" answers.
    I did this well over a year ago. I needed to make a little room for the downpipe from the driver's side turbo. However, it turned out to be surprisingly effective. But the biggest improvement was adding the rear disc conversion many, many years ago.

    I drive this truck really hard. Would I use these brakes on a road course? No. Would I spend a lot of money to add an inch of rotor and extra caliper size to dissipate heat in daily street-playing? No.

    But, while the hydroboost does not improve the maximum abilities of the braking system, it does allow for much more line pressure at maximum push.

    So. My recommendation above....Skip the expensive big-brake upgrade, go for the cheaper and easier hydroboost....for daily street-playing.

    I will be doing hydroboost on the Durango as well, so I can do the "numbers" for you, if you like. But it will be a few months.
    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    With the internet at you fingertips, and you can't google LY6? Maybe too many letters for you.[/QUOTE]

    Yeah. It's not an LS. LS are Gen 3. LY6 is a Gen 4 engine.
    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by BLKDAK View Post
    With the internet at you fingertips, and you can't google LY6? Maybe too many letters for you.
    Yeah. It's not an LS. LS are Gen 3. LY6 is a Gen 4 engine.[/QUOTE]

    Dude. Stop already. Ahahahaha! Really. You're too much!
    1999 Dakota LS-swap. Fastest NA 5.9/6.0 full-weight CC. 12.76 at 109.9.
    2000 Durango ZL1 AWD.

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    Please do. I'd love to see an unbiased test. 5 hard stops back to back from 60-0 with stock brakes. Repeat after your hydro boost swap. I'd like to see if there's any reduction in stopping distance on the first hard stop when everything is cold. It'd also be interesting to see if the proclaimed increase in line pressure helps resist fade.

    Would also be neat to see maximum possible line pressure with stock vacuum booster and with hydro post.

    I like seeing real numbers to support claims of increased performance over 'feels better' or 'should run'
    --Tom
    **Photobucket can suck my nut**

    I'm a douchebag

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    Quote Originally Posted by casias View Post
    Yeah. It's not an LS. LS are Gen 3. LY6 is a Gen 4 engine.
    Dude. Stop already. Ahahahaha! Really. You're too much![/QUOTE]

    Have you considered using PEX for your fuel lines?
    EDIT: Sorry, might be too confusing for you..Copper FTW.
    Last edited by Adobedude; 02-08-2016 at 04:02 PM.
    11.27 @ 118.23
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    Gen 1 was the SBC
    Gen 2 was the LT1 and only a few parts will interchange with the SBC
    Gen 3 engines were a big list and no parts interchange
    Gen 4 is still around in a couple of applications and a few parts interchange with the Gen 3, but you can't run a Gen 4 on a Gen 3 PCM with out a bunch of money
    Gen 5 is the new engine and 1 is an LT1
    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adobedude View Post

    Have you considered using PEX for your fuel lines?
    EDIT: Sorry, might be too confusing for you..Copper FTW.
    The ethanol in the fuel would eat the pex ..... ask casias, I am the ONLY DIPSHIT in the english speaking world who couldnt figure out why I had fumes but no leaks. I fixed it now after my little to no IQ found that high dollar CPE lines suck just as much as PEX - I guess I can take solace in the fact that the fuel system now is worth more than an LY6 swap

    As for brakes - I guess it takes a nasa engineer to figure out that clamping force is clamping force. Clamping force is increased with surface area and pressure. If they could stop a hellcat or Z06 with a $5.00 braking system they probably would have???? OHHHHH and more surface area helps dissipate heat, but I digress....
    Last edited by WhiteRT; 02-08-2016 at 04:38 PM.


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